First Time Watercooling

MattBee2k2

New member
Okay, I plan to upgrade around September and just want a general gist of costs and what i'll need to buy.

I plan to upgrade my case from a BitFenix Colossus to a NZXT 810 Switch and my gtx 580 to a gtx 680 most likely.

My original plan was to just watercool the graphics card but i'll probably go with the CPU and Graphics Card.

Now, the help I need is what's best for this setup: To watercool a gtx 680 and an i7 2600k. I don't have an idea of a budget just now, i just want to see what parts for the watercooling setup will be best at a reasonable price.

I was planning on using a 360mm long, 60mm thick radiator on the top and using the corsair SP120s. What would be an ideal pump/res etc for this setup and also would push/pull even be worth it or is 1 set of fans enough?

Thanks ;)
 
What motherboard do you have?

You'll need a 360mm 60mm thick rad really for CPU and GPU. Look at Alphacool UT60 and XSPC RX360s.

Pump wise, you need a D5. Then look for either a pump top and tube res, or a bay res that takes a D5 such as:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop...-ONE-Laing-D5-Pump-New-Product-pid-15903.html

Then waterblocks, pretty much your choice. There's very little difference in performance so get what you like the look of. I'd recommend getting the same brand GPU and CPU block so it keeps the same style throughout - for example, the XSPC Raystorm and Razor 680 blocks, but equally EK blocks, or whatever else you like the look of.

Fittings are your choice really. We tend to like 1/2 barbs with 7/16 tubing here so pick what you like. Tubing wise, assuming you want clear tubing, you should be looking at Masterkleer, maybe Primochill - can't really go too wrong with tubing, except some of the cheaper stuff kinks easier, so maybe avoid the cheaper XSPC.

Coolant wise, don't go for Mayhems Aurora or Pastel. Mayhems X1 I haven't had any problems with, but Tom will tell you to avoid it. Look at the normal XSPC or EK coolants and you shouldn't have any problems.

Push pull doesn't make a great deal of difference. With a 60mm thick rad in the roof, it will be your motherboard that determines whether you can even get a second set of fans underneath.

You'll be looking at around £350/400 if you don't skimp out on parts - possibly a little over £400 maybe. You may want to put in a second rad in the front at some point in the future to improve temps, although for me with a similar set up it didn't really make any difference.
 
Thanks for the quick, in-depth reply. My motherboard is the p67 Sabertooth. Yeah I didn't think push/pull made any real difference since watching Tom's videos on watercooling and such plus 1 set of fans means it'll be quieter and cheaper.

Going with 1/2 barbs and 7/16 tubing is fine with me, after all, I have no preference and I'm new to watercooling.

I was planning on going for some white coolant or black coolant, not too sure yet. Going for a white/black look. Just depends how it all looks at first.

Thanks for the info though, much appreciated. Be great if I could get all this done now haha.
 
Push/Pull will be incredibly tight then. In a Switch, it does slightly overhang the board, so being able to fit push/pull completely depends on heatsinks and RAM slots at the top of the board. I think you'll just get away with it, but it will depend on how flexible you can be with the CPU power connector.

Have a look at barbs and compression fittings then. You may decide you like compression fittings more. 7/16 tubing on 1/2 barbs is an incredibly tight fit so the tubing won't come off, but it does take a bit of effort to get the tubing on. I have to have a hair dryer handy if I'm doing anything with the tubing - but at least you know it's tight and so isn't going to come off.

Things like coolant, fittings and tubing don't really make much difference to performance, so if you want to save money in those areas you can. Just be sure you flush the rads out properly before use, otherwise the tubing may gunk up.
 
Yeah i just watched on of Tom's videos on the XSPC kit and how compression fittings are really handy for those who are new.

Thanks for all the info, it was just so I could get a general idea of costs and that for when it comes to the upgrade and watercooling. No doubt i'll do more research when I have the money in September and make a new thread for ideas If there is a point.

Thanks a lot.
 
Yeah i just watched on of Tom's videos on the XSPC kit and how compression fittings are really handy for those who are new.

Thanks for all the info, it was just so I could get a general idea of costs and that for when it comes to the upgrade and watercooling. No doubt i'll do more research when I have the money in September and make a new thread for ideas If there is a point.

Thanks a lot.

tom replied to one of my topic saying to water cool cpu/gpu properly you're looking at around £350.
 
I have a couple of threads about watercooling in the same case and (will be) nearly the same specs.
I'm going to go a little overkill on mine as I want low as possible voltage on fans and still keep it cool. I've been recommended by a couple of daily repliers like jamesriley to go with a 360x60 and a 240x60.
For some reason though, ive got a list here and ive estimated that it'll cost me around £550-£600, that's not even push pull with the fans.
 
That is costly, I don't plan on going that much. Hopefully it doesn't come near that but as you said you're going a bit overkill.
 
Also does a bigger reservoir do a great deal of difference, is it minimal or any difference?

A larger reservoir doesn't really affect performance.
The bigger the reservoir, the longer the the loop will take to heat up, but the differences will most likely be about a minute...

Pricing wise:
CPU block = 50
GPU block = 100
Pump = 50
Reservoir = 50(?) (if not bay res, pump top = 25, tube res = 25)
Alphacool UT60 = 75
Fittings = 25 (dependant on fittings used of course)
Tubing + coolant + other accessories = 25

Very rough of course - probably overstated a fair few things there...
But that goes to roughly £375.

@Wren - only difference for yours would be an extra 240mm UT60, which is only another £50, so you'd only be looking at £425 really?

You really don't want to skimp out anywhere watercooling though, or you'll just end up spending more in the future, and having the massive hassle of draining everything out - whether it's on hosing, coolant, maybe even if you didn't like the fans if you went for push/pull, and obviously the pump.
 
Did a quick put together of parts, radiator, pump, pump top, res, gpu and cpu block, pricing came to around £320. That's minus the tubing, fittings and coolant just now, so not bad. This is minus fans of course

Another question I have is gpu backplates, what's their purpose? just aesthetics?
 
Did a quick put together of parts, radiator, pump, pump top, res, gpu and cpu block, pricing came to around £320. That's minus the tubing, fittings and coolant just now, so not bad. This is minus fans of course

Another question I have is gpu backplates, what's their purpose? just aesthetics?

They do add a little more stability to the card so it doesn't bend. Often hard to get one that's compatible with a waterblock though as they're generally made for the stock coolers. Some companies also say they provide cooling benefit, although this is only 1/2 degrees C.
 
Yeah figured they were relatively useless in all. Well it seems everything is in check for now, the gist of things anyway. Just the wait until I can upgrade and start.
 
@Wren - only difference for yours would be an extra 240mm UT60, which is only another £50, so you'd only be looking at £425 really?

Here we go, list of components as promised.
Could you guys please check they all work/fit together.

Radiator 1: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 240mm
Radiator 2: Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 360mm
CPU Water Block: XSPC RayStorm
GPU Water Block: EK FC670 GTX DCII
GPU Back Plate : EK FC670 GTX DCII Backplate
Pump: Alphacool VPP655SE Laing D5 Single
Pump Top: Alphacool HF D5 Pump Top for Laing D5 Pumps
Reservoir : Phobya Balancer 150 silver nickel
Tube: 2x Primochill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 7/16" ID - 5/8" OD Clear

Fittings, I have an idea in my head where and how tubes will go and have worked that with what and how many of what fittings will I need. I'd also like there to be a drain port. Here we go:
18x XSPC G1/4" to 1/2" Barb Fitting
7x XSPC G1/4" 90° Rotary Fitting
6x XSPC G1/4" 45° Rotary Fitting
2x Aqua Computer Ball Valve
1x Bitspower Black Sparkle "Q" PLUS Fitting
5x XSPC G1/4" to 7/16" ID, 5/8" OD Compression Fitting
8x XSPC G1/4" 5mm Male to Male Fitting
2x XSPC EC6 Clear Coolant

I do have a weird draining system though, that I don't even know if it'll work + I've added extra fittings around 2 more for each just incase.
Im even thinking about adding a quick disconnect for the draining.
 
I do have a weird draining system though, that I don't even know if it'll work + I've added extra fittings around 2 more for each just incase.
Im even thinking about adding a quick disconnect for the draining.

You're wasting a lot of money on fittings there...
You have way more than you need.

I can probably solve most of your drain idea problems though... The UT60s have a drain port at the other end. If you put it in the floor, you can easily add a drain line in the front with a 90 degree fitting, and that's all you'll really need.
If you want it in the front, then the drain port lines up with the cut out for the fan, so you can just take the bottom dust filter out, put a bucket or something under the case, and unscrew the stopper.

I think you're seriously over thinking a drainline, as in the majority of cases - especially with multiport GPU blocks and radiators, they just aren't needed.
 
You're wasting a lot of money on fittings there...
You have way more than you need.

I can probably solve most of your drain idea problems though... The UT60s have a drain port at the other end. If you put it in the floor, you can easily add a drain line in the front with a 90 degree fitting, and that's all you'll really need.
If you want it in the front, then the drain port lines up with the cut out for the fan, so you can just take the bottom dust filter out, put a bucket or something under the case, and unscrew the stopper.

I think you're seriously over thinking a drainline, as in the majority of cases - especially with multiport GPU blocks and radiators, they just aren't needed.
Haha wow, I did not know that both UT60 240 and 360 had a drain port. I have not seen a picture of it before that's why. Thanks james for letting me know about that, though I was going to be purchasing my fittings at OCUK and I live really close to them and surely ill be able to return some I wont have used.

Anyway, gotta change my planned drawings again :lol:
 
Another question, things are popping into mind of "how would I do this" when watching Tom's Orca build logs. How would a tube reservoir be mounted? is it on top of the pump with a pump top? if so then how do I fix the pump in place? it isn't going to require drilling screw holes is it?
 
Another question, things are popping into mind of "how would I do this" when watching Tom's Orca build logs. How would a tube reservoir be mounted? is it on top of the pump with a pump top? if so then how do I fix the pump in place? it isn't going to require drilling screw holes is it?

It depends what you can do really.
That's what put me off a tube res tbh, cause I couldn't come up with a proper place to mount it...

But...

If you use a normal ATX board in a large case (like the Switch) you have the EATX motherboard holes already, do you can quite easily find a way to use them to mount the tube res.
Or...
If you get a small enough tube res, you can get a double ended male to male thread fitting, and simply screw the reservoir into the top of the pump, as long as the pumps mounted fairly well.

In my Switch, I have the rad in the front, then another fan in the bottom fan mount near the PSU. That way, I can screw the pump top properly to the top of the fan (even with just 1 screw in my case) then it's secure enough to mount a tube res with just the male to male fitting.
 
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