MSI RTX 2080Ti Sea Hawk EK High temps.

bartosz.bruhn

New member
I have a problem with high temps on my MSI RTX 2080Ti Sea Hawk EK (MSI card with pre-instaled EKWB watreblock on GPU). I have install all in new loop, with SE 280mm radiator and D5 pomp. Whole build with Polish comment you can find on yt:

https://youtu.be/HY86An4OfJE

Whole loop was connect outside of case, all parts was move around and "shaked", additional pipe for air to go out on top of res.
After 30 secend on Furemark I have 78 C on GPU. Radiator is going a little hot after 5 min, but with this temps on GPU it should be fire on Radiator.
Pump is going on max, is not connected to PWM conenctor.
It going to RMA, couse I cant remve block form card. Warranty sticker on one of four skrews near GPU, but ather 3 of them I could move almost with my fingers
Is it possible that MSI card form factor with block, and maybe they forget to remove sticker from block in factory

Thanks for any advice, it's my first open loop. Tomorrow will get GTX 1080 with proper working blok.
 
Either the block has not been fitted correctly or someone forgot to apply thermal paste.
You should be ok re warranty sticker but as its so new RMA is best option
 
That card should be running at around 55'c, Just RMA it and get another one, Either someone forgot to apply thermal paste or left the sticker on on the GPU portion of the block.
 
There are bubbles in the pump yet I can't see any flow.... Usually when I start running a new loop you get small bubbles everywhere until they eventually burp out of the system.

Have you looked at the GPU block itself? have a look at it and see if it has filled with coolant. You may have an air lock and a big gap in there.

That is about the only thing I can't see. Just get a mirror and have a look at it.

Also you say pump is going at max. That's not good for priming and filling the loop either. Slow it down a bit.
 
That was only one place where bubbles are. Its not a problem of air in loop. I was on max only during test not when, fill up my loop.

Whole components was connected out of the case, and shaked them well to get all air bubbles form loop.

With this pomp air going out in 2-3 min. This bubbles are normal in res if you crank up your pump to max. No bubbles in block, res or pipes.
Even with air in loop it shouldnt be so high temp. Even if I turn of pump, still constans 78c. With pump on max also 78c.
Thanks for advice.
 
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By the definition of "shake" I wouldn't. You will create air pockets. You need to gently tip them, listening for changes in the sound of the pump.

That may be a language barrier though.
 
That was only one place where bubbles are. Its not a problem of air in loop. I was on max only during test not when, fill up my loop.

Whole components was connected out of the case, and shaked them well to get all air bubbles form loop.

With this pomp air going out in 2-3 min. This bubbles are normal in res if you crank up your pump to max. No bubbles in block, res or pipes.
Even with air in loop it shouldnt be so high temp. Even if I turn of pump, still constans 78c. With pump on max also 78c.
Thanks for advice.

Did you turn on pump before priming it with liquid? you can do damage. Perhaps the pump is not actually working at all, hence the air and also same temperature.
 
Thanks for your attention. I did it with 10 years water cooling experiance superviser. So, no the pump is working fine, I can heard it when open cap on top of res. PWM works also fine. I move crad gently up and down and turn around, with res in highest point. The same with radiator and saw how bubbels going out from loop. There is rgb in card, so it was easy to see how bubbel move and after 1-2 min dissaper.
For me it also strange, that pre build block is not working, but MSI support wasnt suprised and make a RMA.

And funny part:
In box with card you can find EKWB thermal paste with screws to waterblock. But I Cant open this card because of card warranty sticker.
In normal waterblock you can clean water block after remove cople of screws from front of card to maintanance you waterblock After 1 years of usage. In MSI most of screws are under dragon cover, so you have to send card for maintenance and they will install new block... maybe is other way to do this.
 
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I have a problem with high temps on my MSI RTX 2080Ti Sea Hawk EK (MSI card with pre-instaled EKWB watreblock on GPU). I have install all in new loop, with SE 280mm radiator and D5 pomp. Whole build with Polish comment you can find on yt:

https://youtu.be/HY86An4OfJE

Whole loop was connect outside of case, all parts was move around and "shaked", additional pipe for air to go out on top of res.
After 30 secend on Furemark I have 78 C on GPU. Radiator is going a little hot after 5 min, but with this temps on GPU it should be fire on Radiator.
Pump is going on max, is not connected to PWM conenctor.
It going to RMA, couse I cant remve block form card. Warranty sticker on one of four skrews near GPU, but ather 3 of them I could move almost with my fingers
Is it possible that MSI card form factor with block, and maybe they forget to remove sticker from block in factory

Thanks for any advice, it's my first open loop. Tomorrow will get GTX 1080 with proper working blok.


If your Radiator is getting hot after 5 mins the loop is working and the problem is somewhere else.

Don't use Furmark for testing as it kills GPUs and any results you get from it are pointless anyway as some vendors get their cards to throttle when it is detected.

Test your GPU using something like Unigine Heaven 4 on max settings for 30mins.

If your rad is getting hot maybe you should be looking at trying a bigger one and better fans. 2080 Ti cards can produce a lot of heat but having said that a 240mm rad should be up to the job.
 
If your Radiator is getting hot after 5 mins the loop is working and the problem is somewhere else.

Don't use Furmark for testing as it kills GPUs and any results you get from it are pointless anyway as some vendors get their cards to throttle when it is detected.

Test your GPU using something like Unigine Heaven 4 on max settings for 30mins.

If your rad is getting hot maybe you should be looking at trying a bigger one and better fans. 2080 Ti cards can produce a lot of heat but having said that a 240mm rad should be up to the job.


How're your cards holding up ? Gonna put them under water ? I know the FTW3 Ultra cooler is really good but would love to see temps etc... on those bad boys, Unleash the beast as it were ^_^
 
How're your cards holding up ? Gonna put them under water ? I know the FTW3 Ultra cooler is really good but would love to see temps etc... on those bad boys, Unleash the beast as it were ^_^

Coolers are very good and as I will be using them mostly for gaming I will leave them on air.

When the fans turned up and the cards overclocked I can keep the temps on both cards under 60c which is pretty good for an SLI setup where the top card always gets to run a bit warm.
 
Coolers are very good and as I will be using them mostly for gaming I will leave them on air.

When the fans turned up and the cards overclocked I can keep the temps on both cards under 60c which is pretty good for an SLI setup where the top card always gets to run a bit warm.


60'c is a good temp, I was tempted by the FTW3, My finger was hovering over the buy button but I exercised self control for once ^_^
 
60'c is a good temp, I was tempted by the FTW3, My finger was hovering over the buy button but I exercised self control for once ^_^

What happened to the "im holding onto my money" :D

I knew you couldnt resist. Colleague of mine tried RTX in BF 5 with a 2080ti and couldnt cope with the fps tanking down to 38fps...
 
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