Low temps and memory controllers

[K404]

I didnt want to move OT elsewhere, so started this. My new CPU under phase craps out when the memory controller hits 265-ish. The head wasnt making the greatest contact, I`ll be honest, but from the way it refused to play, I`m pretty sure its the memory controller. Is there any way around this(e.g..keeping the CPU loaded) will changing the speed whilst using the CPU cause a crash most of the time? If I cant get anything worthwhile under a Mach2GT I dont think I stand much chance using LN2 etc.

Thanks!

Kenny

 

[JAFFA]

I've always thought that cold bug didn't kick in until about -45c core temperature, if you're getting that with a standard Mach II then thats cool if you'll pardon the pun.

There are work arounds, like running higher voltage and booting into windows at high MHz, also when in windows you can have a program like sp2004 or prime running low priority in the background to keep a load on the core at all times. The way I understand it as the temp drops the drivestrength changes which directly affects the memory controller.

I must admit when I first started playing with my Opteron I thought I was seeing memory controller issues, but there is some wierdness with the Opties that makes it necessary to raise Max Async Latency and Pre-amble slightly. Once I shifted my MAL and Pre-Amble my memory controller issues disappeared. Here's a screenie with my tweaker settings in case they might help.

Worth reading too:-

link

link

 

[GoLLuM4444]

You can burn the controllers in like the ram but you shouldn't really be stuck that low until about -40 bios reading. You sure it's not the board?

 

[Master_G]

From what i have read about the cold bug, at least part of it is down to the board, apparently it comes from the fact that as you cool the memory controller on the CPU, the strength of the signal it sends out gets stronger, and once this gets too out of balance/strong it causes crashes etc.

That's why on the ATI chipset they have put the option of changing the boards drive strength and apparently this can solve the cold bug, or at least get you a few extra MHz stable.

G

 

[K404]

I`ll try Jaffas ideas- thanks mate! I dont *think* its the board as my Winchester was whupping my Optos current clocks by a pretty dismal 400MHz. Thats why I`m blaming the CPU.

K

 

[JAFFA]

Ah it is an Opty! Had a feeling it might be.

Like I say I had similar worries when I initially set mine up and it really did feel like the memory controller was going a bit berty. Max Async Latency at 9 and Preamble at 6.5 fixed it. Those timings may seem a little slack, but once in windows you can always tweak them down a little bit for benching. If you get into trouble let us have a look at your tweaker settings, either way let us know how you get on.

 

[K404]

Thanks! and...DOH! for letting slip my new CPU DAMNIT!!! LOL

I`ll try the new A64 Tweaker with drive Strength options. If the drive strength rises with the cold naturally, should I set it to "low"?

Cheers!

 

[JAFFA]

I just left mine at 'AUTO' but that doesn't mean there aren't gains to be had by tinkering with it, it just means I was lazy

 

[K404]

Hey. Sorry it came to this.. things appear to be getting worse,. not better. I made the changes Jaffa suggested, and my computer crashed. I changed the settings in the BIOS, and it wouldnt boot afterwards. I cleared CMOS and left everything to auto. Please can you have a look at the A64 settings?

Normally I run with Tref= 200MHz 15.6uS, idle cylce limit=256 and Read Preamble= 7ns. I sometimes run with a 183 or 166 divider (in the good old days when I COULD overclock) should Tref be set to 166 if i`m using a 166 divider? Only just thought of that.

My OC on air is dismal.... The Mach was definately doing something.

Thanks,

Kenny

 

[maverik-sg1]

Assuming it redline RAM?

Okay if you have put the divider in the BIOS - it should be reported on A64 Tweaker as 166.

TREF should be set to 15.6us, set TRFC to 16 (can go to 12) and TRC to 7

Read Write Queue Bypass should be x16 (keep this setting_

Bypass max should be x5 or x7 (try 5 first)

Change Idle cycle limit to 128 or 256 (16 is right, but u may need these settings for stability)

Set drive strentgh to normal/strong or AUTO in BIOS (or use later tweaker software).

Timings generally are the same as bh5.

Mav

 

[K404]

Thanks for those numbers Mav (EDIT: and to Jaffa too..your suggestions have been taken on board as well) Have tried a few Spi runs and...*crosses fingers* things are ok so far. Only 400MHz up from stock though..no reasons to break open the bubbly yet

Need to add a fan, and up my VDIMM before i`ll do any more

K

 

[JAFFA]

Hells bells them timings are a bit wild

A couple of things:-

What's multi are you using?

Which bios?

What was your previous max stable clock on the ram?

Lemme know and I'll see if I can work out some safe boot settings for you.

 

[K404]

ROFL...I was hoping to hit the ground running at 3.2+ under my Mach and reveal all then, but seeing as the whole things gone to the shape of a pear...its an Opto 144 so...x9. BIOS is the Epox 9npa5a18.

Wild timings: do you mean Mavs ideas or my auto settings?

on the RAM with 3.2V I could hit 252 @ 2-2-2-6, but I dont normally go over 250 so I got some headroom. I got a wee bit more VDIMM to play with now (3.28 LOL) so might push them up a bit more. Hopefully VDIMM wont be an issue at all within the next few days

Thanks HermS!

Kenny

 

[JAFFA]

Nah, Mav's timings are sound as one would expect, those auto settings are pretty shocking though

Didn't see that you were running the epox, it's too easy to assume everybody is running with DFI NF4's... sorry my bad. /slap-wrist

To be honest I hesitate to suggest anything for a board I've never even seen, all I can tell you is that the vast majority of people have found that the Max Async Latency and Pre-amble were without doubt the critical factors. The main concern though is that to hit the kind of speeds you're aiming for we're talking about having a HTT of over 350MHz, is the Epox able to hit those kinds of speeds? In theory you should be able to, but the LDT will have to go right down to 2.5 I would think. Perhaps trying the 133 Divider would be an idea.

 

[K404]

Didn't see that you were running the epox, it's too easy to assume everybody is running with DFI NF4's... sorry my bad. /slap-wrist

Thats one of the reasons i`m still using it..coz most folk are indeed using DFI But it is a great board Ive never tried those kind of HTT speeds with this board, but the NF3 board could do at least 315..coz I tried it. I`ll cross that bridge when i come to it

Will maybe try pushing a bit more tomorrow

Thanks for your help!

Kenny

 

[JAFFA]

Awww gutted I couldn't really help you out Kenny dude, I'm sure you'll figure it all out though, you seem like a sharp fella. And yeah, I hadn't even noticed the near total dominance DFi has over the oc market until now, it's become the norm overnight, we need more choice really don't we.

 

[K404]

LOL thanks for the confidence in me! Dont think u aint helped...you have

Once things are working properly..I`ll prob be glad this happened coz I`ll have learned something, nothing got broken (well...yet) and no-one got hurt (well...yet!)

K

 

[K404]

Dear Oh Dear. Somethings badly not right here. Still cant SPi above 2254MHz at 1.5VCore. HT multiplier is set to 3. I`ve SURE i`m not missing something, maybe my board either doesnt quite have a compatable BIOS or maybe the CPU is part borked.

The guy I bought it off had it at 2.7GHz on water with about 1.5VCore. Water doesnt add ~500MHz these days, does it??!

Kenny

Plan A/ Change to the DFI

Plan B/ CPU to Ebay

Plan C/ Computer goes out the window (2nd floor flat)

 

[stocky]

You could change the CPU and board and start with some different ones?

Thats what I do when I get annoyed with certain parts anyway, as you may have a bit of a dud one or the other...

 

[GoLLuM4444]

Go with plan C.