Need some help identifying what's happening in my loop!

Drider

New member
Hello fellow enthusiasts!

So I've been running my system for about 4 weeks now, and enjoying every minute of it. Not looking forward to tearing it all apart to re-run a few legs of the acrylic tube, and place a new PSU on the way, but that is what it is.

However, I decided to shine my ridiculously bright flashlight around the system this evening just to see what's going on, and I'm VERY surprised what I found!

Now before you look at the pictures, know that I flushed everything in this system, including the Black Ice SR-1 420mm Radiator with Distilled water, through a 1 micron filter for ~24 hours before setting up. The coolant I'm using is just bottled distilled water with a little bit of Mayhem's Biocide.

I have no idea what this is, and any advice as to how to correct it would be very appreciated! (I am assuming my PH may be off?)

It appears to be even worse on the plugs that came with the EK 1080 WB...

The Rig Details can be found in this thread, basically all highest quality components:

http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=76843

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it does look a lot like copper is being deposited about.. but i dont see how that would be the case unless there is a dc current running through the water.
 
That would be mild electrolysis ... Bitspower parts are plated copper, looks like something is breaking down/scratching off the chrome plate or something.. You don't need much current to get that kind of affect either...

Do you have different metals on your blocks? Did you scratch a fitting enough for it to expose raw copper? It's unusual to see that kind of breakdown without pretty harsh acidity/alkalinity.


Edit:
Also pH 4 is ACIDIC not Alkaline dude

acid-alkaline-diet-phscale.png


pH 4 is actually quite acidic and it will be eating the fittings at that kind of acidity.

Ignore my bit above, the acid will be eating the fittings and now the copper. I'd get that loop emptied fast and new fittings put in...
 
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i would have to strip down and check if its deposited copper, or nickle plating being removed.. i would however imagine its deposited copper for so many of the items to be effected. this would also lead me to check for potential issues with the pump as for this to happen there has to be a dc current in the water. Not knowing your full loop setup the only part i could imagine where voltage leakage could happen is the pump, although electrical temperature sensors/flow rate meters and so on could also introduce a potential source for current.

but as stated above. if the water is that acidic it could be the factor. Although i would still imagine that some of that has to be deposited.
 
Tbh you can get a small amount of induced current without direct DC, having different metals, and just having the fluid touching a block of metal that's in contact with the components will give you a small amount of induced current, it doesn't take much.

To me, the issue here is acidic fluid at pH4
 
where as i agree that the fluid is probably stipping, it still looks like copper is also being deposited, but thats probably a by product of the stripping.
 
I appreciate all the help, but this is certainly not good news...

What are my options here?

Are my blocks toasts? I spent a fortune on this setup, I really wouldn't like to purchase all over again..

What's the recommended way to deal with the PH, this was straight from the bottle distilled, with Mayhem's Biocide.

The entire loop is copper and brass. The blocks are all EK Nickle plated copper, the Radiator is a Black Ice SR1 full copper/Brass, and all Bitspower fittings.
 
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Im sure youre only meant to use a few drops of biocide, did you use the whole bottle?

Just a few drops were added to a 1 gallon jug of distilled water. Literally 4 drops to 1 gallon. Not my first time WC and I know how volitile this stuff can be.
 
Doesnt sound right, it couldnt have made it that acidic. It would have eaten the bottle.

Id deffo flush it out and start again though. (like tonight)
 
does the copper rub off the nickle or is it just copper now..
and no i wouldnt call the components toast without the nickle but you would deffo need to keep everything copper in the loop (no cheapo ally rads)
 
Well, I got everything torn down, and started opening up the blocks for cleaning.
The copper, if it is indeed copper as I have found no proof it actually is, is coming off rather easy.

There is one thing.

I'm finding a residue of some kind, aside from the "Copper", inside the blocks. I wouldn't say it's tacky, nor would I say slimy. It's ... Interesting for a lack of better terminology. I used to work in a machine shop, it I reminds me of the coolant we would use to keep the bits from overheating in the mills. I have a feeling these blocks were never properly cleaned after milling, and my initial flushes did basically nothing.


I still haven't traced exactly where the source of the "copper" is coming from, but I can only suspect my radiator it this point, only because it's the only component I can't tear down to the interior.

I can't stress enough there are no "Cheap" components in this system. I'm not going to drop over $4000.00 on hardware to only leave the last $500.00 weak. The entire loop is EK blocks, Bitspower Fittings, Copper and Brass. This was the only time any of these components have been used, and it's only Distilled water with 4 drops of biocide diluted in 1-gallon.

Further more, I will be running to the pet store tomorrow to get a quality PH test kit. As I'm not certain I'm getting accurate readings from the Mayhem's Biocide Kit PH tester. All 3 1-gallon bottles of distilled water I've tested which are different brands, and from two different stores show a PH of 4, as well as my own tap water and the bottled spring water i just had delivered today. I drink my tap water, and spring water, and surely if it were that acidic I would have some health problems.

There's certainly more to this story..
 
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