Post cannot enter Bios

[Formular VI]

Cannot enter bios
Motherboard Asus Maximus VI Formula.
I have just finished my new Build.
I did a test start a few weeks ago( no OS) and I could enter the BIOS all components working everything fine. Since then I have installed a comprehensive Watercooling Loop 5 Blocks, 2 Rads, Res,6 Pump and add Fans, LED lights, and another SSD
( all checked before installation). Now my PC will not start.
It fires up for about 10 seconds with all fans, lights and water pump working. then it shuts down, I have double check and recheck all my connections( as I thought they may have got dislodged while installing the watercooling components ) .Fans and lighting , water pump are all fine, having check them on a external power supply.
My PSU is a Corsair AX 860i and it was working fine in my first test. Checked again all connections both previous and new to Fans etc.
Can you help?
Obivously 10 seconds is not even long enough to get into the Bios.
Monitor and Keyboard were also working on my first Test ( all my components are new)
PS. I did a USB Bios flashback before my first test and it updated to the most recent, work fine then.

I must add , I have installed a CPU water block - EK Supremacy, GPU water block-EK-FC 780 GTX Ti with back plate. Motherboard& Chipset
water block EK-FB Kit Asus M6F, and EK-Ram Monarch X4 CSQ water block. All connected with Solid Tubing and EK and Bitspower fittings, so I guess this makes it a bit more complicated . I don't really know where to start looking for the problem, but the connections I have check and rechecked several times, and the pump is running with the fluid circulating. Where do I start now?
I have tried USB Flashback again to make sure it's not the Bios.

I have notice however something odd:
Can someone tell me the exact order from Plug in to the wall socket through to start up.
The reason I am asking my system seems to bypass stand by.
Here is what I have noticed : I Plug in from PSU to wall socket ( with the switch on the PSU switch off ), using the PSU switch, to switch on, it
jumps straight into startup , the only way I can get a standby is by plugging in the Keyboard ? and then hitting the PSU switch to start,
both ways in fires up for 10 seconds and then cuts out.
But I have never touched nor do I have time to hit the START button on the Motherboard

Should it not first go to standby when I turn on the PSU switch, and then normally hit the START button on the MOBO or front panel
Start Switch to fire up ?

Is this some kind of Built - in safety feature shutting down or does the problem lie else ware?

 

[MacLeod]

Something is definitely off in the connections if its starting up as soon as you flip the switch on the PSU. The rig should only power up when you press the start button on the front panel. Did you get any water anywhere? Inspect, and I mean closely, your motherboard and make sure nothing has shorted there. Seems the most likely culprit if your rig was working fine right before you put in an extensive custom WATER cooling loop.

 

[kully1972]

Have you tried just using one RAM stick and reseating it. Its interesting it starts straight away so thinking uve shorted one of the panel pins, Plse try switching them.
Also make sure your pump isn`t connected through a fan header or an adaptor.
I would love to know the cause. Sorry if this sounds obvious..just trying to help

 

[Formular VI]

Something is definitely off in the connections if its starting up as soon as you flip the switch on the PSU. The rig should only power up when you press the start button on the front panel. Did you get any water anywhere? Inspect, and I mean closely, your motherboard and make sure nothing has shorted there. Seems the most likely culprit if your rig was working fine right before you put in an extensive custom WATER cooling loop.

Thanks I will check that, But I had no Leeks, I was very carefully about that, no drops and I had White tissue everywhere covering everything and my Fluid is Dark Red so it would have show up easy.
I am wondering If some of the Solid Tubing is making to much pressure On one
of the water blocks (possible CPU block Or Ram block ) or Motherboard.
What do you think?

 

[MacLeod]

One little thing, some motherboards wont POST if there isnt a CPU fan attached. I built one for a friend a couple years ago and spent a freaking hour trying to figure out why it wouldnt POST. Finally yanked the CPU fan plug and looked at it out of desperation, plugged it back in and WHAMO! Since youre running a custom loop, do you have anything plugged into the motherboard's CPU fan socket?

 

[paulstung]

What case do you use, I remember on my Phantom 630, I had the exact same problem, and it was the removable top panel, pushing down on the case switch, causing it to be constantly being pushed down.

 

[MacLeod]

What case do you use, I remember on my Phantom 630, I had the exact same problem, and it was the removable top panel, pushing down on the case switch, causing it to be constantly being pushed down.

Thats a very good suggestion! If the power switch was being forced down or on or whatever, it would make it power up as soon as you turn on the power supply and if its being constantly pressed down, that would sure shut it off. When you think about it, its behaving just like it would if you turned it on then held in the start button on the front panel.

 

[Formular VI]

Have you tried just using one RAM stick and reseating it. Its interesting it starts straight away so thinking uve shorted one of the panel pins, Plse try switching them.
Also make sure your pump isn`t connected through a fan header or an adaptor.
I would love to know the cause. Sorry if this sounds obvious..just trying to help

Thanks yes I have thought about that too.
The problem is there is a water block on the Ram ( also CPU) with Solid Tubing.

So that means dismantling the tubing and the Loop. So I am leaving that option to the last.
It took weeks to put this loop together with only Solid Tube and so many Blocks, So Im sure you understand I would like first to eliminate all other possibles first.
Water pump is OK, its connected to the PSU via a Molex, I also tried connecting it to and external Power supply, along with the fans & lights and disconnected all my Hard drives just to eliminate those.

When I find the culprit I will let you know

One little thing, some motherboards wont POST if there isnt a CPU fan attached. I built one for a friend a couple years ago and spent a freaking hour trying to figure out why it wouldnt POST. Finally yanked the CPU fan plug and looked at it out of desperation, plugged it back in and WHAMO! Since youre running a custom loop, do you have anything plugged into the motherboard's CPU fan socket?

Yes, thought of that too. There are acutely 2 fans( 1-2 Y connector) in the CPU fan header, and one in the optional Just below it.

What case do you use, I remember on my Phantom 630, I had the exact same problem, and it was the removable top panel, pushing down on the case switch, causing it to be constantly being pushed down.

I have a NZXT Switch 810,
i have a Rad. installed at the top but I just checked I have a good 3 cm clearance to the Start button, But its a good idea, and I will check to see if the button its self is not stuck in the "in" position

But Now I see you mean the case switch on the front Panel, I will check that

Just checked removed the top panel and activated the button serval times, seems to be working OK,
Tried to post without the top in place, same results, but good idea thanks

 

[paulstung]

The only other thing I can think of is to, disconnect all of the cables and just plug in what you need paying paticular attention to the Molex connectors, they are my first go to, when mine won't boot.

Other than that I hate to say it mate, but it looks like you need to strip her down to the bare basics, and go from there mate, just be methodical in trying everything one thing at a time. I no It's a big pain in the arse, but at times needs must mate.

 

[Formular VI]

Many thanks to those that have made suggestions, I have not found it yet,
But at least we are eliminating possibilities. Which is what I want do before I start taking the Loop apart.
I would hate to go that far only to find out it was something else.

Here my Plan : If I can think of other possibles or someone can suggest others that we have not tried yet. I will of course to do those first.

In the meant time I have order some Soft Tubing the same size, and when that gets here and when I run out of other options. I will start to take out the Solid Tubing one at a time and replace it Temporary with Soft Tube, to see if the Solid is making too much Pressure on the Water Blocks ( partially CPU & RAM blocks). While I have them disconnected I can take out the Ram and change them around, and maybe reseat the CPU and block, I will continue around the Loop changing to Soft tube and then try again to Post with all Soft.
If it Posts then the Solid needs to be recut to make less pressure on the Blocks. If not Well ,I will have to see where I can go from there.
all suggestions are very welcome
Thanks Guys, keep them coming

The only other thing I can think of is to, disconnect all of the cables and just plug in what you need paying paticular attention to the Molex connectors, they are my first go to, when mine won't boot.

Other than that I hate to say it mate, but it looks like you need to strip her down to the bare basics, and go from there mate, just be methodical in trying everything one thing at a time. I no It's a big pain in the arse, but at times needs must mate.

Thanks, I will do what is necessary, just don't want to go that far unless its necessary only to find out it was some small stupid thing.
I just posted my Plan I think its already on Page 2
Cheers

 

[paulstung]

I don't think that the tubing causing to much pressure is the cause mate, it has nothing to do with any component not firing up so to speak. It sounds like there is a wire / switch set the constant position to me.

changing the tube for a greater diameter soft tube, will just cause a whole lot of unneeded expense, when you factor in you will need new fittings as well as tube.

A friend of mine showed me a trick to remove the cpu block, and the gpu in order to test one item at a time (the am I don't no ) Lie the case on it's back, that will let you undo the cpu block, and re-fit the stock cooler, then for the gpu, get a piece of thickish card, and when you gently pull out the card, sluide the card on top of the pcie slot letting the card rest on top of it, you might need to prop it up a bit. Your left with just the bare basics then to try and make sense of it all.

 

[Formular VI]

I don't think that the tubing causing to much pressure is the cause mate, it has nothing to do with any component not firing up so to speak. It sounds like there is a wire / switch set the constant position to me.

changing the tube for a greater diameter soft tube, will just cause a whole lot of unneeded expense, when you factor in you will need new fittings as well as tube.

A friend of mine showed me a trick to remove the cpu block, and the gpu in order to test one item at a time (the am I don't no ) Lie the case on it's back, that will let you undo the cpu block, and re-fit the stock cooler, then for the gpu, get a piece of thickish card, and when you gently pull out the card, sluide the card on top of the pcie slot letting the card rest on top of it, you might need to prop it up a bit. Your left with just the bare basics then to try and make sense of it all.

I am not changing the Solid for a greater Diameter Soft it's the same Size.
I was told to much Pressure On CPU Block or Ram block could cause the pins
to short or lose their contact , both resulting in a Shut down or not Posting.
To remove CPU Block and Ram is not possible with the Solid tubing and Fittings in place( both are being held in place by the tubing and block.You cannot take either CPU, GPU or Ram out of their slots before removing the Solid tubing. So placing the case on its back doesn't help I am afraid. Thats why the idea of Soft Tube as a temporary replacement then its possible to lift the blocks ,Ram GPU and CPU if necessary. I don't know if this is correct.
It could well be the switching or a wire somewhere, but I cannot find it yet.
Thanks for your help and suggestions. When I find something new I will post it here in the thread.
I will look closely at the START Switches on the mobo and front panel ( start Switch) tomorrow

 

[paulstung]

There is no way that flow restriction in the blocks, could cause shorting of pins mate, no way. they are not connected in any way shape or form. How can a flow of liquid in a sealed loop come into contact with electrical pins, causing them to short ? The only thing that could happen would be either slower flow, or one of the tube runs to pop out of the fitting.

I think the only option you have got if re-checking the the switches is to take it all apart and work backwards removing part by part until you get a post.

Am I right in thinking that this is your first build ? If so you might want to run your system on air for a while until your a bit more used to how you machine works, just to get the feel of things for a while, and then maybe add in your cpu and gpu, then after a while add the other blocks, it seems you have tried to run before you can walk buddy, attempting such a complex loop on your first build. Please don't think I'm dissing your effort in any way, props to you for that, but water cooling is a whole different ball game, with all sorts of complications that can occur.

If it's not your first build, ignore that last comment, I'm a complete div....

 

[Formular VI]

There is no way that flow restriction in the blocks, could cause shorting of pins mate, no way. they are not connected in any way shape or form. How can a flow of liquid in a sealed loop come into contact with electrical pins, causing them to short ? The only thing that could happen would be either slower flow, or one of the tube runs to pop out of the fitting.

I think the only option you have got if re-checking the the switches is to take it all apart and work backwards removing part by part until you get a post.

I never meant or said anything about flow restriction, Rather it's the pressure of solid tubes and the fittings pushing to tightly on the water blocks and they in turn making to much fiscal pressure on the Ram against their slots ( pushing them to hard in) and the same for the CPU ( the same as if you where to over tighten the screws on the CPU. At least thats is what I have been told. ???

I will anyway check the switches and connections tomorrow.

 

[paulstung]

There wouldn't be any difference in solid, or soft tube fittings, if your loop is set up the same in both instances, you'll have the same pressure. What pump are you using, if it's the variable, just turn it down.

I still stand by the fact that the pressure isn't enough to put that kind of force on any block, to push it against the cpu, ram, or whatever to cause it to not work. The pumps just don't have that kind of power mate, if your still thinking that is your problem, loosen the screws a bit, to relieve some of the pressure on the block, you might have just done them up too tight.

With your, gpu, does the pcb still look flat from looking at it from the side ?

 

[Formular VI]

There is no way that flow restriction in the blocks, could cause shorting of pins mate, no way. they are not connected in any way shape or form. How can a flow of liquid in a sealed loop come into contact with electrical pins, causing them to short ? The only thing that could happen would be either slower flow, or one of the tube runs to pop out of the fitting.

I think the only option you have got if re-checking the the switches is to take it all apart and work backwards removing part by part until you get a post.

Am I right in thinking that this is your first build ? If so you might want to run your system on air for a while until your a bit more used to how you machine works, just to get the feel of things for a while, and then maybe add in your cpu and gpu, then after a while add the other blocks, it seems you have tried to run before you can walk buddy, attempting such a complex loop on your first build. Please don't think I'm dissing your effort in any way, props to you for that, but water cooling is a whole different ball game, with all sorts of complications that can occur.

If it's not your first build, ignore that last comment, I'm a complete div....

Why Do you keep insisting On Flow restrictions. ?
The problem I have been told might be, the pressure on the water blocks caused physically by Solid Tube pushing down to hard on them and consequently the CPU or Ram causing lost of pin connection. (Same as Screwing the CPU Cooler on to hard)
nothing to do with Flow restrictions or Quote "How can a flow of liquid in a sealed loop come into contact with electrical pins" YOU said that not me
YOU are miss understanding what I am saying
It's to do with the PHYSICAL PRESSURE exerted on the CPU and RAM by Fittings and Solid / Hard Tube. Nothing to do with flow restrictions of water coming into contact with the pins.

 

[Wraith]

Just a thought and maybe a tiny oversight but have you got the power and reset connectors in the right slots and the right way round? I've done this many times before.

 

[Formular VI]

Just a thought and maybe a tiny oversight but have you got the power and reset connectors in the right slots and the right way round? I've done this many times before.

Thanks good idea, I will check that
if you can think of anything else it would be most welcome thanks again

Just Checked, I am using the Asus Q-connector and all the pins are in the correct position. But thanks anyway thats one more thing to tick OK on my check list.

 

[Wraith]

Before you leave it at that do you have a spare case you could take the switches from to check? That would also rule out faulty case switches.

Sorry if I seem a little thorough but I like to be 100% and always start right from the source.

 

[Formular VI]

There wouldn't be any difference in solid, or soft tube fittings, if your loop is set up the same in both instances, you'll have the same pressure. What pump are you using, if it's the variable, just turn it down.

I still stand by the fact that the pressure isn't enough to put that kind of force on any block, to push it against the cpu, ram, or whatever to cause it to not work. The pumps just don't have that kind of power mate, if your still thinking that is your problem, loosen the screws a bit, to relieve some of the pressure on the block, you might have just done them up too tight.

With your, gpu, does the pcb still look flat from looking at it from the side ?

We are taking here of two different kinds of Pressure, You Keep Talking about WATER PRESSURE, I am talking about PHYSICAL PRESSURE caused by HARD SOLID TUBES and the fittings exerting pressure on water blocks on the top of CPU and Ram. Have you ever used Solid Tube ? Then I think you would understand. Just leave out the water.

I will try to explain Top Rad outlet goes to the Mosfet Block/in
( motherboard block )
Mosfet block/out goes to the CPU block/in, CPU block/out goes to
Ram block/in, Ram block /out returns to RES. This is only half the Loop but it's the half where concern with here.
All these blocks are connected with fittings and HARD SOLID Tube so there is no play in between, some of the tube is vertical the other horizontal they all have to be cut to the mm to fit , this makes them like a chain but there is no play as in the links of a chain, on the CPU block and the Ram block the tube run from the window side of the case to the back of the case horizontally. They also like the rest have no play and these "maybe" are the tubes that are pressing to much on their respective blocks. Just try to image all these blocks as one unit then you will get the picture.
PS.
Changing hard to soft is only to see if it is Physical pressure cause by the Hard tube, soft will not have any pressure from one block to another, It also allows me to lift the Ram and CPU if necessary, thats just temporary to give access and eliminate any pressure on the blocks.
If thats the case then i would need to shorten these( HARD) tubes by a faction or perhaps half a mm.
Using all Hard tubing is very different from using Soft tube.