Close contact, high pressure between Prommy head and CPU

Z

ZaX

New member
Hi,

I'm getting a good overclock on my new rig (I gave up on the Albatron PX875P Pro for now) but when I put the side panel on my case it moves the thermal bus slightly which in turn affects the contact between the CPU and the cooling foot :mad:

Anyone have any ideas on this ? I remember reading a guide 'Prometeia Modding: 12 Easy Steps To High Pressure Contact For P4's' but the link is dead at the moment;

http://www.warp2search.net/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=8768

My case is a Lian Li PC65.

Thanks,

ZaX.
 
There's a number of things you might be able to do but the easiest thing might be to make the capillary cut in the case deeper and wider - this would probably give you slightly more room to move the tubing when you put the side panel on.
 
Fixed it !!!!

Hi,

I think I fixed my contact problem :)

I cut up lots of small pieces of cable ties and placed them in the six holes in the shim plate. I remember that much from the '12 Easy Steps To High Pressure Contact' guide I was looking for but couldn't find. I used some seal string to stop them from falling out whilst fixing the shim plate in place (Its funny Prommy users use this stuff for everything!). This has the effect of bringing the cooler foot closer to the CPU hence better cooling and thus bigger overclock :D

Thanks for the tip Phil anyways.
 
ZaX said:
Hi,

I think I fixed my contact problem :)

I cut up lots of small pieces of cable ties and placed them in the six holes in the shim plate. I remember that much from the '12 Easy Steps To High Pressure Contact' guide I was looking for but couldn't find. I used some seal string to stop them from falling out whilst fixing the shim plate in place (Its funny Prommy users use this stuff for everything!). This has the effect of bringing the cooler foot closer to the CPU hence better cooling and thus bigger overclock :D

Thanks for the tip Phil anyways.
Click to expand...

didnt quite understand that myself i have to admitt...

what shim are u talking about?U using an AMD rig?

i never got the chance to read the article you have linked in this thread...its a shame XS is down and i wanted to read something usefull tonight :D
 
Sorry, I meant that metal plate which has the two brass stands on it into which you screw the two screws to secure the evaporator. If you examine it you will see it has 3 rectangular holes on either side. Its these that I 'choked' with cable ties to stop the whole thing from moving around so much. The contact I have now is superb :D
 
Yep the FP of XS was up again today...

I never read that article myself in the past...

reading now, thanks for the link.
 
Argh! hehe.

I need this guide, does anyone have a mirror or any part of the guide at all? I'm having a few problems getting my ST to mount perfectly. CPU temp hits +3C at stock MHz/volts, so something is not right!

Thanks!
 
slim said:
Argh! hehe.

I need this guide, does anyone have a mirror or any part of the guide at all? I'm having a few problems getting my ST to mount perfectly. CPU temp hits +3C at stock MHz/volts, so something is not right!

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Not right indeed mate - You cant have any sort of decent contact at all with those temps mate. Still better than air though :-)

Tell me your exact specs, motherboard etc.
 
Hi Phil :)

I have:

Abit IC7-MAX3

P4 2.8M0 Costa Rica

4 * 256MB OCZ PC4200

2 * Maxtor 120GB 8MB cache (RAID 0)

ATi Radeon 9700 Pro

Generic case (for now)

Must have disassembled this about 15 times now, frustrating :)

I've tried removing/adding washers to the alan key screws. I'm pretty sure I've tightened them up as far as they will go too. I think the problem stems from the excess play in the intel mounting kit. Not entirely sure what to do about it :(

Hopefully, this guide will reveal how to get it sorted!

When I said hits 3C, this is underload with two instances of prime95 running, which I still think is way too high.

In the bios, idling, it reads -14C. In Windows, this creeps up to -21C. But then under load, as above, p4 2.8C @ 1.475v, cpu temp = +3C.

Shout if I left anything out!

Thanks
 
Right ok, firstly, the Max3 temps are totally different to other boards - so when I get -35 on my Asus P4C800-E you can expect -25 or thereabouts. It's just the way Abit do things.

Is that a Prescott you're using, the cpu volts are remarkably low? If you are using a pressie, then there is no problem as they run hotter than any other chips.
 
Nope, it's a 2.8C M0 stepping (reject EE). They have a slightly lower default vcore. Also known as the SL6Z5 :)

My windows temps usually read around 10C lower than the temps reported by the bios.

-10C in bios means -20C~ in windows.

@3.8GHz/1.95v (temps hit 30C and continued soaring. It was pretty unstable and has been unstable at nearly everything i've tried thus far. 3.5GHz wont even prime.

Really need this guide but I think I will take it apart once again tonite and try putting cable ties in the 3 holes like someone else suggested.
 
hmm does seem weird. I'd expect at least 4ghz stable out of that. Maybe you should consider investing in another cpukit just as an idea? I had an Intel one here, and I noticed one of the rubber washers wouldnt go into the evaporator head, so in the end I just ditched the washers on both screws and used the metal ones instead. One thing I have noticed, the kits vary fairly dramatically between batches.
 
Phil aren't fairly and dramatically contradictory? Or are they non-numeric machining tolerance terms ??!! Anyway, I'm hoping the GT kit when it arrives is "well gud" - which is teen-speak

sw
 
Well its the IC7 temp sensor mate

i get -23 or -24C with my P4c800 E

thats iddling with 1.7V overclocked...

At load i used to get - 18C

You know that abit boards show about +10C higher...so here you go..this may be your prob partially

..

if you have followed the instructions carefully you shouldnt have a prob....
 
oh something else as well...the orientation of the top cpu socket plays a big role as well...

Tighten up the screws on the back plate well and then see which way the top cpu plate would make the evap head fit better(biggest area covered)...
 
slim said:
Argh! hehe.

I need this guide, does anyone have a mirror or any part of the guide at all? I'm having a few problems getting my ST to mount perfectly. CPU temp hits +3C at stock MHz/volts, so something is not right!

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with my Mach II and Asus P4C800-E Deluxe but even worse. I had such bad contact the CPU temp reached +60 C and the comp cut out! I fixed it with sections of cable ties forced into the six holes in the metal fixing plate which holds the evaporator head in place as I explained in my previous post. Now the motherboard temp monitor in the Bios reads -30 C :)

Keep on trying that link I posted above, their site is sometimes down.
 
standin wave said:
Phil aren't fairly and dramatically contradictory? Or are they non-numeric machining tolerance terms ??!! Anyway, I'm hoping the GT kit when it arrives is "well gud" - which is teen-speak

sw
Click to expand...

It's non-numeric machining tolerance terms mate.
 
With my Mach II ST I get -35 idle and -27 load 1.7v @4GHz.

Shame I don't have a thermal probe that goes negative as these seem extra low. I have tested before with positive temps and it is always within 1-2ºC of the probe.

Anyhow you can tell if you have a good contact by the ceramic paste imprint on the head surely?
 
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