Painting the Case!
- Thread starter Hassan
- Start date
In a nutshell....
- Strip as much of the case apart as you can. If it even means drilling out rivets, it will be worth it in the long run.
-Rub the case down with some coarse grit sandpaper to get a nice rough surface for the paint to bond with.
- Make sure the surface is clean and free of dust, then use a self etching primer as the paint undercoat. Make sure you spray evenly and lightly following recommendations on the spraycan as to how long you should leave between coats.
- Once your primer coat has hardened, flatten it with some fine sandpaper.Keeping the surface flat through all stages of painting is the key to a nice glossy finish. Just be sure not to rub down too much tho or you'll end up going back to the metal.
- Clean the surface again and start with the first layer of paint. Each coat should really be not much more than a light dusting. Once again follow instructions on how long to leave between coats and slowly build up the paint in stages. Once again remember to lightly flatten each layer with some fine sandpaper once it has hardened.
- Once you've built up full coverage go for a final rub down, getting the surface as flat as possible. Clean the surface again so all dust has been removed and then start applying some clearcoat.
If anyone wants to fill in the blanks, feel free
- Strip as much of the case apart as you can. If it even means drilling out rivets, it will be worth it in the long run.
-Rub the case down with some coarse grit sandpaper to get a nice rough surface for the paint to bond with.
- Make sure the surface is clean and free of dust, then use a self etching primer as the paint undercoat. Make sure you spray evenly and lightly following recommendations on the spraycan as to how long you should leave between coats.
- Once your primer coat has hardened, flatten it with some fine sandpaper.Keeping the surface flat through all stages of painting is the key to a nice glossy finish. Just be sure not to rub down too much tho or you'll end up going back to the metal.
- Clean the surface again and start with the first layer of paint. Each coat should really be not much more than a light dusting. Once again follow instructions on how long to leave between coats and slowly build up the paint in stages. Once again remember to lightly flatten each layer with some fine sandpaper once it has hardened.
- Once you've built up full coverage go for a final rub down, getting the surface as flat as possible. Clean the surface again so all dust has been removed and then start applying some clearcoat.
If anyone wants to fill in the blanks, feel free
BloomerzUK
New member
What Jim said is completely right.
I'll like to add:
Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area, free from dust and dirt.
Also, I recommend hanging the part of the case you want to paint, as it makes it much easier to access, and you can paint all round. Some people bend out coat hangers and then hang them on washing lines for example.
I'll like to add:
Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area, free from dust and dirt.
Also, I recommend hanging the part of the case you want to paint, as it makes it much easier to access, and you can paint all round. Some people bend out coat hangers and then hang them on washing lines for example.
BloomerzUK
New member
Well, B&Q do some stage paint kits.
They normally come in 3 parts e.g. Primer, Main Coat, Finishing Coat.
They normally come in 3 parts e.g. Primer, Main Coat, Finishing Coat.
BloomerzUK
New member
Well, as Jim said.. you need to sand the case for the primer/paint to grip to. If not, it will just run and be a big mess.
Self-Etching Primer is the best primer to use, especially on alu and steel. I would use a black or grey primer.
Edit: I've recently painted my Lian Li PC-7, and I really like it. I followed the steps that Jim posted and here are the results:
Self-Etching Primer is the best primer to use, especially on alu and steel. I would use a black or grey primer.
Edit: I've recently painted my Lian Li PC-7, and I really like it. I followed the steps that Jim posted and here are the results:
BloomerzUK
New member
Umm not sure, I used Clear Coat.. dunno if it's the same thing. Hopefully Jim or somebody can confirm.
Self-Etching Primer can be picked up in Hardware stores or place like Halfords I'd imagine. If now, search the internet for some places.
Self-Etching Primer can be picked up in Hardware stores or place like Halfords I'd imagine. If now, search the internet for some places.
name='BloomerzUK' said:
ye as Bloomerz said, you should be able to pick up everything you need at Halfords.
When I painted my stacker I went for BMW Cosmos Black. It was nice and glossy with really small holographic style flakes in it. Under certain lights it'd look real nice.
As for Clear Coat vs Lacquer, I'm not really sure if there is any difference. I've always assumed that they serve the same purpose - just Lacquer is a more traditional name
Silentsnake
New member
I think thats a special type of paint not glitter, but i aint sure
Ask marcus000 as he recently used this on his latest case :drool:
You can PM him here
http://forum.overclock3d.net/private.php?do=newpm&u=6250
or check out his Build log on his case Here
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=23652
Ask marcus000 as he recently used this on his latest case :drool:
You can PM him here
http://forum.overclock3d.net/private.php?do=newpm&u=6250
or check out his Build log on his case Here
http://forum.overclock3d.net/showthread.php?t=23652
name='Hassan' said:OK
This is the type of effect I am looking for when spraying my case.
I've done some research and on how to do painting, but I do not know how to apply the glitters onto the paint job.
That is a highly specialized paint. Here is a link to a mod I did that shows the basics of painting.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=53743
Lacquer is better (dries much faster)Its also much stronger than enamel so if you use an enamel primer or color coat the lacquer will eat through it unless the enamel is properly cured (can take weeks, unless baked)
You can put enamel over lacquer easily without probs as lacquer usually dries in a few min.
To get the effect you want I would use self etching primer (best surface grip)
Trying to be cheap while expecting a good finished product wont work (especially with the paint job you want)
Here is a link to Metalflake (just to help you make a decision)
http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflake.aspx?gclid=CJaD_vfo45QCFScuagodDUkgSw
That guitar is painted pretty much the same to how Ultranova is:
Primer
Base Colour - Gloss Black
Clear Coat with Black Hologram Flake mixed into it
Clear Coat on it's own
Lot of work involved and i'm not even sure if you can spray flakes from a spray can, maybe get a local car paint shop to mix you up a can with a rainbow pearl ready mixed in or something??
The pearl effect won't be as noticeable as the metal flakes but unless you have access to a proper paint setup thats the only way I can think of you being able to do it.
Primer
Base Colour - Gloss Black
Clear Coat with Black Hologram Flake mixed into it
Clear Coat on it's own
Lot of work involved and i'm not even sure if you can spray flakes from a spray can, maybe get a local car paint shop to mix you up a can with a rainbow pearl ready mixed in or something??
The pearl effect won't be as noticeable as the metal flakes but unless you have access to a proper paint setup thats the only way I can think of you being able to do it.
Silentsnake
New member
name='marcus000' said:and then a TJ09 done crazy heavy with the same flake:
Im guessing that, that is your latest build
nepas
New member
Silentsnake
New member
name='Hassan' said:
How do you give reps to people?
