Gigabyte Z77 Overclocking Guide

Good evening to all
i post this again maybe they are more people who can help me out

i watched the video completly so im starting with 1.245v @stock
and make the first step to 1.200 but is 30 min occt really enough to go then again further down ? if 1.200v is stable maybe to 1.170 or so or is it better to let occt running a lot more time wise? and then say 1.150 will be last stable (tested 30min) bump up to 1.200v for 4.0 ghz?
what are your thoughts please let me know ^^

and then e.g test 1.200v with 4.2 ghz 24 hrs`? ^^

I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.245v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available)
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 no XMP
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Makis said:
Good evening to all
i post this again maybe they are more people who can help me out

i watched the video completly so im starting with 1.245v @stock
and make the first step to 1.200 but is 30 min occt really enough to go then again further down ? if 1.200v is stable maybe to 1.170 or so or is it better to let occt running a lot more time wise? and then say 1.150 will be last stable (tested 30min) bump up to 1.200v for 4.0 ghz?
what are your thoughts please let me know ^^

and then e.g test 1.200v with 4.2 ghz 24 hrs`? ^^

I7-2600K @stock on auto 1.245v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available)
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9 no XMP
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB
Click to expand...
run occt for 30 minutes until you hit a low voltage that it freezes or crashes on then work back, so in your example you go 1.200 > 1.17 > 1.15 > 1.13crash > 1.14crash > 1.15 run it for longer
 
NickHalden said:
Guys,

I was trying a overclock of 4.5GHz, vcore set to 1.290. Temps and vcore were:

http://i.imgur.com/mHjiJGq.jpg

But after ~8 min. my system went:

http://i.imgur.com/CVLhxd9.jpg
Click to expand...

you 101 is indicating you need more vcore voltage so add another another +
of voltage in the BIOS.

here is a sandy bridge BSOD code list:

0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage
0x1E = add more vcore
0x3B = add more vcore
0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage
“0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances”
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT
0x101 = add more vcore
0X109 = add DDR3 voltage
0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT)
 
Hi guys, I have few questions, hope you can help me...
Can someone please explain me Internal PLL Overvoltage and CPU Current Capability. What are those settings for and what options should I use?

Thx

Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 & 2600k
 
Just ignore them use Auto also You can turn internal ppl overvoltage on enabled to get more out of your System i think. I have a question what will tinytomlogan say with this 23:20-24 min i dont understand what he wants to say with this like is the way from 1.050 to 1.1 to big but why he makes the step then?
would be very happy if You can help me out!
Greets
 
Makis said:
Just ignore them use Auto also You can turn internal ppl overvoltage on enabled to get more out of your System i think. I have a question what will tinytomlogan say with this 23:20-24 min i dont understand what he wants to say with this like is the way from 1.050 to 1.1 to big but why he makes the step then?
would be very happy if You can help me out!
Greets
Click to expand...

He is refering to going to the original voltage which would of been 1.18 as being a big jump
 
Makis said:
I have a question what will tinytomlogan say with this 23:20-24 min i dont understand what he wants to say with this like is the way from 1.050 to 1.1 to big but why he makes the step then?
Click to expand...

he was eluding to that from the base stock voltage (1.050v) that this should
be a stable voltage to run. but to have the student start @ 1.10v and work
down. he already knew his chip could stay stable @ 1.050v.

so basically, keep decreasing voltage until unstable. now you have found the
least amount of voltage to achive running stock multiplier.
 
Volume said:
Hi guys, I have few questions, hope you can help me...
Can someone please explain me Internal PLL Overvoltage and CPU Current Capability. What are those settings for and what options should I use?

Thx

Asus P8Z68-V Pro Gen3 & 2600k
Click to expand...
PLL stands for Phase-Locked Loop. A PLL is used for timings just like in a digital clock. How does a clock know how long a second lasts? It measures time based on the speed of a precisely controlled flow of electricity. A computer works in the same way - it's needs to know how long a MHz is.

Internal PLL and CPU PLL voltages are completely different settings neither of which you need to worry about unless you are getting into quite advanced overclocking.

The next bit is taken from own experience (I am not an electronic engineer and Intel keeps these things somewhat secret):
CPU PLL is the voltage which is required for a CPU to manage its own clock speed, specifically the Bclk speed. A higher Bclk speed will eventually require a slightly higher CPU PLL to regulate it.
Since overclocking is almost entirely done on the multiplier on z77/p68 it has no requirement to be adjusted. I'd advise that you set it to the increment just under auto (1.75v for me), since all auto voltages are really overvolted at stock. Once you have finalised your overclock you can reduce the CPU PLL even further to reduce core temperatures slightly. For an everyday OC somewhere between 1.5-1.7v is typical.

The internal PLL is what is used to regulate other timings - I believe in relation to Input/Output elements. There is a chance that overclocking can saturate the Internal PLL under certain conditions (very high clock frequencies) and enabling overvoltage can alleviate this but for most people just leaving it disabled is fine. If nothing else is working then give it a try but it probably won't make a difference and it often can interrupt waking from sleep states. I personally have it disabled and my everyday clock is 4.6GHz.

CPU current capability is related to to total amount of watts drawn by the CPU.
Watts= Volts x Current.
Raising it to 110% or 120% can be beneficial in allowing the CPU to draw more power. Beyond about 130% you risk degrading or damaging the CPU.

EDIT: You are using SB and I'm on IB so the numbers will be ever-so slightly higher for you.
 
Last edited:
tinytomlogan said:
Yes we need ALL details as I stated in the video, including a full hardware spec list...... :p
Click to expand...
*I will post pictures later today; I'm a bit busy*

Specs:

2500K
Corsair AX850
Corsair H80, standard fans, push/pull
Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3, rev. 1.3, BIOS F11
Corsair Vengeance 16GB @ 1600MHz, 9-9-9-24-CMDr-1 (manually set, as Tom told us in his video)

Oh, dear Tom... trust me, I did watch the whole video, so I know you told us to post specs. Which I did a few posts ago, but it doesn't really matter. It's much easier for you guys to have both pictures of BIOS and specs, so that's the way I'm going to do it now. :p

Thank you all for being so friendly and helpful.

--

Nick
 
Last edited:
Master&Puppet said:
PLL stands for Phase-Locked Loop. A PLL is used for timings just like in a digital clock. How does a clock know how long a second lasts? It measures time based on the speed of a precisely controlled flow of electricity. A computer works in the same way - it's needs to know how long a MHz is.

Internal PLL and CPU PLL voltages are completely different settings neither of which you need to worry about unless you are getting into quite advanced overclocking.

The next bit is taken from own experience (I am not an electronic engineer and Intel keeps these things somewhat secret):
CPU PLL is the voltage which is required for a CPU to manage its own clock speed, specifically the Bclk speed. A higher Bclk speed will eventually require a slightly higher CPU PLL to regulate it.
Since overclocking is almost entirely done on the multiplier on z77/p68 it has no requirement to be adjusted. I'd advise that you set it to the increment just under auto (1.75v for me), since all auto voltages are really overvolted at stock. Once you have finalised your overclock you can reduce the CPU PLL even further to reduce core temperatures slightly. For an everyday OC somewhere between 1.5-1.7v is typical.

The internal PLL is what is used to regulate other timings - I believe in relation to Input/Output elements. There is a chance that overclocking can saturate the Internal PLL under certain conditions (very high clock frequencies) and enabling overvoltage can alleviate this but for most people just leaving it disabled is fine. If nothing else is working then give it a try but it probably won't make a difference and it often can interrupt waking from sleep states. I personally have it disabled and my everyday clock is 4.6GHz.

CPU current capability is related to to total amount of watts drawn by the CPU.
Watts= Volts x Current.
Raising it to 110% or 120% can be beneficial in allowing the CPU to draw more power. Beyond about 130% you risk degrading or damaging the CPU.

EDIT: You are using SB and I'm on IB so the numbers will be ever-so slightly higher for you.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for this great answer. I wasn't sure is it safe tu use Internal PLL enabled and CPU CC on 110% for 24/7. If I use them I have much more stable overclocks with less voltage.
This is how it works for me:
4300 mhz - 1.200v - Internal PLL Enabled - CPU CC 110% - stable
or
4300 mhz - 1.235v - Internal PLL Disabled or Auto - CPU CC 100% - stable

Looks like these two options make a quite nice difference for my stable oc. What do you recommend for 24/7, what option is more safe to use? More voltage for cpu or...?
 
Volume said:
This is how it works for me:
4300 mhz - 1.200v - Internal PLL Enabled - CPU CC 110% - stable
or
4300 mhz - 1.235v - Internal PLL Disabled or Auto - CPU CC 100% - stable

Looks like these two options make a quite nice difference for my stable oc. What do you recommend for 24/7, what option is more safe to use? More voltage for cpu or...?
Click to expand...
The difference between the two is marginal. You just trade a tiny bit of volts for a few more amps. Not really important either way at 4.3GHz :D They are both safe.

I'm surprised you need Internal PLL enabled at all for that clock though.
 
Thank You for the answers they helped me a lot! So I tested 1,200 1,17 1,15 1,13 all were stable occt Run 35 minutes now im going to 1,11 v say if It failed the Run of occt i go for say 1.12 but how much time i have to let occt Run to really know this is stable? And this refers for the oc to 4 GHz aswell how much time i have to Run occt that i know this is 100 percent stable. It would be nice if You can help me System and other Post You can find in last pages. Really thanks to the nice community.
Greets
 
Makis said:
Thank You for the answers they helped me a lot! So I tested 1,200 1,17 1,15 1,13 all were stable occt Run 35 minutes now im going to 1,11 v say if It failed the Run of occt i go for say 1.12 but how much time i have to let occt Run to really know this is stable? And this refers for the oc to 4 GHz aswell how much time i have to Run occt that i know this is 100 percent stable. It would be nice if You can help me System and other Post You can find in last pages. Really thanks to the nice community.
Greets
Click to expand...

Rather than expecting other to look for your specs dont you think it would be better for you to do it and just copy and paste them into your post above....?
 
I7-2600K @stock on 1.245v cooled with an H80i
G1 Killer Sniper 3 Z77 Bios F8J( Newest available
8 GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600 MHZ CL9
Gigabyte Gtx 670 OC
Samsung Pro 128 GB

Yeah you are right sry but at the moment i have only the s3 for usage but here we go.
Update 1.1 v is also stable now going to 1.09v

tinytomlogan said:
Rather than expecting other to look for your specs dont you think it would be better for you to do it and just copy and paste them into your post above....?
Click to expand...

update/
Update bsod with 1,070 and also 1,080 now trying 1,090 once again how much time do you suggest running occt now ;-)
Update 1,090 v error from occt how is this possible i ran 45 minutes and no error before going down to 1,070v
Occt stopped after 6 minutes with error messages now going to 1,100v
Would be very nice if You could help me ;-)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Master&Puppet said:
The difference between the two is marginal. You just trade a tiny bit of volts for a few more amps. Not really important either way at 4.3GHz :D They are both safe.

I'm surprised you need Internal PLL enabled at all for that clock though.
Click to expand...

I don't need PLL enabled, I'm just saying if I use it I need less voltage for CPU.

Just found sweet spot for myself... 4.5ghz 1.275v in offset mode. Occt runs stable for about 8 hours, I didn't go further.

Big thanks for help
 
In the lga 1155 video, when you turn the voltage down, and test it, how will you know if it is stable when you run occt for an hour, what will indicate it not being stable, and if it isnt stable should i add more voltage?
 
The system would freeze/crash/bsod/sudden restart or too high temperatures. And yes you add more voltage and test it again, just don't go crazy with the voltage :).
 
Froger said:
In the lga 1155 video, when you turn the voltage down, and test it, how will you know if it is stable when you run occt for an hour, what will indicate it not being stable, and if it isnt stable should i add more voltage?
Click to expand...

OCCT will finish the test and have some graphs for your load run. if it fails
running OCCT the test will stop and you can view the graphs for the fault.
or the system will lock-up and thats a fail, or the BSOD (Blue Screen Of Death)
if the test fails or system lock-up or BSOD, try increasing the voltage to the
next level (+.005v) and re-run. small increments and you'll find the right
voltage. it can be long and tedious, but you findout a lot of characteristics
of your processor and how it reacts to certain changes.
 
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