PSU Cable Sleeving
 

Hey guys, I'm really interested in individually sleeved cables, but I'm kinda confused about the whole ATX pin and locking flaps thing. Can anyone clarify for me? Because in many guides, they mention pressing it in and stuff

Aside from that, I'm also unsure as to whether or not you can sleeve the default cables

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1599965

This thread shows making new cables .-.

So do you sleeve existing cables? If so how do you remove the wires from the connector block? (Just pull)

Also, if it proves to be too much work, I wouldn't mind buying sleeved cables, from like corsair or nzxt. The corsair ones seem to paired to specific models though. Does anyone know if I'm going to be able use the replacement cables on my XFX P1-850B-BEFX ?

http://www.corsair.com/us/power-supp...ssories-1.html

You can definitely sleeve existing cables. You just need a specific tool to be able to get the pins out of the connector. This is by far the best one that you can use for ATX pins (Ie the 24 pin, PCI-e pins etc):

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...e-original.htm

This is the best because the company that designed the pins in the first place also designed this. You can get cheaper ones but they tend to to be flimsy and break.

Basically on the side of your ATX pins, there are small tabs. These tabs are joined to the actual pin and are digging into the plastic of the connector on each side of the hole. When you use this tool, you stick it in there so the two pointy bits are horizontal, this depresses these tabs on the pin, which lets it slide out of the connector. It can be easier to push the wire in as you also push the tool in, to make sure that the tabs have not actually got stuck in the plastic.

It is a lot of work, a whole PSU could take you a good chunk of the day to finish.

An advantage to doing it yourself however is that you get to choose the style and your colour combinations. There are two styles to it:

With or without heatshrink (Found the picture on overclock.net) :

http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c2/c2dbe14c_photo103.jpeg

As in that picture, you can choose the colour combinations. Many of the pre-sleeved cables you can buy are sleeved in just one colour, but if you do it yourself you can personalise it.

yea. I actually bought the mdpc sleeving 2 hrs before your post :) figured it would be more fun

Much better is without heatsink, I mean that is only to hold sleeve.
It;s not important to look on that. That part is worse pain for me than remove pin from connectors. Because they never can be same.
And during bent after some tome start to look bad.

what about molex pins tho? do they work the same way? :D thanks for answering

They are nearly the same. You need a different tool for those:

http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sle...-my-wallet.htm

This tool is much cheaper than the other one, and as it is round, just push it over the pin in any way and you can pull the pin out. One end of the tool is for male pins and one is for female pins.

how do you sleeve double wires tho? :/

you can fit two wires into one sleeve run if absolutely necessary.

If you can do that, then I'd definitely recommend that route. However, it's
not always possible (I'm currently working on a sleeving job where I can't
do this because the wires are too thick). In that case you can either try to
do two fully sleeved separate wires leading into one connector and then use
a piece of heat shrink (or something else, I'm using nylon cord, see HELIOS
build log for more info) to hold it all together.

If you have enough space in the connector, you could possibly also do two
separately sleeved wires and melt them onto the connector, but I'm not sure
if that would work.

Or you can do something like this:



However, I'm not completely sure if I'd recommend this version in all circumstances.
Oftentimes, the second wire in a double wire is a so called sense wire, which
is used for the PSU's voltage control and regulation mechanism. If the end
point of that wire is no longer at the crimp, but instead somewhere back along
the wire carrying the current, you might get false voltage readings off that
sense wire and throw your PSU's voltage control off. I'm not sure how pronounced
this effect is though, and I haven't read about anyone having problems yet,
but then again I doubt anybody has done serious testing on this.

why do the connections have double wires? (really confused about this)