Newb question(s)

[grazzhopper]

Hi folks, my first post.

Looking at a BI stealth 240 into the top of my silverstone case, looking at alphacool laing ddc with attached res

http://www.chilledpc.com.au/store/product_info.php?cPath=20_138&products_id=437

What are my options for placement, do i need one of those dangerden fill points? will i need to attach the pump/res to the roof of the case?

Is the full copper nexXxos block worth the extra $20 Au?

Thermo sensors, do i measure res temp, or do i need an inline T version, (have a Tban BigNg)

Compared to years of Zalman air coolers, this is going to be an expensive exercise and i donot want to end up with a draw full of mismatched bits and peices.

Living several hundred km's from some where, i need to freight in all items so single source purchasse is the go for me.

And of cause the candidate is a X2 4200, DFI Nf4SLI lanparty and a XFX 7800gtx.

Any assistance would be appreciated

 

[llwyd]

Its best to have the pump (in your case, pump-res) at the bottom of your case, pumping, into the rad, which then goes to your cpu, then gfx card and back into the pump. I would imagine that yes it is worth going for the all copper block. The ddc res attaches to the top of the pump so there is no need for a fillport of any kind. I use 3/8th of an inch tubing in a system the same as what youre looking at incase you were wondering about that too (3/8" = 9.5mm so the tubing may be labeled as "8 id /10 od")

Check out the reviews in our reviews section on GPU block aswell.

 

[FarFarAway]

Deffo take a look at our GPU cooler reviews...Eddie EK is where it's at for full cover.

 

[Ham]

Thought about a kit?

The Alphacool kit i got is fantastic (OC3D ftw). All you need to buy is that and any extra water blocks you want.

 

[Nagaru]

Don't get the pump with the built in res it lowers performance significantly, just my two cents.

 

[WC Annihilus]

Aye, I would personally just go with the DDC with the normal Alphacool top (no res). For the GPU block, generally full cover performs a bit worse than things like the Maze4 and such, but it does add the bling factor

 

[grazzhopper]

thanks for the post s,

apogee or nexxxos CPU, mmm are they just too close in performance to make a difference?

 

[Ham]

Don't get the pump with the built in res it lowers performance significantly, just my two cents.

Im gonna have to disagree there. I have it, and although it may reduce performance it is still dam good.

Makes filling the loop a easy as pie.

 

[Nagaru]

Im gonna have to disagree there. I have it, and although it may reduce performance it is still dam good.

Makes filling the loop a easy as pie.

Well I was talking from a performance stand point. Would you agree to, for best performance don't get the res top, but it does add to ease of use.

 

[RollerCam540]

Watercooling Suggestions



/**NOTE

* I did not thoroughly read through the preceeding posts.

*

* Therefore, should I comment on something that was not

* covered and/or asked or comment incorrectly on something-

* "obvious", then my deepest apologies.

*

* ALSO:

*

* Forgive my terminology.

*

*/

SUGGESTION #1:

Buy waterblocks with the brass "cover"/"top" option. Why? I've heard reports of acrylic covers cracking under too much spring pressure over time (causing the water block to subsequently leak, in certain instances).

Keep in mind that these incidents have been reported by owners whose block's come packaged with their own springs and 'spring tension stopper' (some kind of object that sits inside the spring and outside of the barb, prohibiting the installer from inducing too much spring tension).

I *believe* brass tops are far less likely to corrode or fail too?

​

SUGGESTION #1:

Run a TUBE from the PUMP outlet to your CPU block, from your CPU to any and all other BLOCKs, and then run the TUBE to your RADIATOR back into your PUMP inlet. This should restrict the least amount of flow. As far as the pump you have in mind is concerned: I cannot comment on it because I don't recall hearing about it. The last time I checked, the "DDC" was the silent most DC PUMP you could buy and should really only be used with 3/8" tubing. Whether the "DDC" I'm referring to is the 'DDC' you're referring to, well, your guess is as good as mine. The D5 was the next best alternative because it was a strong pump and usually the only recommended pump for TUBEs > 3/8". For maximum performance, the IWAKI's were generally recommended. Regardless of whatever PUMP you choose, you should really research all PUMPs carefully because the PUMP, TUBE size, and RADIATOR plays a crucial factor in cooling efficiency when air cooling won't do.

​

SUGGESTION #3

A T-LINE is easier to setup than a RESEVIOR. A T-LINE does not require nearly as much space as a RESEVIOR, but I've seen some "work" behind a theory that having a RESEVIOR will yeild a marginal improvement increase in water flow, over a T-LINE, when placed before the PUMP's inlet.

However, the work behind this theory was done with a PUMP and a large independent RESEVIOR

​

I have to go, so, I will comment further at another time.

 

[Mr. Smith]

thanks for the post s,

apogee or nexxxos CPU, mmm are they just too close in performance to make a difference?

I recently got the apogee - price/performance its amazing, solidly built too.

I'd recommend 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing... If you want any linkage or any help post or pm me. I found it daunting at first but with the support I got here I soon realised setting up a w/c kit is easy...

 

[grazzhopper]

Well folks, thanks for responding, water cooling appears to be a simple thing until you have to choose components, so after a week of mumbling to my self i have order the bits and pieces.

Alphacool Nex full copper cpu block ( idea of acrylic cracking sort of erked me)

Alphacool Chipset, the offset one for DFI Lanparty.

Fluid XP (damm expensive for peace of mind, but i liked the 5 year life)

...................

Swiftech MCRES-Micro

swiftech tubing (AU$2.50 was a bargain, tygon is AU$15.00/ metre)

BI Stealth 240 rad, I have a couple of silentX, and i did order 2 fan shrouds, as i will be pushing through the rad, will be interesting to see what difference they make.

The pump, with 3/8 tubing went for the swiftec MCP350, a plain version of the Laing DDC, went for the 11W version as somebody mentioned issues with Tban BigNG and the 18W ultra.

...........................

As you can see, I had a good priced company that sells Swiftec ( www.pccasegear.com), and an expensive supplier (www.chilledpc.com.au) that supplied the Alphacool and fluid.

In Germany a thermo probe may be 10 euro, in Australia it is not $16 (ie 10 euro *1.6) but $30, in fact items were so expensive from Chilledpc that I had to opt out of Tban flow and temp sensing for the water loop, it would cost ~$100 just to measure flow.

I am planning to use Tban to control Rad fans, based on thin temp probe attached to cpu block.

At this stage i have put on hold water cooling VGA (XFX7800GTX), as i could purchase a secondhand card for SLI for about what it will cost to replace the very effective Arctic cooler.

Comments are welcome, hints about installation, things to watch out for etc

and of cause if i have F_cked up, please do say.

euip should arrive within 14 days

 

[grazzhopper]

Thanks for the reply Mr Smith, the more i read about the Apogee, the more i think i have f_cked up.

The rad will be mounted into the roof of the case, do I go pump/block/rad or do i go pump/rad/block ???

 

[FarFarAway]

I'd go res > pump > rad > block > res

The pump puts a small amount of heat into your loop so putting the pump before the rad means the coolest water should be going to the CPU block.

 

[WC Annihilus]

I believe it has been established that loop order is a myth and makes less than .5*C (I think maybe even less). As long as the res/t-line (depending on what you have, in your case the res) is before the pump, all will be well.

 

[FarFarAway]

Ah but every little helps doen't it?

 

[Mr. Smith]

Well... the first time I set up my loop I went Res>Pump>CPU>GPU>Rad>Res.

After having the pc on for hours at a time the pump would get hot, temps would rise. I had this set up just to leak test so when changing from water to tec-protec/uv I went Res>Pump>Rad>CPU>GPU>Res.

I have a ddc ultra, if you are using the pc for a substantial amount of time then a couple of degrees makes a big difference, that could be the difference between stable overclock and unstable lol.

P.S grazzhopper - you HAVE to use Coollabs Liquid Pro - knocked like 20 deg C off my temps! Granted the Artic Silver 5 I was using could have been a dud, but 10 deg C is common.

As for installation - check Kemp's guide and read ReD.SkY's uber noober guide

 

[grazzhopper]

Liquid pro is not available in Australia, I have ordered a tube in from Germany. Should be here with in a week.

Thanks for the tip, I think I will also follow your advice about res/pump/rad/cpu/chipset.

 

[grazzhopper]

The PCCASEGEAR stuff has arrived, first f### of the day is I assumed the two shrouds would fit a double rad...they dont. A belated google for coolingworks reveals no they dont fit and no they dont make a double.

The rad is an issue also, the area for mounting is very thin, and does not pass through the rad so one could pass a bolt through. mmmm I guess folks use short bolts/screws??

Second f### of the day is seeing how good the tubing fit on the pump is, cant get the bloody tubing off! Will i need to procure ratchet style plastic hose clamps for the pump or do i use the metal worm drive clamps and be very carefull?

The res is cool

tia

 

[PV5150]

I see you've purchased gear from PC case gear, nice one. I purchase from their all the time.

Did you buy the UV shrouds? Because the product scope states that they are designed to fit Hardware Labs©, ThermoChill© and Innovatek© radiators only.

The rad is an issue also, the area for mounting is very thin, and does not pass through the rad so one could pass a bolt through. mmmm I guess folks use short bolts/screws??

Did it not come with supplied screws, it should have! You need to be careful if you use slightly longer screws than specified in case you pierce the core.

...cant get the bloody tubing off! Will i need to procure ratchet style plastic hose clamps for the pump or do i use the metal worm drive clamps and be very carefull?

Depending on the tubing you have, the barbs can really take hold of the inner wall (which is a good thing). If you need to get it off and you have some slack or spare tubing, simply use a pocket knife to slit the tubing and release the seal (don't cut the barb inthe process). Make sure you remove the cut piece of tubing before leak testing, otherwise you'll have a pool in your pc. As far as clamps go, I personally use the worm drive type clamp, but don't over-tighten or you'll strip the clamp or puncture the tubing. The plastic ratchet ones would be fine as long as the barbs are providing a firm fit for your tubing.