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Old 15-02-20, 10:15 PM
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UPDATE TIME -

BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 - Quality Difference

This has been a long while coming, but here is an example of what upgrading the Ender 3 with a BIGTREETECH SKY Mini E3 can do. While both models are accurate, you should be able to see the artefacts that the new motherboard can fix.

Add this to the noise difference, and the upgrade is more than worth it for the £30 it costs.

Before:



After:



Upgrade that Creality Made over older Ender 3 models


I forgot to note that Creality has upgraded its Ender 3 models to add the metallic guide into the extruder assembly. Before now the filament fed into plastic, which wore out over time.

Now, this metallic insert should increase the durability of Creality's stock extruder. Nice upgrade.



Misc Upgrades

For starters, I printed this Imperial Extruder knob so I could more easily feed or remove filament into and out of the printer. A must print for anyone who owns a 3D printer like this.



This is how my Filament is connected to the system. I preferred that my Ender 3 was wider than it was tall, and this way filament feeds into the printer in a more direct manner.



Another thing I printed was a set of drawers, which I use to house all of the tools that came with the printer, as well as a few extra parts. Very handy.






New Upgrades

Dual Lead Screw Setup

This upgrade is semi-custom. It takes inspiration from the work of ProperPrinting on Thingiverse, but also contains parts from other makers as I didn't want to compromise the maximum Z-height of my Ender 3.

Some of these models needed a bit of TLC to work, but I hope to make some of my own models so that I can release my own guide for this. I have a few cuts in my fingers to attest to how much material needed to be removed from some of these pieces.

I would have liked to model all the parts myself, but I don't have the time ATM. Solidworks is the software that I know, but you don't use that software outside of big businesses. I'll need to learn something new, perhaps Blender.

Inspiration Links -

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3746653 (primary source)(models don't support anti-backlash lead screw nuts)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1061769 (model source)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3080912 (material removal required to fit my 608ZZ bearings)



Securing the top of the Ender 3's original lead screw. Do the same thing at the other side with the new Lead screw.



Adding the new Z-axis bracket to the Ender 3.




It takes a bit of footering, but there is enough space to get the timing belt on to connect both lead screws.




With some calibration, you can square things up and remove the sag of the X-axis on the Ender 3 and make bed levelling a lot less frequent.

You can now lift the Ender 3 using the X-axis bar and get no sag. which is something that you couldn't risk before. I still don't recommend doing that, but the extra rigidity speaks for itself.

The only downside of this mod is that the PSU box now has no proper place to stand.

Next Mod

Right, now the PSU looks like this.I need to reconnect the PSU to the Ender 3's frame and find a new way to reduce the noise of the Ender 3's fan.

I have installed a baffler to lower the noise levels, but it only offers limited help.I believe that the fan in there operates on 12V, so I could replace it with a PC fan, perhaps this spare 120mm fan I have. (or I could go for one of those Grey Noctuas... decisions decisions)

This fan is the loudest in the 3D printer right now. It turns on for a while and then off for a while, very annoying...

Model Source for PSU Baffler
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3344508




What's next?

Aside from the PSU fan mod, I really need to learn a new 3D modelling program. This will allow me to design my own parts. Hopefully I will soon have time to dedicate to learning something.
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