Is my pump good enough?

steverebo

New member
Ok Im upgrading my case and cooling loop expanding it quiet a bit but Im concerned my pump might not be up to the challenge. Specs below:

Laind DDC 1T 10w 420lph 3.7m head

My new loop will contain:

2 x UT60 360 rads, 1 x 30mm 280 rad, Supremacy evo cpu, gtx 1080ti waterblock, EK X Res 250

so am I asking too much of my little pump???
 
That's because there really isn't one. I think you'll be just fine. I could run my rig on a single D5 pump and I had 4 360 rads + CPU block + 2 GPU blocks + 2 pairs of quick disconnects, etc. As long as the flow is above a certain rate, you're good. My D5 vario on speed 5 could pump 1.7LPM through a pretty complicated system without issue. If I were you, I would upgrade without fear. :)
 
isnt it defined by head pressure, and how far it can push water up, if that makes sense. That said if anyone knows how it works out it will be tom.
 
isnt it defined by head pressure, and how far it can push water up, if that makes sense. That said if anyone knows how it works out it will be tom.
Yeah, sort of, but there really is no magic number that I've heard with any consistency. I've heard as long as you're over 1LPM, you're good, and you don't necessarily benefit from higher flow rates. But I have year to hear any consistent agreement among water coolers what that magic number is.
 
Ye, i think head pressure is just a here this is what it can push, at the end of the day if you did 2 loops, one that looks like spaghetti junction and the other thats clean short lengths with as little resistance as possible, then you can have 2 identicle systems but the flow and pump will have an easier time on the clean one.

So its situational.
 
This is exactly why I asked here as there is a huge pool of knoledge. over the years Ive never seen a magic calculator and watched different debates over flow rates ect. I know that head pressure (how far the pump can push vertically) is the most important factor and that flow rate makes little difference as long as the water is moving but my confusion has always been how much head pressure is required when does the pump hit F"£$ it and struggle to push the water through the system
 
This is exactly why I asked here as there is a huge pool of knoledge. over the years Ive never seen a magic calculator and watched different debates over flow rates ect. I know that head pressure (how far the pump can push vertically) is the most important factor and that flow rate makes little difference as long as the water is moving but my confusion has always been how much head pressure is required when does the pump hit F"£$ it and struggle to push the water through the system
But do you even have a flow meter in your system that can give you flow numbers? Most people don't, therefore it's almost impossible to know without just trying it and keeping an eye on things. This is why I have a flow meter, and multiple coolant temp sensors. :) Tom frowns on stuff like that, but they provide good info, at a cost of course.
 
should be fine, DDC's are tough little pumps.

RE:"multiple temp sensors" that's because you don't need them. The fluid temp shouldn't vary by more than 0.5~1 degC in throughout the entire loop, if it does you have a serious problem. There's this common misconception that the water goes in the radiator hot and comes out cold.. that's not how it works. The fluid is moving far too quickly (or at least it SHOULD be) for there to be any real temperature differential.
 
SuB: I was more referring to the flow rate sensors, but I like having both. "Need" is not a factor, but having a "hot" and a "cold" sensor showed me some interesting info, like the temp difference of the fluid after passing through 4 360 rads. But the flow sensor can come in handy if your loop is slowly clogging up over time. Eventually, a clogged block will reveal itself via high component temps, but a flow sensor can show that problem at the beginning, before it gets to the clogging point.
 
SuB: I was more referring to the flow rate sensors, but I like having both. "Need" is not a factor, but having a "hot" and a "cold" sensor showed me some interesting info, like the temp difference of the fluid after passing through 4 360 rads. But the flow sensor can come in handy if your loop is slowly clogging up over time. Eventually, a clogged block will reveal itself via high component temps, but a flow sensor can show that problem at the beginning, before it gets to the clogging point.


Just sounds messy to me
 
Just sounds messy to me

It can be done neatly, but not to your standards, since you don't like 5.25" bays. :D I know you prefer a much cleaner aesthetic, but I prefer to know as much as I can about what's going on in my loop. With the Koolance flow meters I use, you can tuck those away into the back of the case and hide them, or output to a 5.25 bay display. If I wasn't so lazy and useless with modding, I could make it much cleaner.
 
With a single 360mm radiator you can easily have your fans spinning at 600 RPM while idle and 800 RPM while under load with a system as simple as that. That's very quiet; not silent but very quiet. Your temperatures won't be amazing, but you don't need amazing temperatures. You just need to find the sweet spot between fan speed and coolant temperature. You absolutely have way too much radiator for that small of a system, and your pump is not ideal either.

By the way, how on earth did you manage to fit 2 x UT60 360's and a 30mm 280 in a H440?!
 
Back
Top