Liquids

Liquids

  • Distilled water

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Distilled water with Silver coil

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Shop bought coolant

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • After market mixed coolants

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1
You know it doesnt really matter right?

Dye does NOT gunk up. Its just algae growth that takes on the colour of the loop.
 
You know it doesnt really matter right?

Dye does NOT gunk up. Its just algae growth that takes on the colour of the loop.

So the real difference between coolants and say plain old distilled water isn't much.

Well other then colour.

Or more meaning, would coolant help reduce the growth of algae and potential corrosion of any iron parts in a computer.
 
Well I currently use pharmaceutical grade deionized water with 2 kill coils in the loop and feser base corrosion blocker 20ml a liter.

In the future I will be using some mayhems premix or dye. Please let me know if I'm doing something wrong here...
 
If you after 100% heat removal go for water + Biocide (pureist). If you after Colour you have 4 to choose from, dye, premix, Nano fluids, or realy fancy silver partcial nano fluids (modder).

If going purest keep an eye on you PH levels as adding to much Biocide into water over a long terms will dammage plating on certains blocks. This is were Pre-mixed coolants have there advantage as they are PH balanced and have stabalisers in them to stop them going out unless some one has a realy crappy acid system.
 
Thanks a lot. I found my pH kit but now I can't seem to find what the pH level in my loop should be
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It's currently @ pH 8,5 is that to alkaline?

I have some Dry pH down powder from GHE which is intended for plants so I ask, would it be ok to use that IF the water is to alkaline??
 
PH is fine . any higher and its to much. It should be arround 6.5 to 8 .5 any more or less is to much.
 
You know it doesnt really matter right?

Dye does NOT gunk up. Its just algae growth that takes on the colour of the loop.

That is not 100% true. color coolant changed a little but the chemical in die can still gunk up. This is seen more often in rigs that have been off for a while. It is not algee, just a seperation between water and color. In fact I had this EXACT thing happen with Koolance coolant in my res. after a while the chemical in the color started to gunk up.
 
I use an EK Premix. It's the Blood Red one. Cost me about £5 for 1 Litre and that is exactly how much it took to fill my entire loop. Bargain really.
 
That is not 100% true. color coolant changed a little but the chemical in die can still gunk up. This is seen more often in rigs that have been off for a while. It is not algee, just a seperation between water and color. In fact I had this EXACT thing happen with Koolance coolant in my res. after a while the chemical in the color started to gunk up.

Dyes dont separate inhibitors separate.... Mind you if you mix two incompatible dye you will get a chain reaction but that then becomes a manufacturing fault.
 
This is one thing we spent a good few years experimenting with and talking to chemists and colorists about to find out which dyes are compatible with which products. Mayhems only use dyes that can be mixed with each other with out causing a mess in some ones system. Out of over 200+ different types of dyes we have tested we only have a sub set of 10 different ones we use because of incompatibility.
 
Hi, all.

I was about to create a new post/thread about this, but I am glad I did a quick search first. So, I have a few questions about coolant, more than color.

Is distilled water really the best coolant? I have seen how people are making fish tank rigs filled with baby oil. If used in loop with rads, I can see how a pump might need to work harder to move the fluid, but does it disperse heat better than water? How about using radiator fluid, like a car's radiator? I'm more of a mechanical guy, and just making references to things I know.

If water truly is the best way t go, I'm happy to use it. Although, on some of Tom's YouTube videos about how to create a water cooled system, he mentions nonconductive fluids. What would those nonconductive fluids be? I would rather use those for my first water build so that if something were to leak, it wouldn't fry my brand new $$$ costing system!

Also, when flushing out new rads before installation, is there any harm in using tap water (or filtered water from say, a Britta filter)? Could contaminants in the water gunk up in the rad and not be able to be flushed out with a run of clean distilled water?

Thanks for any insight you might be able to share.
 
The only "Real" none conductive fluids are not with in the normal price range of any thing you would consider. We have some 3M product here but it will set you back between £45.00 to £125 Per Kilo (1/2 Ltr approx) depending on which one you would like. All so they are 4x heaver than water and all so require specialist equipment to run.
 
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