First ever build project

Min

New member
Dear all.

Hi my name is Min and I would like some advice from the experts out there due to my lack of experience.

Being the ignorant person I am I have been an avid user of Apple Macs for a long time.
The interest in gaming has hit me quite late, and only recently. Hence after much research my eyes have opened to a whole new world out there and I am now a late joiner in the PC building community.

Having spent quite a lot of time in the last few months reading reviews, article, delving in the sea of knowledge on forums such as this one and watching hours of video, I have finally pulled the trigger and built my first PC rig. Yay!

I have taken advice from various sources and carefully thought out what I want and how I want my system set up and looking and picked out parts instead of rushing out in my excitement to buy parts without giving thoughts to how I want my finished build to look like.

Currently I have finished building a fully working rig, but with everything running in stock just the way the parts came. Nothing has been over clocked or modified as of yet.

My rig so far:
Case: NZXT Switch 810 Matte Black
CPU: Intel i5 3570k
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
GPU: Asus GTX 670 DCII (Non top version, possibly adding another card in SLI in the future)
RAM: 16gb Corsair Vengeance 1600mhz in red (4 x 4gb)
PSU: Corsair AX850
SSD: Intel 520 series 120gb (I have my o/s and games on this one)
HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB (For storage of photos, music etc)
DVD: LG GH24NS90.AUAR50B 24x Super Multi Internal DVD Rewriter
O/S: Microsoft Windows 8
Keyboard: Steelseries 6Gv2
Mouse: Steelseries Sensei

So far I have the Rig all built up and working running all stock settings.

Also currently I only have the stock fans set up but just re-jigged the position a little bit.
I have removed the bottom hard drive cage and the bottom bracket.
I have one stock fan on the top at the back of the case on exhaust, one at the back of the case moved as far up as possible on exhaust, one at the front of the case on the top fan fitting and one at the bottom next to the PSU.

Now that I have a working rig my next project is to get all the water-cooling and aesthetic side of the case modified and complete. Once I have a rig which can handle the pressure thrown at it, I plan to start delving into over clocking the CPU and GPU and possibly adding a second GPU to run in SLI.

Okay here is where my questions begin.

I have 4 topics of question:
1. Motherboard power connection
2. Aesthetics
3. Water-cooling
4. Fan set-up and airflow


1. Motherboard power connection

Starting with a very simple question, how to connect power to the Mobo.
From what I can see the Mobo comes with 4 power connections.
1x 24-pin eATX Power connector
1x 8-pin eATX Power connector
1x 4-pin eATX Power connector
1x 4-pin molex EZ_Plug
Currently I have the 24-pin and the 8-pin plugged in and everything seems to be running fine, but what is the other 2 connectors for? Should I plug these in too?


2. Aesthetics

As you guys can see with the Maximus V Formula Mobo, the Asus GPU and the red ram sticks my PC is predominantly all black inside with red accents.

This is the colour scheme I want to stick with, black with red highlights to catch the eye.
I don’t want to go too overboard on the RED RED RED colour scheme and have a washed out look inside though and I want to be careful of overusing the red colour.

As you already know the NZXT Switch 810 case has a massive window on the side which is what I wanted and love, but this also means I need to take that much more care with how it looks inside.

I have a design idea in my head that I have been sketching out. However, having not built a rig before I’m just a little concerned what might seem like a good idea on paper might not actually look good once implemented so I wanted to pick your brains and experience.

My train of thought is istead of going down the typical LED fan route, I plan to get fans that are more focused around performance and silent operation than just choosing ones because they come with LEDs on them.

Also I feel sticking with the red colour scheme and illuminating the inside of the case with red lights will actually give me a washout affect and ruin the image I’m going for.
So I plan to illuminate the case with white light and provide the red accents.

The red accents I plan on using are:
The red from the Mobo
The red Ram chips
Water-cooling pipes running red water
Red braided power cables for the Mobo and the GPU.

What do you guys think?

Now I found a photo of someone else’s build which is actually more or less the impact and colour scheme I wanted to have.

nzxt-switch-810-case-2.jpg


This is almost my ideal finished look.

Also I am considering having red light accents similar to the photo in the link above.
The mesh running along the bottom of the case, and having a red glow at the front of the case coming from the little triangular mesh at the bottom. If I were to do this, how do I do it?

nzxt-switch-810-full-tower-casing-matte-black-special-edition-lingloong-1208-22-lingloong2.jpg


Would this look weird and would it be better to keep the front of the case looking stealth black having no lights coming from it? Also I’m concerned about light leaking from the air vents down the side of the front fan cover and from the top of the case from the air vents, would this look weird? I’m worried that it would look really odd and ruin the external aesthetics of my build.

Another big concern I have is that when I look at a lot of the photos of other people’s build with LED’s illuminating the inside of the case, there seems to show a very sporadic light with flares and partial patchy bright zones like this one

b2248fc8_DSCI0467.jpeg


How do I avoid this and have it looking more like the white NZXT case above and hence what is the best way to illuminate the case from the inside?

Final question on aesthetics is my GPU being heavy and only held up at the front at the expansion slot and in the middle with the PCI slot, the rear end of it is sagging down slightly. But if I see other people’s build even with bigger cards it’s perfectly perpendicular. How do you keep the cards supported like this?


3. Water-cooling

There are water-cooling channels on the ASUS Maximus V Formula Mobo that runs around the CPU block. So I plan to make use of this and have the CPU, Mobo and GPU set up in the watercooling loop.

From researching online it would seem that the loop order I need is Pump -> Reservoir -> Radiator -> CPU -> Mobo fin thingy -> GPU -> Back to pump.

The thing that is difficult for me to get my head around and understand is what size radiator is required for the amount of items on the loop.

So currently I have the CPU, Mobo, GPU I want in the loop plus maybe an extra GPU in the future.

Would a single 240 or 280 60mm radiator up top running a push pull config be enough for this or do I need to either try to squeeze in a 360 radiator up top or instead possibly get a second radiator on the bottom?

Also linked to the Aesthetic side of things, for the water running inside the watercooling loop, I would like to have it looking very much Ferrari red (instead of a pinkish light red colour).
Does this mean I just need to add more die into the water and use a clear tube, or do I need to use a red colored tube?


4. Fan set-up and airflow

Finally, as I mentioned all the way on the top, currently I only have the stock fans set up but just re-jigged the position a little bit.
I have removed the bottom hard drive cage and the bottom bracket.
I have one stock fan on the top at the back of the case on exhaust, one at the back of the case moved as far up as possible on exhaust, one at the front of the case on the top fan fitting and one at the bottom next to the PSU.

This is what I’m planning to do:
Run a radiator 240 or 280 up at the top right at the back in a push pull config if space allows for it. Add another fan at the top towards the front of the case just exhausting.
Have the fan at the rear of the case exhausting.
Have the 2 fans at the front and 2 fans at the bottom of the case.
Have 1 fan on the top HDD cage pitched towards the GPU and CPU for better airflow direction.

Like this

CR-SWITCH-810-SE-MatteBlack-5.jpg


Now I know that this might be overkill, but then again this is as much as a hobby then just trying to push maximum benchmarking performance.

That gives me a total of 11 fans if I run push pull, and 9 fans if I don’t run push pull on the radiator.

How do you control so many fans?

Am I better off plugging them straight into a molex and into the PSU and running full power all the time?

I have looked at fan controllers online but all of them seem to only support 4 or 5 fans. How do I get this number of fans on there?

Also is this a good airflow configuration in regards to positive / negative airpressure?

Thank you so much everyone for your patience and support.

Min x
 
I can't give you much in sight into watercooling as I've never done it before but
I don't think in anyway you'll get a CPU and a GPU cooled on a 240 rad never mind mobo
Watercooling the mobo is a complete waste of time in terms of performance so note you're only doing it for aesthetics.
For a solid red colouring I think you would need colourless tubing and a red coolant.
As for as I'm aware most people say loop order doesn't matter that much and that you should just make it as clean as possible with as little tubing as possible so don't get stuck on the mindset Pump -> Reservoir -> Radiator -> CPU -> Mobo fin thingy -> GPU -> Back to pump. it all depends on the layout of your build
 
Hi ruairi.C,

Thank you for your reply.

In that case what size radiator or radiators would I need and should be looking into?

Thank you once again! :)
 
You should be looking in the 360 size really,a good rule of thumb is 120 for each block in the loop then an extra 120.

Example: 2 GPUs and a CPU=120+120+120 +the extra 120=480

Your rad choice will depend on your priorities,do you want silence or performance? This will also dictate the fans you purchase,these need to be matched to the rad,most low FPI rads can use lesser performing fans while the high FPI rads require a more suitable fan,for example the GT series fans or the Corsair SP fans.
 
Have you seen Toms review on youtube about watercooling the NZXT 810? He has some good tips and ideas.

360 60mm Would be enough for a CPU-GPU loop. Dont use the watercooling built in to the Mobo heatsinks. It will look very ugly and as stated above wont give you a perfomance increase. You can buy aftermarket mobo waterblocks but its not worth it.

Order of components does not really matter. Just make sure the pump gets it water from the res. Pumps dont like air and need a constant supply of fluid.

Fan wise, there are fancontrollers that can have 12 fans. Like the Scythe Kaze Q12. You could also put in 2 fan controllers if you have the space all depending on how you are going to use your drive bays.

Ive done a watercooling build too in my Switch 810. You might wanna take a look at the pictures to get some ideas and inspiration.
 
Hi NastyFighter,

Yeah I have seen Tom's review which is what I'm basing most of my build and design around.

So the Mobo Heatsink that come with the Mobo is kind of pointless?

By the way very very nice build. I really like it So you have a 360 up top, 240 out front and a bay reservoir.

Another dilemma I have is, I quite like keeping the stealth optical drive bay at the top, and I want to use the two bays below as a bay reservoir.

In which case I won't have room for a fan controller.

I was also considering taking out both harddrive cages all together and putting the SSD drive in to the hot swap and the HDD hanging like yours sounds like a good idea. Does the HDD not get hot being concealed at the back of the case like that?
 
Mobo heatsinks in general are pointless unless you do it for aesthetics.

You will lose the stealth bay whatever you do if you plan on having a 360 rad in the top... I didnt want to lose it aswell but i had to (wish more cases had a stealth drive bay). Im thinking about buying a usb dvd burner and 2 fan controlers to make things look nicer. Dont use optical storage very often but occasionally I do and sometimes a burn a DVD for software.

I also took out the hotswap by taking the screws out, that gives you an extra drive bay. You can mount the SSD to the back of the case with some doublesided velcro/tape and hang the HDD just like I did. I did this afterwards and didnt take any pictures. The HDD doesnt get hot really. HDD's dont get hot unless you pack them closely together and then still its not really a problem.

Thanks for the compliments. I have a 360 up top and a 280 up front. Bit overkill for my components but now I can simply add another gpu without problems :P You can even fit a 420 up there. But you have to make sure the rad is flat on one side. Because these aplhacool rads have plugs on the top and bottom and are thicker so they wont fit (bit hard to explain :S).

Also be aware of how your pump pumps the water. I am now pumping up into the 360 rad because that is the highest point. When I turn the PC off the water wants to run back down into the res but cant due to the restrictions made by the pump. I was first pumping down and thus when I turned off the PC the water from the 360 rad would fill up the res. And then theres air in the loop. And one thing with this bay res is, it doesnt like air. The intake of the res has a tube leading to the intake of the pump. So if there is air in the loop it just gets suucked in the pump straight away without any chance to escape. This took me ages to bleed and I had to cut a plastic strip to stop the air from being sucked in again. You dont have this problem with normal res and pump setup. Because with a normal res the air has more time to escape before the water is sucked into the pump. So depending on the components you are getting you might want to think about that as well.

Hope this helps, feel free to ask more :D
 
Lots of good advice in here, especially on cooling. Definitely listen to your fellow forum members as they have a wealth of knowledge.

The 120 for every block is a good rule of thumb to go by. The case is a hell of a lot of fun to work in. Keep us updated on any progress :)
 
Yup, I will keep things up dated maybe open up a build log later on so you guys can keep track of my progress and give me advice along the way.

Infact, when I go home tonight I'll take some photos of my current build so I can keep it updated :)

Nasty fighter, What do you think about adding a 240 or a 280 rad on top, and a seperate 240 or a 280 rad on the bottom of the case and keeping the stealth bay at the top.

would this be enough cooling?

Also does anyone know what this loopy thing is?

286894-cyberpower-zeus-thunder-3000se-side.jpg
 
Yup, I will keep things up dated maybe open up a build log later on so you guys can keep track of my progress and give me advice along the way.

Infact, when I go home tonight I'll take some photos of my current build so I can keep it updated :)

Nasty fighter, What do you think about adding a 240 or a 280 rad on top, and a seperate 240 or a 280 rad on the bottom of the case and keeping the stealth bay at the top.

would this be enough cooling?

Also does anyone know what this loopy thing is?

286894-cyberpower-zeus-thunder-3000se-side.jpg

Its a frozen Q res,prone to leak and very expensive....avoid
 
Thank you for your quick and informative replies.

I'm actually quite happy with all the parts I ordered and fitted in so far. I think there are lots of potential in my build and enough to keep me busy for a long time, just over clocking everything alone will be a big project for me to partake once I have all the cooling and exterior modded to my liking.

I would like to maintain the optical drive at the top bay as it's a stealth bay and I am quite keen on that idea.
Which actually begs another question.

It seems a single 240 or 280 rad up top might not be enough, so I'm leaning towards the idea of getting a 240 or 280 up top with a further 240 or 280 down the bottom and lose some fans? Would that be a good set up and enough radiators for me?

I have a further 3 more 5.25 bays of which one is a hot swap bay.

What I'm considering is removing both harddrive cage and putting one hdd in the hotswap bay, one hanging off the back and using the remaining 2 5.25 bays as a bay reservoir.

untitled.png

IMG_0276.jpg


What do you think about this config?

In which case I won't have space for a fan controller.

Would it be weird to just connect all the fans to the powersupply directly and just run them at full speed all the time? Should I really try and control them if i can?

Apart from the noise what would be the disadvantages of this? I thought I could counter act this by getting some quiet fans.

Thank you! Love you guys.

Min x
 
Get some resistors to lower the fan speed, and leave your fans at one speed. I have all the fans in my rig running at 7v/5v 24/7.
12v is too noisy for me :)

And, when it comes to rads, buying a thicker rad but using one set of fans generally yields better results.
 
Mind you, that if you use PWM fans they wont fit in some molex to fan headers. Because most fan headers are 3 pin and PWM fans are 4 pin.
 
I see, I'll look into those resisters:)

NastyFighter, was one pump enough power for your build?

Seeing as your build is going to be similar to mine in terms of loop size, was one D5 pump enough or did you need more?
 
OP-Get yourself a Lamptron FC 5 controller,everything can go on that for control,even the D5.
Plus you can hook up temp sensors to monitor fluid temp etc.
 
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