Beginner, looking for a sanity check

[HTL2001]

Hello everyone

I've never done watercooling before, but I've been doing a bit of research and wanted to do a quick sanity check on what I've decided/seen so far.

First, I've already bought my base system, keeping watercooling in mind.
Case: NZXT Switch 810 (PSU mounted with intake from bottom)
CPU: AMD 8320
Graphics: GTX 680 (EVGA 02G-P4-2680-KR)
MB: Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 rev 1.2?

I want to do CPU+GPU, but after seeing how hot my NB gets even at low load (by feel, see below) I'm considering doing something about that, maybe just an aftermarket sink though? I'm also considering making the back fan on the case an intake unless theres some issue with doing this.
What lead me to check my NB temp was the reported temps... not sure what those correspond to but spraying an air duster at the NB or MOSFET heatsink doesn't budge those temps, but the SB did seem to change the first temp (that one's always pretty cool anyway though). The 3rd one is always about 12C above CPU reported temp, and matches almost all spikes. The 2nd one is a few C above the 3rd at low load, more flat, and as load increases it starts to match the CPU temp more until at peak its a few C below the CPU temp.

First, for the graphics card... I've seen that the "-KR" means it has a certain warranty, so that means the board is the same as the 02G-P4-2680, right? I want to get a full cover for the card.
For CPU, I hear most of the blocks have very similar performance, have not settled on one yet.

For radiator, I was thinking the alphacool 3x140 60mm thick radiator, I'm going for quiet operation and this seems like a good option.
I've seen on this forum though that the case I have might require some fiddling to get it to fit - would that be with the case itself or the radiator?
I'm not planning on push/pull, just pull. With the low fins per inch, I shouln't have to worry too much about fan's pressure rating right? I was thinking simple low-noise ones like http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103077

I know there's other places in my case to mount additional radiators, like on the bottom or some sort of rigging in the front (I plan on removing the top drive bay), whould this be advisable at all, perhaps as an alternative to fitting the 140mm rad in the top and instead going with 120.

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[Whaler_99]

First off, with the S810, check the spacing on the 140mm fan mounts versus your rad mounts - 20mm versus 15mm? I know NZXT just released a new top plate for the S810 with 15mm spacing on the 140mm fan mounts. You can contact support to get one shipped out.

For doing the CPU+GPU cooling, definitely need the 420 in the roof... and maybe something in the base as well. I cannot click your link to the fans, I always get sent to the .ca site. Grrr... but, with the low fin count, yes, you can slower fans, but I would look more at static pressure. I am going to be using Corsair SP120 units in a push config. They even come with a 7V connector, to run them even quieter if your temps will handle it...

Whaler

 

[HTL2001]

I just contacted NZXT and they are sending the 15mm spacing top. The alphacool radiator is hard to find that info on but it seems like its 15mm from one forum post, and the replacement top is free anyway so that's nice.

All that'ts left really is the NB/MOSFET question, should I be okay with this (ca) and this (ca) and my rear fan as intake? Could I get away with just the NB sink and stock MOSFET?


PS CA link for fans in first post

 

[Whaler_99]

Those fans, not to sure about... The thing with a rad is you want a fan with good static pressure, not so much high CFM. The low fin count allows you to run such a fan, slower. But, you can always try those fans out, see how they work. If you wanted to get a couple more degrees off, then maybe something like the SP120 as a push might be better? I will let those with more experience comment on that.

As for your mobo cooling - I have experienced many that get very hot to the touch. Been burned on occasion. The problem with the heat sinks you linked, I don't know if you will be able to know 100% if they will fit. But, they aren't to pricey to try.

Rule of thumb, intake air from front/bottom and exhaust rear/top. Leave your rear fan as an exhaust fan. Run two fans in the front, maybe the Corsair AF series, designed for air flow. This will help get cool air from the front, blown across the mobo and out the back. Also, the drive caddies in the S810 can have fans attached to them and angled, to point more directly at the mobo. That might also help.

Cheers,
Whaler

 

[HTL2001]

SP120s are 120mm fans... shouldn't I get 140mm ones?

Pic makes it look like the NB sink would fit fine, just that one PCIE 1x slot would be unusable unless it was a REALLY short card. [pay no attention to the RAM, that's been corrected]

Should I even bother with the MOSFET block though?


EDIT: also I don't think I could fit fans in push config on that radiator (getting the 60mm thick one)

 

[Whaler_99]

My bad. Yes, you are right, SP only come in 120mm. the AF's come in 140mm... With a 60mm rad you are stuck with only doing pull. One of the reasons I got a EX360 - 35.5mm so I can do push/pull and then a RX240 at the base. The AF140 is a good pull fan, and includes a step down adapter, so you can run it at 7V and have it even quieter. Unless you are really attached to those Blue LED ones.

I don't know, honestly, if it would make a difference or not, using the blocks on your mosfets and NB.

For some help on reference design or not for your video card, check http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/ and see what you can find. It looks the non -KR version is supported by a few.

The only fiddling I am having to worry about with the 360 in the case is the obstructed airflow by that plate in the 5.25" bay. I would assume it would restrict even more on your rad. Going to take a dremel to mine and cut out some excess...

Whaler

 

[Deejeta]

I put a rs360 push/pull(3x140 fans in the roof) and a rx240 as well in push pull in the bottom. These cases are f'n brilliant.
Fill the rig with low rpm fans.
How far are you wanting to push this build in terms of overclocking? Just watch the volts and your NB etc should be ok. But if you have the cash and want a sweet looking loop shining through that window, more blocks the better. As long as its tidy and thought out.
Watch and re-watch TTL's watercooling review on the case man.

 

[S_I_N]

funny I know lots of folks who have put 60mm thick rads in the roof of their 810 and have done push/pull. Myself included. I have the Phobya G Changer 420mm x 60mm thick rad using 25mm fans and it fits yeah its tight and I had to cut a hole in the top 5.25 bay for better airflow but it can be done. There is 90mm of room between the underside of the top and the 5.25 bays. The only thing that would not allow fans on the underside of the rad is huge heatsinks on the mofsets on the upper edge of the mobo.

 

[HTL2001]

Not attached to those fans at all. The AF ones have much lower static pressure from the AS ones... I'll probably look around more. Finding and comparing fans by static pressure is annoying.

I might consider push/pull but for now I'm going to set it up pull only.

My intentions are for moderate overclocking... was under the impression I could do it with just that rad. If not I'll either go up to push pull or add a radiator in the floor.

I attached my first rough sketch, trying to figure out what fittings besides standard ones I will need

 

[Whaler_99]

I like the scetch, but that is one heck of a long run from the res to the rad.

Whaler

 

[Whaler_99]

Here is a review from Anandtech on a bunh of 120mm fans with a link to a previous one.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6391/120mm-radiator-fan-roundup-part-2-fan-harder

Whaler

 

[HTL2001]

Thanks for the fan reference. I also saw http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?...=Fans&type_sub=Ultra Quiet Fan&model=AK-FN062 which looks good, but PWM speed control means I need a separate fan controller to lower speeds right?

Yes, that is a long run from the pump to rad, but I don't know what else to do about that. Rad in a different orientation wouldn't work because of clearances (unless I do cut the top of the 5.25" bay, but that would still be pretty long and I'd have another fairly long run from rad --> cpu).

EDIT why did this have to go through a moderator? Was it the link?

 

[Whaler_99]

I am pretty sure a PWM control means for connecting to say a mobo header (4 PIN) that can control based on say temps. Typically though the 4 Pin connector can be connected to 3 Pin headers. You then just dont get the control function. A fan controller itself works by increasing or decreasing the voltage to the fan, which in turn speeds it up or slows it down.

To lower fan speeds on a fan you either need a fan controller, to be able to lower the voltage down from 12V, or if you have a PWM fan and connector, use some sort of software. Some mother boards have PWM headers, but are completly automated, based on temps, and don't provide any controls.

I am getting a fan controller to run all my fans so I can run them slow=quiet when not stressing the system, and crank them up a bit when I need the extra cooling.

Placement of your res pretty much dictates your runs I guess....

Whaler

 

[HTL2001]

Okay good that I can still just control with voltage.

What position would you recommend for the res? I thought it was supposed to be pump at lowest point and res right before pump. I have seen some setups that go pump --> bay res but I'm not sure that's the best?

 

[Whaler_99]

From what I gather... You want to make sure the Intake of your pump is connected to the Outlet of the res - that way less worry about the pump running dry, which is bad. But, the pump does not need to be at the lowest point. Many res that go in the optical drives include a pump, which is higher up then say GPU Block and bottom rad.

I will upload my diagram for you to look at. Also, do a google images search - lots of pics for ideas.

Whaler

 

[HTL2001]

Yea I was considering pump > cpu > rad even with my sketch. I wanted to use the mcp655 because of the reviews I've seen, but I'll look into a bay res combo. Do they make good 1 bay versions, because I kinda wanted to keep the hotswap drive (it'd let me remove the 2nd drive tray and keep my one hard drive, mounting the ssd anywhere)

 

[HTL2001]

This made me rethink my placement of a few things...

http://i.imgur.com/oopcX.png for full resolution

Basically this gets me to only 1 90 deg. adapter and the rest regular fittings, and this one I would be comfortable using rotary (the old long run to rad I wouldn't have been due to long tube bending it slightly which can make rotaries leak). In the event I wanted to add a rad on the bottom, I could run the GPU out to that, and into the res from the bottom port (using this res)


EDIT: preliminary part list:
CPU block - Koolance 380A
GPU - Heatkiller
Radiator - Alphacool 140mm x3 UT60
Reservoir
Pump
Silver Coil
Tubing
Fittings (rad, cpu, gpu)
90deg fitting for res (2nd res fitting left as included barb)
Fan x3
Fan controller/temp display (not critical)
Water temp reader (not critical)

 

[Whaler_99]

Looks good. I wouldn't bother with the "in-line" temp reader... Seems a bit gimicky. Monitor your CPU temp to see if you need more or less cooling. Or another rad...

Have you decided on a coolant yet? Most coolants can include biocide and anti corrosive additives so you wouldn't need the silver coil...

UV Blue tubbing, could also get some UV coolant. Don't forget a UV light to help set it off.

 

[HTL2001]

For coolant.... straight distilled water is supposed to be best I hear, and I know someone who's been running DI water + 20%? alcohol for 6 years [no idea why he still runs that rig for that long but that's besides the point] with no issues. I was thinking a more pure DI water w/ that coil (the tubing also has biocide built in)


I did want something in the water reading temps if I get that controller... but now I'm thinking more this in the res http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...itting_Plug_-_2-Pin_-_Black_Nickel_71141.html

Also, added http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9..._Nano_Aluminum_Thermal_Compound_-_5_Gram.html

EDTI: almost forgot
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...orged_Copper_Northbridge_Heatsink_CNB-S1.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9...Forged_Copper_MOSFET_Heatsink_-_Gigabyte.html

 

[HTL2001]

Well, its all assembled, and is working nicely. However I'm coming back to the NB temps. Prior to installing the loop, I got an IR temperature reader and checked my NB and MOSFET temps, which were 57C/60C idle/load for NB and 46C/50C for MOSFET. Now, NB is about 75C/78C and MOSFET is about 51C. I'm thinking of getting an Antec Spotcool for them since I've had no luck finding a sink that will fit them. Contributing to these temps is, unfortunately, the rear exhaust fan was blocking the radiator barbs so I had to remove it.

build pics: http://imgur.com/a/5iAbl#0