Tools and Parts for a Phase Change System

NoL

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NoL's Mini Guide to Phase: Part 1

---Tools of the Trade:---

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# = Required tool

---Common Sense ###: This is easily the most important item when building phase change units. Common sense can save your life. It's not easy to buy though, so this helps keep our hobby limited. :P

---The Manifold Gauge Set #: This is the most fundamental item of building phase change units. Normally a brass or other metal setup with two gauges and 3 hose ports. Normally one gauge is for your high side, and measures 0 to 250-500. One gauge is your low side, and measures normally around -30 to 150-250. The center port is for your charging hose.

---Tube cutter #: If your building ur own system your going to need the tube cutter. Open it up, slide it over your tube, and crank down till the cutter touches the tube. Spin the cutter around the tube, then crank again. Slowly press into the tube and make circle's cutting through the tube.

---Vacuum pump: Now the vacuum pump pulls your vacuum before you purge and charge with refrigerant or other gas/liquid. It's technically not required as a spare compressor with access valves brazed to suction and discharge can work perfectly for positive pressure and vacuum.

---Brazing rods and Torch #: This is something people consider scary, but brazing is quite fun. Propane torches are not really that hot, so most people on a budget buy a $40.00 MAPP torch at there local home improvement store. For brazing rods, try to find ones with 15% silver, Silfos 15 and Harris 15 rod's are quite good.

---Charging hoses #: These attach to your Manifold set and everything else. Your classic Red/Blue/Yellow are there colors! Yellow is for charging, Red is for High side, Blue is for low side. Common sense.

---Butane lighter: Also not a required item, but if your purging or leak testing with propane, waving the butane lighter or zippo around by the joints can help find a leak. Keep flames away from your vacuum pumps discharge though, it can make quite a flame thrower if your using an old compressor.

---BASIC PARTS LIST---

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* = Required part of Phase Change System

---Compressor *: Two types for single stages, RECIROCATING and ROTARY. Reciprocating compressors are normally shorter, they are more often seen in single stages because of that short-ness. They are also normally not as powerful. Rotary compressor's are tall and pull a deeper vacuum then most reciprocating, this makes them ideal for cases when multiple evaporators or just a lower boiling point is wanted.

---Desuperheater coil: In its most basic form its a length of tubing wound into a coil to help remove heat from the compressed gas before it hits the condenser. It also helps dampen vibration.

---Condenser *: This item looks like a radiator and almost acts like one. The condenser normally has a fan that blows across it. This lowers the temperature of the compressed gas and allows it to condense into a liquid. Make sure your condenser is flowing downward to make sure compressed liquid does not well up.

---Filter/Drier *: In a single stage this is required. All it does is filter the gas and remove moisture, but don't just crack these open and install them later. Since they absorb moisture leaving them open will ruin them.

---Capillary line */*: The capillary line limits the flow of liquid refrigerant to the evaporator. A shorter length will allow more refrigerant into the evaporator and a longer length will allow less. This can be replaced with other forms of metering like the CPEV.

---Evaporator *: Some call it the head, others call it the "Place you dont want to lick". This is where the compressed liquid refrigerant evaporates and removes heat from the surrounding. If you want to know why this works, take a Chemistry class and ask about potential energy during a phase change from liquid to gas. Don't ask me, I don't have the time to explain it. ;)

---Flex line */*: This is the bendy hose that people see that allows us to swivel our evaporator heads around, its also the suction line.

---Accumulator: Liquid refrigerant that makes it back to the compressor can damage it overtime, the accumulator catches all the refrigerant off the suction line and forces all liquid to evaporate before it can enter the compressor. These are normally found on rotary compressors.

---Heat Exchanger, HX, SLHX: A heat exchanger in a cascade is where the magic occurs. Your first stages refrigerant boils off here and condenses the 2nd stages. The SLHX is a suction line heat exchanger and is basically just an extra way to help condension.
 
Nice work mate! Reps headed your way.

This is great as I'm getting ready to start picking up parts for my first home made unit :D
 
Thanks! (Frag explained to me the Rep system)

I was bored during HSPA testing today so i drew out a new plan for an autocascade. And with 96 hours till birthday money, and 2 rotary compressros and 1 reciprocating in the mail...

Who knows whats going to happen ;)
 
Its a cascade with one compressor, pretty hard to explain, but you have two gases, only one is condensed to a liquid in the condenser and then through gravity the gas is seperated out. The liquid is then evaporated to condense the 2nd stage which goes to the evaporator on the head.
 
Most major builders don't even do them except on massive request. (chily1, pc ice, and many others).

Though they technically can be run 24/7 due to only one compressor. And no need for oil seperation if the first stage gas carries it.
 
It definately sounds like the most economical and powerful solution possible without going overboard with more stages, etc. If you figure out how to do one please let me know so that I can try my own :)
 
Oh i know how to build one, but I dont think I'm ready and its just so hard to tune with proper gases, much less without.
 
May i also suggest to anyone who wants to try this to look into how fridges work and as far as i know its the same principle
 
name='llwyd' said:
May i also suggest to anyone who wants to try this to look into how fridges work and as far as i know its the same principle

Yup all cooling systems follow the same principle. Fridges, freezers, air conditioners, they're all the same design just with different evap styles to fit the situation.
 
Im currently looking into utilizing something called the Peltier effect. This is used in portable electric fridge-freezers and works on the principle of thermo-electric induction. The peltier effect occurs when you take three strips of wire, two copper, and one from the other end of the reactivity scale (idealy Bismuth) and twist them together / sandwich them and heat one end of the strip, if you then cool the other end, it induces an electric current. This also works the other way, meaning if a current it passed through it you get one cold end and one hot end, and the more current you use, the more extreme these temps are. A step-up transformer could be used to create huge currents from mains supply.

Just though id throw this out there as an idea for the cooling nuts among us
 
Peltier style coolers are very commonplace in the overclocking world. I think NoL has a few pelts laying around for gpu cooling.

I thought about using a pair of them to freeze my 7800GTX's with but I don't want to deal with yet another power supply.
 
yea, i was under the impression that they were in their early stages and not too good....obviously not lol. im mulling over whether to make my own water cooling or to go for an alternative like making something along peltier lines. i also want to see how possible it would be for me to obtain some Mercury
 
What you described for creating current is the Seeback effect. You really need to watercool the hot side of a peltier. The peltier effect is current across a set of connections and one side gets hot adn one cold due to electron movement.

:)
 
And make sure you put it on right :rolleyes: A friend told me of a guy who accidentally put it on the wrong way and then went to sleep leaving his comp on all night. You can guess what he found when he woke up ;) :D
 
name='WC Annihilus' said:
And make sure you put it on right :rolleyes: A friend told me of a guy who accidentally put it on the wrong way and then went to sleep leaving his comp on all night. You can guess what he found when he woke up ;) :D

I think I saw the aftermath pictures of that incident... Don't they clearly label the hot and cold side on pelts?
 
the hot side is the one that the electrons flow into and the cold is where they leave, so you could figure it out just by looking at it i guess
 
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