OC3D 3D Printing enthusiasts

[Warchild]

It could also have gotten clogged, and maybe broke via back-pressure? Not sure, haven't torn it down yet, since I got busy with work and needed to take a night off last night, no work, no stress. I will resolve this today damn it!


Yeah the filament I've been questioning since the beginning. But since I introduced that when I did the extruder mods, who knows. At one point I had a space heater pointing directly at the back of the printer, where the spool is, one of those heat-dish thingies. But I stopped doing that since I figured baking the filament while it's feeding probably doesn't help.

my money is on the filament. Just grab the end, like last few cm and flex it. If it snaps off in your hands. Thats your problem. It should be able to bend

 

[Bartacus]

Well I'm back to printing. That filament I was using DEFINITELY seems to have been of the 'poop' variety, and my Noulei silk PLA is printing better. But I'm still seeing particles around the extruder, and I've even loosened that up a bit. I'm getting it re-dialed in as we speak.


I also tried to do an LCD upgrade that required me to flash a custom Marlin firmware to the printer. That went well at first, or so I thought, but it appears I have LOADS to learn about Marlin. I managed to blue screen crash some firmware for the first time ever (lulz), along with rendering bed levelling / BLtouch completely and utterly useless, couldn't print a damn thing, LOL! Today I'm back to the stock screen, until I can figure how what I did wrong (and it was ME, no doubt, not the LCD upgrade kit).

 

[WYP]

Well I'm back to printing. That filament I was using DEFINITELY seems to have been of the 'poop' variety, and my Noulei silk PLA is printing better. But I'm still seeing particles around the extruder, and I've even loosened that up a bit. I'm getting it re-dialed in as we speak.


I also tried to do an LCD upgrade that required me to flash a custom Marlin firmware to the printer. That went well at first, or so I thought, but it appears I have LOADS to learn about Marlin. I managed to blue screen crash some firmware for the first time ever (lulz), along with rendering bed levelling / BLtouch completely and utterly useless, couldn't print a damn thing, LOL! Today I'm back to the stock screen, until I can figure how what I did wrong (and it was ME, no doubt, not the LCD upgrade kit).

Perhaps we can edit the first post in this thread to include Filament recommendations etc. Have had a great time with the white Sunlu filament I have. Haven't had the best time with the Geeetech stuff I have used. The red is OK, but the black I use isn't great. It's a bit fragile too, but not as bad as what you have.

Just upgraded to a dual-gear extruder, which took a while to dial in. Works great though. Mostly needed a metal extruder because the threaded insert on the plastic one kept pulling out and ruining prints. This issue started because of the black filament I used and a bad bed level. Learned a lot though.

 

[Warchild]

Perhaps we can edit the first post in this thread to include Filament recommendations etc. Have had a great time with the white Sunlu filament I have. Haven't had the best time with the Geeetech stuff I have used. The red is OK, but the black I use isn't great. It's a bit fragile too, but not as bad as what you have.

Just upgraded to a dual-gear extruder, which took a while to dial in. Works great though. Mostly needed a metal extruder because the threaded insert on the plastic one kept pulling out and ruining prints. This issue started because of the black filament I used and a bad bed level. Learned a lot though.

I'm not sure if you can moderate and edit the thread, but please change it to whatever you want. That was my plan that someone could step in and do this as well.

I actually by my filament from a local store and its really good quality. I pay £15 per kilo and its pretty decent. Shame that they have zero stock at the moment.

#shakes fist at corona virus

 

[WYP]

I'm not sure if you can moderate and edit the thread, but please change it to whatever you want. That was my plan that someone could step in and do this as well.

I actually by my filament from a local store and its really good quality. I pay £15 per kilo and its pretty decent. Shame that they have zero stock at the moment.

#shakes fist at corona virus

Fair enough. I just wanted to make sure before I edited anything.

 

[Bartacus]

Calibration cube says my printer needs work!

Also printed a Hero Me Gen 3 fan duct thingy, my first multi-part print that requires assembling, woohoo!

 

[Warchild]

Lilac PLA looks nice!

Whats your preference on build plate? do you use brim or raft? I have noticed even with heated plate, and slow speed, some of my prints will warp at a particular spot on the build plate. Raft fixes this, but is an annoying extended time and waste of PLA

 

[WYP]

Lilac PLA looks nice!

Whats your preference on build plate? do you use brim or raft? I have noticed even with heated plate, and slow speed, some of my prints will warp at a particular spot on the build plate. Raft fixes this, but is an annoying extended time and waste of PLA

I have only used the stock Creality build plate so far. Don't want to invest in a glass bed yet. Haven't had any issues Printing directly to the bed. I only use a brim when my print lacks the required surface area to stay in place on its own.

If your bed level isn't 100%, you will get a bit of stumping on the base of prints, as your PLA will be a little squashed onto the build plate. Not sure what the problem could be with your bed TBH, as I'm sure you have placed it correctly.

 

[Warchild]

I have only used the stock Creality build plate so far. Don't want to invest in a glass bed yet. Haven't had any issues Printing directly to the bed. I only use a brim when my print lacks the required surface area to stay in place on its own.

If your bed level isn't 100%, you will get a bit of stumping on the base of prints, as your PLA will be a little squashed onto the build plate. Not sure what the problem could be with your bed TBH, as I'm sure you have placed it correctly.

Well this is the interesting part. The "dodgy spot is almost dead centre, lets say offset from centre by 40mm. If any objects edge is built on this spot it will warp. If the object covers this spot with the main body, e.g. centre of the model there are no issues.

Obviously If I place the edges of the model anywhere else on the plate, its fine. Its like there is a dead zone on the plate. I have managed to work around it easily enough. But sometimes I just use a raft for security. Then the initial layers are perfect.


edited original post with a few tid bits of info. Please change it how you feel.

 

[Bartacus]

I have similar issues with the stock build plate Warchild. With the stock glass bed, the prints were SUPER sticky, sometimes tough to get off, and it also seemed weirdly uneven in spots. So I had a local glass place cut me up some pieces of 3mm mirrored glass, with the edges bevelled. Now I have adhesion issues with the prints curling up sometimes, LOL! I just can't win. Lately I've been using hair spray on the mirrored glass, with rafts. I also have a parabolic heat dish that keeps the air around the printer warm overnight now. Chilly basements can contribute to lifting, as will anything that cools the print down.


I need to do more bed levelling, and print some super thin large test prints, around 350 x 350. My new extruder lands tomorrow, *hopefully* along with another package. Once I get the extruder installed, I'll be working on micro-leveling this silly bed.

 

[Warchild]

I have similar issues with the stock build plate Warchild. With the stock glass bed, the prints were SUPER sticky, sometimes tough to get off, and it also seemed weirdly uneven in spots. So I had a local glass place cut me up some pieces of 3mm mirrored glass, with the edges bevelled. Now I have adhesion issues with the prints curling up sometimes, LOL! I just can't win. Lately I've been using hair spray on the mirrored glass, with rafts. I also have a parabolic heat dish that keeps the air around the printer warm overnight now. Chilly basements can contribute to lifting, as will anything that cools the print down.


I need to do more bed levelling, and print some super thin large test prints, around 350 x 350. My new extruder lands tomorrow, *hopefully* along with another package. Once I get the extruder installed, I'll be working on micro-leveling this silly bed.

The money you are spending on yours, you could have gotten a really professional printer with all the luxuries

 

[Bartacus]

The money you are spending on yours, you could have gotten a really professional printer with all the luxuries

Dude, I had a Mosquito hot end in my cart along with the BMG extruder, $200CDN for that ALONE, 1/4 the price of the entire printer. But I talked myself out of it.

 

[Bartacus]

Speaking of spending money...

That's a spool of PLA, some Swiss clips, and a pair of E3D Nozzle X's, one in 0.25mm, the other 0.8mm.



New PLA is "dark wood", LOL!

Love these low profile clips. I will not miss those stupid bulky binder clips AT ALL:

EDIT: bonus pic! I printed a little manual extruder wheel for 'turning' your filament manually. More of a test print than anything else:

Here's the difference between between clips, LOL!

 

[Warchild]

My ender 5 doesnt support wood filament. Or is that just a colour name?

 

[WYP]

My ender 5 doesnt support wood filament. Or is that just a colour name?

It doesn't? Surely the only problem would be that it would wear out your nozzle faster? If it's PLA your printer should be able to handle the heat.

 

[Bartacus]

My ender 5 doesnt support wood filament. Or is that just a colour name?

It supposedly smells like wood when printing, but I'm not sure if it's actually wood infused. It's a hard filament on your nozzle. Abrasion on the nozzle is the issue, not temps. It prints at standard PLA temp, or so the box says. This is why I bought several variants of the very expensive E3D Nozzle X's, rather than the $2 ones. I wanted to mess around with this type of filament, plus carbon fibre PETG, etc.

 

[WYP]

Looks like Creality has just revealted its Ender 3 V2 3D Printer. Looks great, and added a lot of the user upgrades that I have made to my own Ender 3.

https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/ender-3-v2-3d-printer?variant=31354217267273

 

[Warchild]

So aficionados I have a dilemma

Testing a different filament. I spent ages bed levelling because the new filament wouldnt stick. Even when testing with this. (massively recommend using this for accuracy.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789086

So time and time again, filament would not stick to the build plate to even begin printing a square unless I went too close to which the layer printed awful.

Now, I swapped back to my other filament without adjusting the bed. And the squares printed perfectly. Bed level was in an ideal setup.

So here is the interesting part. The new filament that wouldnt stick actually gives a fantastic finish once it gets going. So any ideas why this one isnt sticking?

Filament temp is recommended 185-215. I was using 200. Should I set temp to the max?

 

[Bartacus]

Well after fighting with my bloody printer so much I had to 'cool off' for 2 days and walk away from it, I discovered something. I think the E3D Nozzle X that I bought has been contributing to my issues. It was clogged badly (still is actually, LOL). I had to tear down the entire stock hot end to clear things out. Thanks to me doing the Luke Hatfield fix, clearing up a clog is a lot more complicated. You can't just rip out the bowden tube anymore, hence why I tore the entire hot end down. But here's another clue: I bought a second Nozzle X for a buddy, as a thank you gift for letting me pester him with 3d printing questions. He picked it up yesterday. After 5 prints, and only 1 success, he reverted back to his stock brass nozzle. I'm not sure if these E3D steel nozzles have a pre-treating procedure or something, or maybe we got some bad ones, but either way I'm back to stock.

After printing some calibration cubes, and re-levelling everything for the 9 millionth time, here's a print going down with my known "good" filament, Noulei silk purple PLA:

This part of the 1st layer looks pretty clean:

This part does not:

Maybe that was a hiccup in the filament / extrusion, in one corner:

The other end looks pretty sharp, I *think* these are good lines, feel free to correct me:

If this print succeeds, I will be happy. It's less than 6 hours, so I will know tonight if it does (it's a filament spool mod, got me some skateboard bearings to go with it). Now I think I need 10 or 20 disposable nozzles, just in case!!

 

[Warchild]

For the perfect brim and almost fail proof, set first layer to 200% and 20mm first layer speed.

Or rather, initial layer width. I would say its a height issue, but you have the BLTouch, so in my eyes, your brim is layering too thinly. I had identical problem.

Was scratching my head why a raft was fine, but brim always failed. Someone suggested increase layer width of the first layer and not had an issue since.