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-   -   Gigabyte Triton (https://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=45669)

1355970 12-08-12 03:20 PM

Gigabyte Triton
Introduction to the stock case:

So, the Gigabyte Triton is a PC case from late 2007.

It has a top mounted PSU design that notoriously sucks heat off the CPU heatsink, but the PSU is not to blame. It's common knowledge - for us geeks :D - that with some AMD socket coolers you don't have a choice. You either let them blow the hot air upwards on the PSU, or downwards on the graphics card.

Even the idea of removable hard drive bays sounds crazy with an excess of half a dozen rivets per compartment, but even if you could remove both, the question would arise "What for?". And indeed; with all the bays in place you have 300 millimeters of space, so you can fit all graphics cards, except the monstrous HD 6990s.

Even if you remove all those bays you are only left with roughly 19 centimeters of space, with a single 120 mm fan mount, so if we talk watercooling, even a 200 mm rad is a very remote possibility if you aren't handy with a dremel. There is only one additional fan mount, a 120 mm on the back, so forget having any watercooling that's entirely on the inside, unless it's a low performance Corsair H80. Even if we don't focus on such pricy features like watercooling, we can still find things that this old case lacks of.

Its idea of cable management are clamps awkwardly close to the motherboard, to the point where they are useless, and anyone who got this far in reading will only shrug at the mentioning of a missing CPU socket mounting hole on the motherboard tray, and won't be consoled even the slightest with the three types of high quality, vibration absorbing tool-less drive mounting that's offered.

So why even bother with this case?

Everyone who ever had a Triton knows, that it's an incredibly sturdy construction. It is 440 x 200 x 480 mm, and 8.4 kg (18.5 lbs) compared to 450 x 210 x 485 mm and 7.2 kg (15.9 lbs) which is the Corsair Carbide 300R, a case of similar size, which is slightly larger but still lighter. Even the fact, that after 5 years, 2 motherboards with a dozen other upgrades, and two falls off the table - with all the components entirely intact - it still hasn't got a dent or even a loose screw, proves that it's worth giving this case a chance to continue doing what it was built for, saving it from what would seem to me an early retirement ...

But i would be lying if i'd say there is no sentiment in deciding to prepare this case for the new age of home computing. So let's see what i'm up to:

When i'm done with this case, it will have a sidepanel window, decent cable management, a removable motherboard tray with a mounting hole, support for eSATA, USB 3.0, 2 SSDs, a 240 mm rad (H100 push-pull, or any 50cm rad pull) without compromising any of the 3.5" bays, and more.

Some "before" pictures i took in my "hobby room":

Note 1: This is the right placement of RAM in this particular motherboard. :P
Note 2: I've already removed all the rivets from the front and the top, that's why the front plate looks loosely attached.
Note 3: I'll be replacing the motherboard, RAM, and maybe the CPU cooler too in the next two weeks.

As with all projects, feedback and suggestions are very welcome, and expected! :)

Ru5ty_t00l 12-08-12 04:20 PM

good luck with that
if u r making a window I hope u paint the chassis first.
keep us updated

1355970 12-08-12 04:26 PM

Painting the inside is not one of my priorities, but eventually it will come to that. First i will have to cut almost every surface of the case, which is delicate work, but the steel is strong enough so i don't have to worry about compromising any structural integrity! :D

wassupdoc 14-08-12 09:11 PM

you should de-rivet the rear panel+mb tray and do a reverse-atx mod - meaning the psu would be on the bottom :)

Dandaman91 14-08-12 09:26 PM


Originally Posted by wassupdoc (Post 550053)
you should de-rivet the rear panel+mb tray and do a reverse-atx mod - meaning the psu would be on the bottom :)

I like this idea so for that lol

I think you should paint the interior before cutting a window in as it would beat looking at bits of metal :p

1355970 15-08-12 02:14 AM


Originally Posted by wassupdoc (Post 550053)
you should de-rivet the rear panel+mb tray and do a reverse-atx mod - meaning the psu would be on the bottom :)

Can you read minds or what? :D Currently all rivets are out, and i'm through browsing pictures of almost a thousand PC cases. Not to copy ideas from, but to make sure, what i planned won't be an accidental copy of an already existing case design.

Of course that doesn't mean i don't get inspiration from other cases, like the Zalman Z11 plus. Currently i'm thinking few rows of UV reactive fins on the top and side panels.


First structure, then looks. It would be counterproductive to paint the case before all metalwork is finalized, i'd end up painting twice, or even more often.

The Orange One 15-08-12 09:26 AM

Can't wait for more updates

CPMFW 15-08-12 12:50 PM

good luck with the mod!!!
waiting for updates

1355970 16-08-12 06:33 PM

Thanks to all of you! ^^

Unfortunately it looks like my modding project is on hold for about a month. Apparently the motherboard i want to buy is so new (M5A99X EVO REV2.0), it won't be available at the suppliers until next month (that's a new one, otherwise i usually buy 1-2 year old parts :D). But then again, back in the days i had to wait 8 weeks for a Spire Falconrock II for my Athlon XP 2200+, so that's how things go around here in Middle Europe.

Why is the motherboard so important?

The one i have at the moment couldn't handle the - otherwise completely stable - overclocked CPU for 11 months (955 BE @3,82GHz), and now the VRM mosfets are overheating even with default voltages and multipliers, and this overheating corrupts all the temperature data i gather. Without exact temperature readings, i can't test different airflow characteristics, and the entire design of a (good) case is governed by the location of the fans, you don't just slap them anywhere you like.

However this delay will give my overseas purchases plenty of time to arrive, so once i have my motherboard, there will be hopefully no further delays, and i will be able to finish the whole project within a few weeks.

1355970 10-12-12 09:52 PM

I humbly apologize to everyone who's been wanting to see how this project would turn out. Unfortunately i greatly underestimated the number of stuff i need to buy from abroad. I can't buy 90% of the components in this country, that i would need for this project, and every international delivery comes with great expense, expense that's just not worth "upgrading" an old case.

The specific M3 screws, grommets, a motherboard tray, meshes, watercooling tubes ... nothing, is available at domestic retailers, and if i had everything delivered from abroad, by the time i'd be finished i would have spent enough money on the deliveries themselves, to buy a CM Storm Stryker, or a Corsair 600T which is mind-bogglingly insane!

Even the motherboard i intended to buy got available just 3 weeks ago at local retailers!

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