Flow Pro GFX

SiN

New member
As I took apart a broken Sparkle 9800 GT, I decided that I wanted to make something with this cooler. I came up with the bright idea of making it into some kind of water cooling unit. So, this is going to some sort of adventure into the unknown.

Here is the logo/banner thing I whipped up in a minute:

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Here is the cooler:

5082392145_7bb600af70_z.jpg


Copper surface that needs to be lapped:

5082392157_397c58ffdf_z.jpg


Without the fan and shroud:

5082987072_9273dde9eb_z.jpg


Inside of the shroud:

5082397537_c821803e36_z.jpg


I will be posting any progress I make only in this log, this is an OC3D exclusive!
 
Hi,

One idea that can help.

Use a TEC + Copper water reservoir.

Hot side of TEC is cooled with VGA cooler and cold side will chill the copper reservior hence the water inside the loop.

Hope this can work.
 
Hi,

One idea that can help.

Use a TEC + Copper water reservoir.

Hot side of TEC is cooled with VGA cooler and cold side will chill the copper reservior hence the water inside the loop.

Hope this can work.

I'm not looking to make this with anything I can't make from using things from the local hardware store. I want to make it cheap and easy, so people can replicate it, if they wish to do so.

But, thanks for the suggestion, I have definitely thought about using a TEC, maybe in a later project.
 
Update!

Cut off the fins.

5087025199_2917919a8d_z.jpg


The heatsink without the fins.

5087025235_229b77d86a_z.jpg


I chiseled the block to lose the heatpipes soldered on there.

5087025185_85cb5a8688_z.jpg


I sanded the heat-transfer surface with my belt sander, I'll probably add some more solder and make an even surface.

5087025259_c446c9f3dc_z.jpg


I re-used the heatpipes and made two inlets and outlets, I will probably need to cut them even more though.

5087621938_a0fb2d1376_z.jpg


The diameter of the heatpipes, hopefully it provides enough flow.

5087029789_524fea05c3_z.jpg


Not too bad of progress for me in one day, hopefully more coming tomorrow.
 
could you not of suse the block as it was without the fins,so goin in from the bottom pipes and out from the side pipes?

but this looks ok man waiting with antisipation
 
could you not of suse the block as it was without the fins,so goin in from the bottom pipes and out from the side pipes?

but this looks ok man waiting with antisipation

There would have been nowhere for the water to exit and complete the loop.
 
it could of exeted out the sides

Elaborate, please.

This is not a conventional block, seeing as I do not have the proper tools to cut a piece of copper to size. Basically the water will be passing through the heatpipes to transfer the heat from the block directly soldered to the piece of copper touching the dye.

Here is a diagram. (attached)
 

Attachments

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shame cos that would of worked quite well i think,but yes they pipes have gone now.

but i would use the same kinda idea
 
shame cos that would of worked quite well i think,but yes they pipes have gone now.

but i would use the same kinda idea

The main problem is that the copper heatpipes bend with little force, and I feel like they would kink in that fashion. It also doesn't look as refined as what I plan to do.

Thanks for bouncing some ideas off of me though, please proceed doing so!
 
Actually, I may change those heatpipes out for something meatier, seeing as tubing that small will not transfer heat all too well.

I may have to make something, or I will look around in the hardware store/house for usable pieces.
 
Theres not going to be a large enough contact surface with the actual block matey, just a pipe wont cut it with the heat a GPU produces.
 
Theres not going to be a large enough contact surface with the actual block matey, just a pipe wont cut it with the heat a GPU produces.

There is multiple cooling methods to this project, there is two air-cooling elements that I already am planning to implement.

Also, what is up with my avatar switching back and forth? I want to keep it on the Predator thermal vision picture.
 
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