Urgent help needed!!

denis6902

New member
First i would like to ask if anyone would like to swap 5 Antec 120mm fans with blue leds. I just received my case, a antec 1200 but i am customizing evrything with red, as i dontlike blue, i will swap the 5 antec fans for 5 120 Xilence fans, the red ones.

2- I no idea what is happening with my water cooling system. The mobo cooling is kind of rusting before i set it up, no idea why, its being kept in the box, so very few chances of humidity. Is there a way to ask SCAN to give a new one, or do i have to ask directly to asus tek?

Problems -> The connection in between the barb and the GPU card is leaking all the time, on both block sides. I have tried without plummers tape, with a little bit, with a lot, and also different o-rings tickeness too. By the way, i also tried different barbs, and nothing got better. I did not tight it to much either, it is just firm as it should be, firm and secure. Can someone help me, please!

3- There are lots of bubles and foam on the loops, specially on the resevouir. Its really weird, i never seen a water cooling system with so much foam.

PS - I did not add anything to the coolant, the coolant used is a red Feser F1 coolant.

Anyone one have an idea why is the chipset water block rusting like that, if that is rust i mean. I did not loop the chipset block from the striker II extreme, because i dont want the others to get contaminated with whatever that is.

Please look at the pictures.

Regards

Denis

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FOOOOOOOOOAM

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my watersystem foamed like that when i first got it, it did settle down however, Clean the block u with a bit of scotchbrite mate and then mount it and it should be ok. Also i would think that he tubing is a bit big perhaps but i'm no expert by any means but i wuldn't be running it whilst there are leaks thats for certain.

Good luck
 
Hi mate,

please can you list the components in the loop for us and what size barbs and tubing you are using as it looks like you are using a few different types.

As for the gpu block i have the same one - using the connectors and o-rings provided with no PTFE tape and it works fine.

The foam will be because the pump is managing to draw air in from some where.
 
name='Aqua-Pc's' said:
Hi mate,

please can you list the components in the loop for us and what size barbs and tubing you are using as it looks like you are using a few different types.

As for the gpu block i have the same one - using the connectors and o-rings provided with no PTFE tape and it works fine.

The foam will be because the pump is managing to draw air in from some where.

mobo= striker II extreme

GPU= BFG GTX 260 H2Oc

CPU= Core 2 quad 9550

I did not loop the mobo as it seems to be rusted, i stuck a cottom bud in it, and some yellow stuff stained the cottom, there was a thread forum posted somewhere i saw once, about a guy who had this problem and all his water blocks got corrupted with this stuff, so i did not loop the momo this time.

I used tygon 1/2" tubes supplied with the kit i got from denger den. I used 3/8" from the cpu to the gpu inlet, as the 3/8 was intented to be for the mobo chipset, and i also run out of hose so i used the 3/8" hose from out of the cpu to the inlet of the gpu block.

The leaks are only on the gpu block and it is definetely coming from the block barbs, it is not coming from the connection in between the barb and the hose, i re-re-re-checked all connections, all seems perfect. The leak was only on the block barbs on the gpu as seen on the pictures.

Idealy i need to get more hose as i already drilled and installed a fillport on the top of the case, which would TEE in the inlet of the pump, right? So it would matter so much if the RES is too low, however the RES is the highest in the case, it is higher then the rad. But if i have the fill port on the top of the case, that does not matter that much, right?

Concerning the stuff in the block of the mobo, what can i do? its brand new, and it has not even been used or power on yet, and i am definetely not happy that i will be unable to use it. I actually decided to go for water cooling because the mobo is already water cooling ready, so i thought i might have a go in water-cooling, but i do definetely regret it now, i would have spent much less money going for usual air cooling i suppose.

Will scan provide me a new mobo, or do i have to send it back to asus and wait for results to get another one? or should i ask them to give me free mosfests for the nb, sb etc??? would they do that? whats the procedures?

Kind regards to all helping me out.

PS- i tried yesterday the barb with no PTFE tape and the original O-ring, but it was leaking more then when using the tape. I also tired thicker then the original and it still leaking. I can give another go today.

I will go to B&Q see if can find some distilled water, but how do you warm it up? in a pan? Perhaps they have more tubing there too, but iam afraid here in aberdeen is quite difficult to find this stuff.

See u later!
 
i just spoke to somebody at Scan computers, and they told me i should put to small tubed on each inlet of the mobo and fill it with white vinegar and leave it for 1 hour and a 1/2, and then flush it with distilled water, would that actually help?
 
how can the block be bad? i never over tighten the barbs, i am quite used to barbs and stuff, as i do lots of stuff with air compressions for spray painting, and i am sure i did not over tighten it! What can i do?

I went to b&Q today i managed to get some more hose, and tees but i did not find distilled water anywhere else, i only found and bought De-ionised water, which i am not sure it is the same then distilled water. Is it okey to flush the system with de-ionised water?
 
Get some jubilee clips and use those firstly

Do not use vinegar, just flush with de-ionised water - that's the right stuff.

When you first run the water through the loop it should be without components and you should leave the loop open for a few hours to get the air out.

As for connections, I tend to tighten them up quite a lot actually and ensure you're using PTFE tape and a rubber o-ring on the barb
 
I would not mix tube id.

What happens with a firemans / garden hose with a nozzle on.... you restrict the flow creating greater pressure at that point.

The next two barbs are coping with a greater pressure than the rest and they are leaking. Once the coolant is past the GPU block you are using 1/2 tube again so the pressure will drop.

Push fitting a tube over a barb and the barb threads are not totally air / water tight if the pressure is too great.

Replace this length of tube, it's not exactly expensive.

Re run the loop and retighten all the barbs. These are metal into metal threads so you can go fairly tight. Remember, PTFE tape will help to fill the gap between barb and block but if done badly it will cause a leak.

The best seal would be to use a drop of locktight but most folk don't do this.

Leak test you re-done loop with fresh coolant for 24-36 hours.

Don't test the loop with components included.

ED
 
Well i contacted scan and Ian adviced me to pour white vinegar to get the rust or whaterver that is out, so i did and left if for over 2 hours, and flushed it billions of times with distilled water. Disconnected the hose, stuck the cottom bud in and is still staining the cottom bud, so i packed the mobo for RMA.

Same thing on GPU, i will sent it back too, i tried everything, different barbs like 1/2" and 3/8" and also tried new o-rings, PTFE tape, no PTFE tape, and it still leaks, so the GPU is ready to ship on monday too. I really had enough of spending money with that, regards the fact that i am a volunteer here in the UK, so i get no money, pretty sad, frustrating and upsetting all of this.

Thanks for the advices guys!

PS_ Everything was tried with all barbs in 3/8", and then with no success on this, i tired the whole looping with 1/2" fatboy barbs, and again no good. As i said before, i tried re taping them all, and also new O-rings, and no good again!!!! GPU is ready to be shipped for RMA, no more spending money man, i cannot afford it!
 
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