New Build Water Cooling Options

[tolagarf]

I need some input here on what to do, as I'm having a hard time deciding...

I'm building a new gamer PC in a Fractal Define Mini C case with a X299 Kaby Lake X system asap, and I will move over my GTX 1080 Founder's Edition from my current system.

I want to reuse my current Alphacool parts, at least the Eiswolf. But I'm considering if it's worth it using the Eisbaer, not that it has any faults really, but it's just such a PITA to work with. I was actually considering just buying a good water block for the CPU and use the pump with the Eiswolf. Or I could just use my Noctua NH-D15S CPU cooler and make it simple, call it a day.

Here's the simple plan with or without water cooled CPU:

Use the Eiswolf as main system pump, have a 280mm radiator in the front with the ports pointing towards the bottom to trap the air in the top compartment of the radiator. Then use a single Alphacool plastic QDC for the sole reason of connecting my bay reservoir to bleed the air out by flipping the case on its head, so the air can easily get out this way. What do you think?

Will this work well with one pump, or do you think the Eisbaer is needed to do this properly without hindering the water flow?

 

[Tolemac]

The best person to answer your question would be Wraith as he uses both the Eiswolf and Eisbaer in his loop IIRC

 

[tolagarf]

The image blow showcases my old setup and my current PC (currently air cooled). It didn't last long as I was having an annoying issue with the air from the bay reservoir creeping back into the radiator, creating a rather big air pocket. I would then tilt and shake the case to get the air out, back into the reservoir. Wait one week, rinse & repeat and the air was back doing its thing with the radiator again. It was causing my Eiswolf to perform mediocre but didn't seem to impact the CPU cooling. I then tried adding a 240mm radiator at the bottom for more surface area, same problem. Didn't do a thing lol.

At one point doing gaming my GTX 1080 hit 71C with the Eiswolf mounted and that shouldn't happen unless an air pocket got stuck in its pump. It was then I decoded to just tear it all apart and go with air cooling until my next build, and find a better solution with the cooling.

So later on I build an i7 7700K system which didn't go so well for me, ending up returning it all due to some odd XMP memory compatibility issue (tested with different memory sticks), and I just left my old system on air.

 

[Tolemac]

Personally I would go with a D5 Vario for my loop but I have to emphasise i'm not going to sell it down your throat that is just the best and safest option that I would go with

 

[Wraith]

I can tell you 100% if you run this loop with either of the pumps disabled you'll see the temps rise right away, as it struggles to push fluid past the unpowered pump. To add a D5 you'd need to strip the blocks and remove the impellers which is just pointless as they have perfectly suitable pumps already.

Are you really considering using a 280mm rad upside down in the front of the Define Mini C... which means you'll have to lose the drive bays or slide them back and sacrifice some PSU wiring space and I'm not going to lie it's going to be tight as hell, I know I was swearing like a sailor when I did the Define C.

As for trapped air, I'm still to this day after 4 months bleeding air from the loop as it does collect in the top rad but it's easily moved to the drain/fill port and removed.

 

[tolagarf]

Personally I would go with a D5 Vario for my loop but I have to emphasise i'm not going to sell it down your throat that is just the best and safest option that I would go with

I would love a D5, but a this point I've spend too much money on this junk already. I should had just bought one of those EKWB kits instead of the Eisbaer, but it's always easy to look in the back mirror

As for trapped air, I'm still to this day after 4 months bleeding air from the loop as it does collect in the top rad but it's easily moved to the drain/fill port and removed.

Holy hell! You still removing trapped air... You just made up my mind for me, that Eisbaer is getting kicked out the door. Think it's just easier for me to use my Noctua air cooler and let the Eiswolf run standalone.

The drive bay isn't an issue for me, but with the Eiswolf alone I'll just use my 240mm radiator instead. No need to go buy a 280mm for that.

 

[Tolemac]

I would love a D5, but a this point I've spend too much money on this junk already. I should had just bought one of those EKWB kits instead of the Eisbaer, but it's always easy to look in the back mirror

I did something similar my self mate. I bought a XSPC raystorm kit with the 750 pump and ended up swapping the pump and res out for a D5. £100+ more expense

 

[Wraith]

Holy hell! You still removing trapped air... You just made up my mind for me, that Eisbaer is getting kicked out the door. Think it's just easier for me to use my Noctua air cooler and let the Eiswolf run standalone.

You'll never get it all out in one run as micro bubbles form and eventually collect and move through the loop, I'm at the point now where it's pretty much all bled. Only every now and again do I get a small bubble appear and as I said they are easily teased out and it's worth the effort for the cooling performance the loop provides. I had ambients of 27c last week and even under heavy load my temps went no higher than 41c.

 

[tolagarf]

Hehe the saga continues...

I bought an Alphacool 280mm pre-filled radiator for the Eiswolf from Aquatuning, and it was full of debris. They didn't even bother cleaning it out from the factory, I mean I know this is standard for their radiators but when you buy an add-on product for their AIO lineup, you'd expect them to clean it out right?

And then it leaks from the end tank near the fittings... Just wow my luck lately. Going back to plan B, installing my 240mm radiator instead. I just want this build to actually be finished

Edit: Pics or it didn't happen

 

[AlienALX]

No company cleans any stuff from the factory you always need to do that before you set up a loop.

 

[tolagarf]

No company cleans any stuff from the factory you always need to do that before you set up a loop.

I think you misunderstood. This radiator was pre-filled with water and equipped with fittings, tubes, and QDC so you can play & play so to speak. It's sold as a complete product, not individual parts. Of course it has to be clean.

 

[Bartacus]

Damn, if that's the case, that's sloppy work on Alphacools part. I know their rads are the dirtiest rads in the entire WCing landscape, but I would assume an AIO rad would be pre-cleaned too. That sucks. Ocool rads are filthier than the filthiest pr0n star. I think I flushed my 360 Monstas 10 times and gunk was still coming out.

 

[AlienALX]

I think you misunderstood. This radiator was pre-filled with water and equipped with fittings, tubes, and QDC so you can play & play so to speak. It's sold as a complete product, not individual parts. Of course it has to be clean.

So they didn't clean it then. Either that or some paint or powder coat (whichever it is) got trapped and released afterwards.

It's not cool either way (pardon the pun).

 

[tolagarf]

Well goodbye GTX 1080 FE, it was nice knowing you. The card died. Not sure if it was the water block install or it was just its time, although it had been acting weird with silly high temps these last few months