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  #11  
Old 09-03-21, 02:56 PM
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If it is anodized you really ought to remove that first. Oven cleaner gets rid of it. And yes, even if it's silver it will still be anodized to stop it corroding in the air.

If it's raw metal you will need to blow it with self etching primer first. If you don't it will literally side off afterward. Then go into primer.

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  #12  
Old 10-03-21, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlienALX View Post
If it's raw metal you will need to blow it with self etching primer first. If you don't it will literally side off afterward. Then go into primer.
im not trying to undermine you Alien but Etch and Wash primers are now pretty old school in the automotive painting industry but i do get that if your going to be painting at home you may not have access to a compressor and a paint gun or may not want to spend the extra money on different products but epoxy primers and sealers are the products 90% of painters now use for bare metal because it has a lot of advantages over etch primers.

Etch primer: -

Positives - good for bonding to bare steel and aluminium, cheap and easy to get hold of.

negatives - not waterproof, can not apply 2k fillers over the top of it as putting a 2k filler over the top of it will soften the etch primer and they will both stay soft afterwards. This is not so good in the automotive industry as the filler is not sealed on both sides from moisture. i get here it in the computer world it wont be so much of an issue but id still rather do any filling over paint than on to bare metal

Epoxy primer: -

Positives - will stick to bare steel, copper, aluminium, galvanised steel, aluminium alloy. 100% waterproof so good for long term projects that may sit around for a while, can apply filler over the top of epoxy primer with no issues, has a 24 hour to 48 hour time frame before over painting it without the need to key the surface up. you can also paint it wet on wet if needs be (you paint over it after its flashed off meaning you dont have to wait for the epoxy to dry before apply a standard primer or colour)

Negatives - the only two drawbacks with epoxy i can think of are the fact you really need to apply it with a paint gun although you could apply it with a paint roller or paint brush and its a bit more expensive than Etch or Wash primer
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  #13  
Old 10-03-21, 03:56 PM
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You are supposed to use a sealer.

It was good enough for BOM so it's good enough for me tbh. Like I said, you don't even use a whole coat of it. Just literally a dusting for your primer to grab to.
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  #14  
Old 10-03-21, 05:30 PM
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Car spray shop is the way if its a very specific colour tbh
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  #15  
Old 10-03-21, 06:43 PM
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Wow, I appreciate all the responses

I'm not in a rush to get this done so I may try out a few test pieces, see how they come out but also get some quotes from a spray shop
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  #16  
Old 11-03-21, 02:15 PM
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Thing to remember if you DIY is acid etch and normal etch primer are different.

If you use etch primer you need to make sure that you use a normal primer over the top because it can react with the colour coat and cause blisters

Acid etch will adhere better though - if the case is annodised you will need to make sure you spend a lot of time sanding the case first - it needs to look dull before you start the painting
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  #17  
Old 18-06-21, 08:05 PM
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Ta Daaaaa!!!! All done

Got it done by a custom spray shop in KY0 Silver with carbon accents at the front and top I/O strips.

I'm fairly please with the result







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Old 19-06-21, 12:10 PM
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Looks nice. I'm looking forward to seeing hardware in the case.
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  #19  
Old 20-06-21, 06:19 AM
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Thanks man, This was the main thing for me to get out of the way so i can then start mocking up hardware inside and decide on the rads I want and where to put them.
Next up will be trying to get a 3090, if they exist at all XD
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