800D Water Cooling Build Question

[mrkatz]

Hello.

I would appricate some help on this subject
I have a picture here:

I wonder if this is a valid loop
take a look the flow direction this is the thing that worries me, I see that everybody goes from up to bottom. I am going from the bottom starting with the res and then pump and then from the bottom of EK FC Bridge connecting gpu's to rad then the CPU, then the second RAD and then the res again to complete the loops

is this okay? or I should go like this:

thnx alot for your answer
and sorry for the 8 years old drawing and english, obviously it is not my native language.

 

[airdeano]

welcome to the OC3D forums,

loop order is not a concern other than to make sure the pump gets 100% flow
of coolant. other than that, we fall to the asthetics of the tube routing.

but for another opinion, that single 120 radiator isnt helping that much and
generally adds more clutter, tubing whoas and cost to the performance gain it
will add.

800D with a 240 in the basement will be a much added performaer over the lil
the 120 can do. plus it is out of the way and can house the pump and 240 without
added clutter up top. many 800D images with that format.

 

[SeekaX]

the 120 rad is kinda pointless. put another 360 in the bottom maybe?

 

[SavageCupcake]

^^ as airdeano said, I'd drop the 120mm rad and try and get a 240 in somewhere such as the bottom of the case

 

[mrkatz]

I have a 240 rad ready
but the problem is with this case it is much harder than I thought to take the lower cage out
need some modding and unfortunately I do not have the tools to do it.
I mean, you need to take 6 rivets out, and then use a drimel or some kind of tool to cut the bottom of the case to make room for air to flow in. and you need to buy a mesh or something and to cover the sharp edges of the cut.
unfortunately I live in Israel and it is pretty hard to find those stuff in here. everything have to be shipped from somewhere else.
very expansive.

 

[Cru]

do you already have the 800d?
if not, the switch 810 could be an option. it's quite easy to mount a 240 in the bottom there

 

[mrkatz]

I already own the 800D, it was the easiest WC installation case available in israel, I mean without any modding you can fit the 360 rad.
but I don't understand why they made it so hard to take the hard drive cage.
I mean I have dual Asus GTX 660 Ti, and i7 3770k, I wonder if one 360 rad will do a better job than the Noctua NHD14 that I have right now.
What is your opinion?
I shouldn't put the 120 rad there?
and just wait till I get a dremel and make the cut at the bottom?
I am planning on installing it next week when I get the EK FC Bridge

 

[Cru]

how thick is that 360 rad?

 

[airdeano]

i wittled and cut and constructed all kinds of items to make the 800D a better
compatible case and was very disappointed. tom's even commented on how it wasnt
really a best case that corsair could have designed. their answer is the 900D.
to make it usable (and using newer tech (+1)) use the fattest 360 your roof and
motherboard can handle and call it done. with the limited amount of modding you
might be able to do, it'll be futile..

to be honest, find someone that wants an 800D sell it and opt for an easier case,
but again, they all will need modifications (not as bas as the 800D) to fill with proper
radiators.

 

[mrkatz]

Couldn't find any good Water cooling cases in Israel. and ordering a case is mental. too expansive.
MCRx20-QP "Quiet Power" Radiator Series, 360. this is the rad.
also a 240 same series rad, unusuable because there's no space, but I think in a month of so I, I ordered the Dremel 4000, some 240 rad template, and a 240 rad grill, soo I am gonna mod this case to fit another 240 rad.

 

[airdeano]

do you already have the QP radiator?
what fans are you looking at?

then mod away, id gather as much intel about 240 in the basement (many youtube
vids, guides and Corsair 800D images on google) it wasnt hard to get the lower
cage out. the hot swap cage was a PITA and the midplate will need some bracing.

 

[mrkatz]

Alright I think to make things clear I will post all the component that I bought:
Swiftech Radiator - MCR320 Quiet Power Series Triple 120mm
Swiftech Radiator - MCR220 Quiet Power Series Dual 120 mm - Black
Swiftech MCP35X-H Pump
Dual EK DCII 670 Full cover Water block fitted for GTX 660 Ti
Bitspower Water Tank Z-Multi 150 - POM
EK Supermacy
Black ICE GTX Gen TWo XTREME rad 120 mm
Noctua NF-P12 x 5 fans
EK FC Bridge 3 Dual slot Parellel

of course alot of comperession fitting and rotary bla bla

I did buy a dremel and a rad grill to fit the bottom case, now I will have to wait for it to arrive to start modding the case to fit the 240 rad at the bottom
the question is:
how hard do you think it is going to be to install the loop now, with the 360 rad on top, and 120 rad instead of the exhaust fan , and disassamble the loop later to cut the bottom and put the other rad inside.
please write your opinion because next week I would like to start building this mini beast.
and now I can

 

[alpenwasser]

how hard do you think it is going to be to install the loop now, with the 360 rad on top, and 120 rad instead of the exhaust fan , and disassamble the loop later to cut the bottom and put the other rad inside.

If you put enough forethought into your first, temporary loop it should not be all that much work.

In my years of water cooling (~10) I never really had that much of a problem disassembling a loop, and I never paid extra much attention to this when putting it together.

The tricky thing about disassembling a loop is usually draining it and trying to make sure that there isn't some great mess to clean up afterwards. But that's just something you'll have to pay attention to when you actually do it, I can't really make a judgement on that from my desk here .

If you set up your loop so that it's easy to drain and don't open it up at the wrong place (somewhere up top ) you should be fine. Integrate a good drain pipe somewhere at the bottom and then just go about it with care.

 

[paulstung]

Couldn't he use a pair of 120 rads in the bottom, linked together so the air flows in one side and out of the other. I've seen people do it with dual 240's , so why not dual 120's. Or even mount the psu up front in the top drive bays, although that would require modding. But easier to do with basic tools.

 

[leathart123]

put as many rads in as possible

 

[mrkatz]

never mind guys, I modded the case, cut the lower cage out, took a nice piece of the bottom to make a room for the air the flow
all that with just a jigsaw, took like an hr or so, but job well done. fitted 240 rad now at the bottom
thnx all of you for the nice answers.
will post a final photos of the build when it is done

 

[Crion]

It does take some work to get that bottom cage out but it's doable. I think there's a video guide by WestCoastMods on Youtube on how to do it. I'll edit this if i can find it...

EDIT: Found it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9Ovlo1uwk0

 

[mrkatz]

Lol, I already done, took me about an hr, wasn't too difficult.
the there are two rivets which are hard to take out, but just break the head off with a hammer and smooth tool.
the rest was just a breeze with the Jigsaw.
and working without a laser cut template for the rad was abit difficult. but possible
will post pictures tomorrow

 

[alpenwasser]

Yeah a jigsaw can do wonders
Looking forward to pics.

 

[mrkatz]

here are some pictures before putting the water loop in(don't have the EK Bridge yet, waiting for it to arrive via USPS.)

sorry for the bad quality this was taken with my iPhone.

Last but not least:

I have done a mistake there with putting the rad too close to the PSU, but it shouldn't be too difficult too manage all the wires at the back and not at the bottom. this how the case was suppose to be handle anyway I think, cable management wise.
oh and my second graphic card is missing cause I already installed the EK DCII 670 GTX Full cover Waterblock on it.
and I have to admit it fits perfectly on the Asus GTX 660 Ti, the only problem i encountered was with the manual that had the memory located at different position so you have to put the thermal pads as you see them and not by the manual. not too difficult to figure out of course. oh and in the manual they say you have 10 screws to undone, but on the 660 Ti there's only 9. not a big difference.

for a first timer it was a piece of cake. right on.