Q6600 High Temps

S

sevsman

New member
Hi all,

First post here and i haven't had a real look around yet but i will straight after this post.

Ok, my problem is that i have a XSPC 240 rad that is only cooling a Q6600 @ 3.54.

My P95 temps run upto 70c. I have tried 2 scythe 107cfm fans in both push and pull and i get the same temps.

I tried 2 crappy thermaltake fans and i still get the same temps. So at the moment i have the 2 scythe in push on top of the rad and the 2 thermaltake in pull on the bottom of it. Still the temps are the same.

I have felt the tube and it's warm comming out of the rad which is weird as my loop goes 700lph pump - rad - swiftech Apogee Gt - pump.

If i turn my scythe's down to 1500rpm instead of 1900 the temps still stay the same aswell.

I really am at a loss as to what the problem is so any help or advice is sooooo greatly welcome :)

Thanks all

Nathan

*Edit*

Before now i had a crappy tai-chi case with the stock liquid cooling and i got the same temps but with the cpu at 3.4 and .5Vcore less

I really thought the new rad and fans would make a difference.

Oh and my liquid is

5% antifreeze (Ethylene glycol)

95% distilled water

A few drops on non-alcoholic Iodine.
 
Looks like you're going to need more rad capacity. Could add another 120mm or swap the current 120 for a 240mm.
 
What sort of pump is it? Have you made sure that the block is setaed correctly? Is the pump definitely plugged in? Could there be any blockages anywhere?
 
I'm really not worried about the fluid i use because i know there's alot of people that have been WC for years and they sometimes use straight distilled water. The additives are only needed for a mixed metal loop which mine isn't.

The pump is a Blagdon 700 which has a head of 1.5m so it should be ok. The pump is also 240v so it'll never be turned off just incase i forget to turn it back on when i boot up.

And i really do find it weird that the tubing is warm on the feed from the rad to the waterblock, especially as it seems to make no difference if i add more or take away from the cfm put through the rad. I've tried with the door open and closed so it's not the air temp in the case that's causing it either.

As for air trapped in the loop. there shouldn't be as i have turned the case round and around for about 20 mins and the pump is making no noises that arn't completely normal.

My biggest confusion is the tube being warm but the fluid temp staying the same wether i add or subtract fans. I know that that would generally mean there isn't enough flow on the pump but for the temps to be so high on a pump that pushes that much liquid per hour really is strange....

And if the pump wasn't powerfull enough it would still come out from the rad nice and cool but wouldn't have a high enough pass rate on the cpu to actively draw the heat away fast enough..

The cpu is definitely seated properly aswell. This is something that i always spend a good amount of time and concentration on as i know it's easy to get it the slightest bit wrong. Oh and i'm using AS ceramique aswell..
 
I use a DDC ultra, which pumps 900l/hr. It has a head of 4.2m, which is much more important. How thick is that rad, if its one of these stealth type ones, it may not have the cooling required.
 
The rad is this one.(can't post url's) (XSPC RS240 Black High Performance Copper Fin Radiator

High Performance Copper Fin Radiator

- Black Gloss Finish

- Dimensions: 121x35x277mm (WxDxH)

- 19mm Flat tubes for reduced flow resistance

- 1 Row 11 Tubes

- Compact Design

- G1/4" Ports

- M4 Screws

I would have thought that if the rad had unacceptable surface area for the fluid to cool properly that adding some more cfm would still drop the temp even if only by 2c.

And i will be getting probably a Laing D5-Pump 12V D5-Vario in a month or so. But the loop was bought with spare change really and i thought "i've got a couple of spare pumps lying around. I know i'll just use one of them". Might be a bit cheap but again if it was the pump not being powerfull enouh then the fluid would still come out of the rad at a much lower temp. Also is it common to need more than one 240 rad on a cpu only loop?

Thanks again for the help :)
 
Thought so. Its a thin radiator, unlike the the TFC xchangers or Black Ice extremes. These have about twice as much cooling potential. My QX at 4GHz on water will not go above 48C on intel burn but that's because of the huge cooling area on the xchanger. You ought to be OK with a 240 but generally, especially with quads, you want a thicker rad.

The pump I don't think will help either though. (replacing it would be good)
 
So how about a

XSPC RX240 Gloss Black

Introducing the RX240, the highest performing dual fan radiator XSPC have ever released. At close to twice the thickness of the RS series radiators it has excellent cooling capabilities and the sub 8fpi gives the radiator very low air flow resistance. The RX240 has been designed and optimised for low speed fans so it can offer high performance cooling at very low noise levels.

Details:

• High performance Copper tube/fin Radiator

• Dimensions: 125x58.5x286mm (WxDxH)

• Black Gloss Finish

• Copper Tubes and Fins

• Sub 8fpi (fins per inch)

• G1/4" Ports

And the Laing D5-Pump 12V D5-Vario as a combo?

The wife is going to love me. Lol
 
how warm is your 240v pump. See if it's dumping a lot of heat into the system. I run distilled water only with a DDC ultra 18w and my water temp is 30c and my quad loads about 50c+.
 
It's probably about 20c which i know is warm, but it is still cooler than the return fluid that it comes into contact with.

The only thing that really is stumping me is the fact that the fluid is still warm on the out from the rad. Even if the rad is inadequte i would of thought that the extra fans would have made atleast a minimal temp difference, but even if i remove the 2 scythe and leave just the crappy thermaltak fans the temps are still the same.

Strange one :(
 
Diablo was right, its a mixture of the rad cant disapate the heat fast enough and probably the pump is dumping heat also. Go to WCUK and buy a thermochill pa120.2 matey, be the best rad you ever own ;)
 
Well i just rebuilt it and now the temps are 25-25-30-31 idle and 67-67-65-65 loaded.

The temps are a bit better but i'm going to get a new rad probably newt week.

However i'm pushing 1.5v for 3.45ghz so i'm not to sure if it's worth it really as i don't think i'm going to get any more out of this chip than i already am.

Is it the Q8600 that is the new good OC'r?

Thanks again guys :)
 
I've looked around and i too thought it was a bit high, especially as it's a GO and not a B3.

But it doesn't seem to matter what i do i just can't get it to run without BSOD with anything less than 1.5. And it's at 3.54Ghz and not 3.45Ghz. Another typo :( Lol
 
so whats the vid?If its a new chip with a highish vid then that explains your high voltage,if it is one of the new chips then you have done well to get to 3.5 as most of the ones wont go past 3.2-3.4
 
It's only 1.275v, so i thought it would do about 3.6 @1.4v - 1.45v but i've had no luck past 3.54 yet. And that is with a hell of alot of time spent trying aswell.

The mobo is a P5Q-PRO and i've also read that this board is sweet for OC'ing aswell. I've had the fsb stable at 2000 so it can only be the chip. And i've RMA'd 2 of these boards aswell so i know it shouldn't be anything else on the board either..
 
mmm good board and decent vid,seems very weird why your temps are so high,I am running a Q6600 at 3.8 with 1.42v on a 240 rad and I load at 55-58
 
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