Ham's SS Build Log **56k**

Fine with my standards Ham,

Flux is what you apply first to clean the joint of sorts if your not using self-fluxers. When your done wipe off the joint with a wet sponge.
 
First you clean the parts with sandpaper to rough them up or use a wire brush.

Than you brush on the flux to prep the surface for the solder.

(whenever there is bare metal it oxidizes immediately so thats what the flux is for)

Than you assemble the parts heat the fitting and touch the xolder to the joint and allow it to flow into the joint.

Your joint has way too much solder. Dont be tempted to use too much heat or it will crystalize the solder and make a weak joint.

Here is a place that can help a little.

http://www.bernzomatic.com/bernzomatic/consumer/jhtml/index.jhtml?_requestid=111097
 
He's not using solder, he's brazing. Solder does show those properties, but with self-fluxing rods you almost always get that neighboring brown.
 
I braze with the same MAPP minus the ajustable bit. MAPP is more then enough even for the thickest copper (may just take longer).

I can do a 3/8" joint between 2 pipes and a coupler in under 10 seconds.

I have the same MAPP / OXY torch and I find it worse due to the bad tip selection.
 
name='markkleb' said:
Why is he using braising rod to do a soldering job with a soldering torch?:eek:
Click to expand...

Soft solder isn't strong enough to take the pressures of a ref unit. Demoed by the fact u can cut it with a knife, where as what im using bearly scratches.

And my torch cost £40, every oxy set ive seen costs £100+.
 
Do you have a link to someone that says solder isant strong enough.

Here the kit is $50 US. Im not sure about the transfer rate. I have sent things to a friend of mine in England and it was not very much for shipping.

(to send a 7" LCD with control box and adapter was like $6 US)

I think they wouldnt like the Oxy tanks or Gas in the mail but if you can buy them there I could send you the Valves/Regulaitor
 
Ask the owner of Dave (PC ICE (a builder)) tower cascade. He used all solder all the time and now tons of people have leaks and cracks in the solder. The cascade actually didnt even make it through shipping.
 
Yep i soldered a leaky water rad and the pressure in that was enough to bust it back open after an hour or two. Had to strip the shroud off at hams and solder it up again so will have to see whether its 3rd time lucky
 
name='llwyd' said:
Yep i soldered a leaky water rad and the pressure in that was enough to bust it back open after an hour or two. Had to strip the shroud off at hams and solder it up again so will have to see whether its 3rd time lucky
Click to expand...

And if it dosn't dads just bought home 6 more brazing rods:).
 
What about silver solder like is used on pipes? It withstands 150 PSI for many years, but that is rigid pipe I guess.

Edit:Not implying people shouldn't braze just a question.
 
name='NoL' said:
Good luck trying to braze a watercooling radiator that has fins! :P
Click to expand...

Yeah, we ripped most of the fins out of that section to get to the leak... This rad is pretty foobared

name='Nagaru' said:
What about silver solder?
Click to expand...

You mean water pipes? No severe temps there im geussing.
 
Yeah we are talking about pressures between a vacuum and 300 psi, as well as temperature changes from room or higher to -40C and colder!
 
Recived word from johann that my flexline, cap tube and filter will be here tomorrow:rocker:
 
Well tomorrow turned out to be today:D

get.php


6m of cap tube, 2 filters and a very nice flex line all from of johann, so imaginary reps for him. I really don't know where i would have got these from if it was't for him.
 
Very nice,

I'm still running a fever so I didnt get to answer your questions Ham, so if you message me today I'm feeling better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top