Haf-x White paint job

[Ralm]

Hi there,

After a while of being bored of my CoolerMaster HAF-X case, I wanted to change it for 2 reasons:
1 - Make it mine and not just another HAF-X.
2 - Give it more contrast, since all black is just too dumb.

So I started thinking on whites and blue stuff, I wanted to keep a bit of the black but not all. I saw some videos of a guy that painted his HAF-X although I didnt like the way he did it 100%.

Then I saw this:

and I though to my self: This looks awesome, this is it.

So yeah, Im paiting it exactly like that for now.

Although I already painted the side panels, I dont like that much the end result because I never painted anything with spray. Basically I did a couple mistakes making the final result not as good as I wanted. I didnt took pictures of it and I wont for now. I might show the end project, the case.

Anyway, today I started with the top plastic part. I'm afraid about it because its plastic. I hope that the paint just doesnt gets off in the end.

Here some pics:

Starting point with it dirty.

Part clean with Benzina.

1st Layer of Primer.

Ok then, so if you have some tips let me know.

I painted that with a paint brush.

My final layers are gona be with spray and Im gona use mtn Hardcore 2 cans and I will give it 3 layers of that, plus 2 layers of enamel paint.

Hope you guys like it,
Ralms

 

[tinytomlogan]

a: please tell me you sanded the plastic

b: please tell me thats plastic primer

c: doesnt matter if you spray after all the brush marks from the primer will show through. Brush = n0000b. you need to sand it all flat and start again


edit:

just looked at pics in high res. Im a sucker for details and that looks really bad mate

 

[Ralm]

a: please tell me you sanded the plastic

b: please tell me thats plastic primer

c: doesnt matter if you spray after all the brush marks from the primer will show through. Brush = n0000b. you need to sand it all flat and start again


edit:

just looked at pics in high res. Im a sucker for details and that looks really bad mate

First, I didnt sand it exactly because of the marks it would leave, and the primer said that you dont need to. I clean it with benzina.

About the primer I didnt had it at sale in spray anywhere, I mean anywhere, and I used a painting brush, the ones you use on oil paitings, and no there is no marks from it. It may look like it but it isnt. Even so its first layer, you never get/need to have it all white as a end product.

And yeah, ofc that is a plastic primer, Im not stupid, I got informed about it.

The part is just 1 hour dry and I think the primer is doing is job quite well.

I will give it another layer of primer in 3 days because of some places where was harder for the primer to stick and then I will wait 3 to 4 days to let it dry properly. I will test it then, if looks good and strong I will go with the final layers.

Tom, I promise you that this paint brush left no marks. If I was rich I would go there to show you personaly lol.

 

[airdeano]

First, I didnt sand it exactly because of the marks it would leave, and the primer said that you dont need to. I clean it with benzina.

the marks the sanding leaves is what the paint binds to. what painter's call
"a tooth" or the "paint bites into the surface".

as the surface primer makes a barrier to allow the color coat or paint primer
to attach itself to. because the plastic is smooth, normal paints will just coat
the surface and not bind to the surface making the paint flake and easily
scratches to the plastic.

if the sanding leaves deep enough gouges, you are using too rough a
grit sandpaper. usually a 120-180 grit or a RED Scotch-Brite pad works well.
for metal surfaces 50-80grit. depending on the delicatiousy of the material
whether a "scuff" or full sanding action is what gives better results.

the use of a non-sanding primer is usually for multi-purpose or patch jobs
for a quick "color", but for someone to marvel at a lustious paint job there
will be sanding involved and usually lots of it...

i don't think the owner of the white HAF-X did all that in a weekend. prolly
4-5 weekends or a full week straight... if its all paint. powder-coating and
sandblasting can speed it up alot..

airdeano

 

[reeper250]

You MUST sand metal and plastic (pretty much anything) before spray painting otherwise the paint WILL NOT stick properly.

Using a paint brush will end up with an uneven coat and may 'glub' up. I can even tell from the last picture that it is uneven, especially in grooves and corners. Do not rush the painting otherwise you will regret it.

The first picture you showed us of the other HAF-X looks like it's either powdercoated, or the person painting it was VERY good and it took him a VERY long time.

As airdeano stated, "powder-coating and sandblasting can speed it up alot..", and he is obviously correct. Sandblasting is usually quite cheap considering how long it would usually take to hand sand the material, and sandblasting is extremely quick. Powdercoating can be done by yourself if you are confident enough, otherwise it can be quite expensive.

I am speaking from experience here as many of us usually do.

 

[tinytomlogan]

Yeah please dont try telling us you dont have to after we have told you that you DO.

All that paint needs to come off and be done again..... PROPERLY.

 

[Ralm]

Hi there,

thanks for the tips.

I did sand the metal parts but the plastic, since its plastic I didnt though you would need/should do it for some reasons such as leaving marks, whatever sandpaper you use and normaly the primer should be capable of holding to it without sanding.

Even so, I will wait the 3 days, so next friday night I will check and see how did the primer hold up to it. If it gets off easily I might sand it. Honestly I didnt use that much of primer at all, was a very very light coat.

About me applying the primer with a paint brush, as I said before its a oil painters paint brush, is super smooth and leaves no marks. What you see in the picture is the ammount of primer I manage to apply in some places, because the first time I painted the primer was having a bit of a hard time to stick. It took me around 30 min to go around it twice.

Even so, the paint coat that I did with the primer is even all along, the is no inregularities in the coat where you would feel it or even see it if you are looking very close and carefully. I can take more pictures if you guys wish, with better lighting.

I will take your tips and advices in consideration, but since I have it already done, I will wait for it to dry and see the results.

Thanks.

 

[tinytomlogan]

Right for the FINAL time plastic needs prep'ing

It does need sanding. You are talking to people that know what they are talking about.

 

[Ralm]

Ok I get it, jesus relax.

 

[B NEGATIVE]

I have not had a good laugh for ages....since this really..

Marvel at the topography of that paint and what looks like a beaver attack on the mainboard.
Dont be a statistic fella,do a proper job......

 

[reeper250]

B NEGATIVE that is disgusting XD
Obviously too much paint used and no sanding done.
Also, is that heatshrink holding in the tubing ?

 

[tinytomlogan]

Ok I get it, jesus relax.

I was relaxed the first four times I told you......



Like neg said, we are trying to stop you ruining your case and doing a crappy job.

 

[SEBAR]

I have not had a good laugh for ages....since this really..

Marvel at the topography of that paint and what looks like a beaver attack on the mainboard.
Dont be a statistic fella,do a proper job......

What the heck am I looking at here, this was a complete waist of time for this person to mod his stuff. This would have looked 200 times better if we just left it alone, he has some good hardware in there.

 

[tinytomlogan]

If done right it could be great, he just needs to listen to those of us that know what it takes to pull off the job well.

 

[SEBAR]

If done right it could be great, he just needs to listen to those of us that know what it takes to pull off the job well.

TTL you are right, Ralm's project has the potential to look amazing. I was scoffing at the horrendous work done on that Azza case.


BTW Ralm, you really should take the advice that TTL, B NEGATIVE, Reeper250 and Airdeano are giving. They are all very skilled modders and have a lot of experience and knowledge. They have all helped me in the past and have provided excellent advise. They really are only trying to help stop you ruining your case.

 

[B3rni3]

From my own experience of painting numerous parts for my car I can tell you preperation is key to a good finish.

The way I paint stuff is as follows. The principals should be the same whether you are painting car parts or a desktop.

First off clean the part with water, then dry the part. Next up is to lightly sand the part to get a key on the surface for the primer to stick to (usually with a scotch pad or a very fine sandpaper). Mask up everything you do not want paint on. Clean the surface prepaint, this removes any oil or residue left on the part.

Spray an even light coat of primer over the part and leave for 10-15 mins (flash time). Then spray your second coat a bit heavier but do not go mad last thing you want is a run in your primer as this will require more work. Leave that to flash as well then spray your third coat.
The best way to spray is to do a 50% overlap to ensure even coatings and keep your can moving.

Leave for 24-48 hours for the primer to cure fully.

Next is to flat down the primer with some 800grit sand paper and then to 1000 grit to get a flat smooth finish. Once done it is time to spray colour.

Same thing as primer really, 3 coats with 10-15mins flash time between coats.
Leave the paint to dry for another 24 hours.

Last is to put the clear on. Basically the same thing as primer and colour

Leave this to dry before fitting the part. You can leave the part like this if you are happy with it but if you have orange peel and want to go that extra step then follow the next steps otherwise your done.

For orange peel you will need 1500 grit and 1800 grit sandpaper. You will need to leave the clear for a few days to before sanding to leave it go hard. Sand the part with 1500 first and use some water. Keep changing the paper so as to stop it glupping up and scratching the surface. Be careful around edges as it is very easy to burn through the paint. Use a sanding block for wet sanding to help keep the surface flat. It is best not to do this with just your hand. The wet sanding block has a softish side and solid side. Use the softer side with the 1500. Next step is to clean off the part with water. Then use the 1800 grit with the harder side of the block. Sand the whole thing and make sure there is no high or low spots. You want the part to be completely even.

Once sanding is done you will need a polishing compound and a microfiber cloth to polish the part back to a shine because the sanding will make the clear dull. What the sanding does is make the ridges more uniform in height and thus this gets rid of the orange peel effect.

It takes time and patience but it can make things look very good once done right.

Here is a few images of some parts I have done

Hope this helps

 

[B NEGATIVE]

B NEGATIVE that is disgusting XD
Obviously too much paint used and no sanding done.
Also, is that heatshrink holding in the tubing ?

What the heck am I looking at here, this was a complete waist of time for this person to mod his stuff. This would have looked 200 times better if we just left it alone, he has some good hardware in there.

Would you believe he got made an OCN case mod editor with that?

And it won MOTM on OCN.

:headscratch:

 

[SEBAR]

Would you believe he got made an OCN case mod editor with that?

And it won MOTM on OCN.

:headscratch:

You are just kidding, right?

 

[Innocent159]

guy you making a fool out of yourself, i'm a amutar but that's just plain laziness, remove and redo

 

[nepas]

Would you believe he got made an OCN case mod editor with that?

And it won MOTM on OCN.

:headscratch:

He has much worse pics in the build log..........