How to Overclock Athlon XP's - The Basics

muffin

New member
The Parts

To begin with, you will need a computer that is actually capable of changing options in BIOS. Pre built machines such as Dell, Emachines etc. generally do not allow BIOS settings to be changed.

All processors are capable of overclocking, just some respond to tweaking better than others. For example, Palomino core chips will not overclock well at all, wheras Barton cores are very good. Without doubt the best XP overclockers are the Mobile chips. These are intended for use in laptops, and so have an unlocked multiplier to allow the system to scale the speed of the chip in relation to power requirements, thus conserving battery life. The chips are also able to run at lower voltages (meaning less heat dissipation) than their desktop counterparts. All of which adds up to great overclocking potential.

The motherboard plays a huge part in overclocking, as it controls and determines the frequency all the components operate at. The best overclocking motherboards use Nvidias "Nforce2" chipset. These have locks on the PCI/AGP bus frequencies, which other chipsets (VIA, SiS) do not usually have. I won't go into why a lock is necessary, just understand you don't want the PCI/AGP frequencies to change.

RAM is another big part of overclocking. The RAM has to be able to keep up with the CPU for a good overclock, as XP chips seem to like 1:1 RAM/CPU frequency. The speeds of RAM are set at typical CPU operating speeds, ie.

PC2100 = 133MHz

PC2700 = 166MHz

PC3200 = 200Mhz

PC3200 is the standard for overclocking XP chips, although lower rated RAM can sometimes surprise and reach decent speeds.

Be aware "Value RAM" will not usually overclock as well as performance RAM. Logical really... :)

What hardware do you have?

To find out if you can overclock, there are a couple of things to do. Firstly, reboot your computer and enter BIOS. To do this repeatedly press DEL (can be others depending on your system, check the manual) until a blue screen appears with lots of menus on it. Generally the mouse will not be functional, so you have to navigate with the arrow keys, also look at the bottom of the screen to see what other buttons do. Navigate around BIOS, looking for options like

CPU Voltage/Vcore

CPU Multiplier

CPU Frequency/FSB

Memory Timings (CAS, CAS to RAS etc.)

DO not change any settings yet, just look to see if they can be changed at all. If you built your PC, or did not buy from retail outlets such as Dell then more than likely you can change the settings.

OK, so you can change BIOS settings. Now download CPU-Z and take a look at what hardware you actually have. You are interested in the CPU name, the Motherboard chipset and the RAM speed. If you see Barton, Thoroughbred or Thorton anywhere on the CPU tab then your in luck. Couple that with Nforce on the Motherboard tab and PC3200 on the RAM tab and we're in business. If you don't have 3200 RAM don't worry, as your whatever RAM you have can be overclocked (even if its only a small amount), but it will be a major factor in limiting your overclock potential.

Other points before overclocking

Heat is the enemy! If you have stock cooling, then overclocking A) won't get far and B) is not advised! Upgrading the cooling is about the cheapest thing you can do with a sktA machine. ThermalTakes Volcano12 is recommended as a budget option. For people with more money to throw around then a Thermalright SLK-947 or SI-97 will be excellent. Note the ThermalRights are heatsinks only, and do not come with a fan, this needs to be purchased separatly. High CFM is essential - Panaflo, YS-Tech, Vantec and Delta all make good fans. Try and balance CFM with noise depending on your needs.

Power - a poor power supply (PSU) will kill an overclock. As a general rule - True 400W minimum and 25Amps+ on the 12V rail. "True 400W" means that the lowest power supplied is 400W, and peak can be anything. XMS has a PSU rated at 600W, but it puts out just ~280W usually, the 600W rating is its peak power. Less reputable manufacturers list Peak wattage wheras good makers list the units true power capability. Good manufacturers are Antec, Enermax, PC Power and Cooling, Fortron, OCZ, and for a cheap option the Hiper TypeR is excellent! ;)

The process of overclocking

Basics - The operating speed of the computer is determined by FSB x multiplier - so 166 FSB x 12 multiplier = 1992MHz and so on.

If at any time the computer just fails to start at all, you have pushed too far too fast, and need to clear CMOS. This can be done by unplugging the power lead, pressing the ON button to discharge capacitors, removing the BIOS battery from the motherboard for 2-3 minutes, then replacing the battery and powering on. A lot of motherboards have a jumper that you can just switch over to clear CMOS instead, check your motherboard manual for its location. Clearing CMOS simply resets everything in BIOS to its default (original) settings, so you just start again or go to the last good settings you remember.

Reboot and go back into BIOS using the same method as before. Locate the options you should have checked for already - the CPU Frquency/FSB, the CPU voltage and the multiplier. The multi only applies to mobile chips, as it is locked on desktop CPUs. All of these options should be in the same section, especially if you have a DFI, Asus or Abit board.

What you need to do is raise the FSB in small increments (2 or 3 at a time), then save the changes (usually F10) and reboot. Keep going in this cycle until the OS fails to load, or freezes/crashes after the welcome screen. This means the system is unstable, and needs more juice. This is where the Vcore comes in. Raise the voltage to the CPU by 1 step, the smallest amount your motherboard/BIOS will allow. Save changes and see if the computer works properly, if not then reboot and raise the voltage a little more. Just because Windows has loaded does not mean its stable! The best way to test whether its stable is to do what you want the computer to do, if it does not crash then its stable. For me, I play games, so a few hours of CS:S is stable enough for me.

Do not go above 1.85 Vcore on good air cooling - always keep an eye on your temperatures!

The load temerature is the most important, this is where the CPU is 100% in use and at its hottest. XP CPUs can handle up to 85-90C, but running that hot will reduce their life. Try to keep full load temperatures below 60C at most, ideally less than 50C. MBM5 is a good temperature monitoring program, but nothing can beat a probe sat next to the core for accuracy. The temperature should also be displayed in BIOS, but its hard to get 100% load in there.

For mobile users - The multiplier is adjustable for you, set it to 11 or 11.5 for the best results, but just experiment to see what works better for you.



Pictorial of me overclocking


1) Enter BIOS



2) Increase FSB by 3



3) Save changes



4) Windows loads



5) Running Super PI to 1m digits to check for initial stability



6) Super PI passes



7) Reboot and up the speed (I'm just jumping ahead, you keep going in small steps)



8) PI passes again, reboot



9) Keep FSB going and increase Vcore as needed until;

A - Your load temperature is too high

B - You have reached 1.85 Vcore

c - The machine is unstable/will not boot no matter how many volts you put through it.

10) Once you think you've hit that wall, further test for stability, I'm going to play CS, you do whatever you want to be able to do
 
Beautiful =D

now I can host that much more spyware hehe...

on a serious note, i can control my multiplier and my FSB, the multiplier was pre-set to 13 which I lowered to 11.5 (read somewhere that ur better off lowering multiplier and raising FSB as opposed to vice versa, and article said that 11-11.5 is ideal i believe), and I managed to rack my FSB upto 180, my system is running at a fair 51 C... Now when I try to go past 180 FSB my system gets screwy... specificly it doesnt even get into loading windows... (just a black screen after the comp's info is printed, the one right before it starts loading windows)... I've tried raising the voltage by as much as .1 (from 1.6 all the way to 1.7) for a meager 2 units of FSB and still nothing... if I try to move my multiplier upto 12, well, i only tried once, but my system would still get screwy and BIOS would freeze about 2 seconds upon entering it so I had to reset CMOS... anyway, ideas?
 
yoni45 said:
now I can host that much more spyware hehe...

on a serious note, i can control my multiplier and my FSB, the multiplier was pre-set to 13 which I lowered to 11.5 (read somewhere that ur better off lowering multiplier and raising FSB as opposed to vice versa, and article said that 11-11.5 is ideal i believe), and I managed to rack my FSB upto 180, my system is running at a fair 51 C... Now when I try to go past 180 FSB my system gets screwy... specificly it doesnt even get into loading windows... (just a black screen after the comp's info is printed, the one right before it starts loading windows)... I've tried raising the voltage by as much as .1 (from 1.6 all the way to 1.7) for a meager 2 units of FSB and still nothing... if I try to move my multiplier upto 12, well, i only tried once, but my system would still get screwy and BIOS would freeze about 2 seconds upon entering it so I had to reset CMOS... anyway, ideas?

U are right about the first part, the lower the multi and the higher the fsb = more bandwidth which = faster.

As far as getting stuck at 180 this could depend on a TON of things, and I mean a ton. It could be cooling, ram, processor, motherboard, power supply, pci / agp bus... Let's get some full system specs and then we'll get u cooking with gas :)
 
alright well, fair enough :D

here we have:

Athlon XP 2100+ processor

Asus A7V8X-X mb

256 MB of what I just found out is PC2700 RAM which is odd because it says its a 166mhz max bandwith but it seems to be keeping up with my processor at 178 mhz... maybe i'm missing something...

anyway, vid card is NVIDIA GeForce2 MX/MX 400

2 HDs, 20 gig and 120 gig

any other piece of information i'm missing?
 
your ram has maxed out :) as you say it should only hit 166 and 178 is pushing it.

raise the ram voltage to about 2.8/2.9

if you can run a ram divider and have the ram to run at 160ish if raising voltage does not work
 
Dave said:
your ram has maxed out :) as you say it should only hit 166 and 178 is pushing it.

raise the ram voltage to about 2.8/2.9

if you can run a ram divider and have the ram to run at 160ish if raising voltage does not work

Yup, as Dave said it looks like your ram has run out of steam. Try running a divider or upgrading to some performance memory which oc very nicely.
 
ok that makes sense, I was getting some oddities when it comes to memory last night which are gone now that i set it back to 166... now when upgrading RAM I assume PC3200 is the max one to go for right now (ignoring ddr2 which i doubt my mb supports), what other qualities am I looking for in the RAM?

as well, running a RAM divider, what does that do? both practically and physically so I know whats going on plz :)

also, if I keep the FSB at 166 for now, and raise the multiplier, ideally that gets me a higher clock rate, but if the FSB gives me the bandwith, what does the multiplier give me? would the comp function faster in general but not as fast as FSB would have it run? What are the advantages of raising the multiplier, cuz if there are none, why not keep it even further down so FSB can be shot further up (I know the limitations in my case, but in others, especially with higher bandwith capable DDR2?)

ah, and 1 more thing, if I do get the PC3200 RAM, what are my options when it comes to leaving the PC2700 RAM in? I mean its 256 megs of RAM which seems like a waste to throw out... :(
 
name='yoni45' said:
now when upgrading RAM I assume PC3200 is the max one to go for right now (ignoring ddr2 which i doubt my mb supports), what other qualities am I looking for in the RAM?

yes pc3200 is the way to go, as it is guarenteed to run 200fsb and probs some more. and ddr3 is available only on intel 9xx series chipsets afaik. not something for you to worry about.

as well, running a RAM divider, what does that do? both practically and physically so I know whats going on plz :)

a ram divider stops your ram and your FSB running at the same speed (which we call 1:1) so you can run 5:6 divider for example......

if you FSB is 180 then 180/5=30

30*5=150

so therefore your ram would be running at 150. maybe somebody else can guide you towards the right seting for your mobo.

also, if I keep the FSB at 166 for now, and raise the multiplier, ideally that gets me a higher clock rate, but if the FSB gives me the bandwith, what does the multiplier give me? would the comp function faster in general but not as fast as FSB would have it run? What are the advantages of raising the multiplier, cuz if there are none, why not keep it even further down so FSB can be shot further up (I know the limitations in my case, but in others, especially with higher bandwith capable DDR2?)

higher clock speed = faster performing computer

so if you have 200x10 then your clock speed is 2ghz (simple stuff)

however if you had 250x8 then you clcok speed is still 2ghz, but your memory is running faster so you have more bandwidth? comprende?

in your case though, if you cant raise FSB due to ram then you should raise multi to get those higher clock speeds for more performance.

the choice comes into it when you say "well my chip can reach 2ghz, but do i run 200x10 or 250x8" in your case just raise multi and see what happens :)

ah, and 1 more thing, if I do get the PC3200 RAM, what are my options when it comes to leaving the PC2700 RAM in? I mean its 256 megs of RAM which seems like a waste to throw out... :(

if you leave that ram in then you might aswell not buy any at all

"a chain is only as strong as its weakest link"

so when your fsb hits 170, your pc3200 will be coping fine, but the pc2700 will not and therefore you will not boot, pointless to say the least :)

any more questions chuck em this way dude
 
aah, PC3200 only has a 200 FSB!? for whatever reason i thought it was considerably more (the number 333 came to mind =/)

Anyway, what kind of effect does running the RAM at a frequency different than the CPU have overall on the comp?

Dave said:
higher clock speed = faster performing computer

so if you have 200x10 then your clock speed is 2ghz (simple stuff)

however if you had 250x8 then you clcok speed is still 2ghz, but your memory is running faster so you have more bandwidth? comprende?

in your case though, if you cant raise FSB due to ram then you should raise multi to get those higher clock speeds for more performance.

the choice comes into it when you say "well my chip can reach 2ghz, but do i run 200x10 or 250x8" in your case just raise multi and see what happens :)

ok, well i got that much, but my question is what kind of performance gain do u get by raising the multiplier? and what is it compared to the performance gain you would get as opposed to raising the FSB?
 
The FSB of the Athlon XP is double pumped.

200MHz x2 = 400MHz FSB = PC3200 (200MHz x2)

166MHz x2 = 333MHz FSB = PC2700 (166MHz x2)

133MHz x2 = 266MHz FSB = PC2100 (133MHz x2)
 
name='yoni45' said:
heh i aplogize but, what does this mean for me? :o

It means you get PC3200 (decent stuff for overclocking) and it is at 200 FSB which is then x 2 to make DDR400. I would suggest OCZ Platinu Rev 2
 
why not nick?

running th ram slower than FSB has a detrimentl effect on the system bandwidth and has less performance, however if the clock speed gained by said divider raises the performance then you need to find that sweet spot in the middle :)

raising the multiplier = higher clock speeds = more performance

raising the FSB = higher clock speeds = more performance

howeevr if both are at the same clockspeed like i explained before, then 250x8 will be better performing than 200x10. In real life performance you probably will only notice a few FPS dropepd in games, but still fgor benching, then there is a noticable diference.
 
Back
Top