EVGA 780 TI Hydrocopper waterblock

Sypherian

New member
I've been trying to read up on this waterblock due to some previous drawbacks that this block have had/has but haven't been able to confirm or deny any of them, so I'm hoping some of you guys might know the answers to my questions.


According to some posts I've read the hydrocopper has inferior VRM cooling or at least had at some point but haven't been able to find sufficient confirm or denials if that is the case on the 780 TI classy block.

The hydrocopper (produced by swiftech) is said to be really restrictive or was at some point but again I'm not able to really find any proof if that is or isn't the case on the mentioned block I'm looking at.

Since I have the EVGA 780 TI and want a full block for the graphics card my only real choices (that i know of I might be wrong) is the EVGA hydro or the EK block and the EK doesn't cover up the whole PCB which looks a little daft and it is made of nickel which they've had some issues with in the past don't know if that is resolved really. Both blocks from EK for the TI Classy is either full nickle plated or a mixture of Acetal and nickel so don't really suit my build but it beats an inferior block if that is the case.


Thank you for helping out in advance much appreciated :)
 
The 780 Ti Hydrocopper waterblock only has water go through a chamber over the GPU Die. The rest of the waterblock uses a separate heatsink that isn't cooled by the water to transfer heat from the VRM's

This means it's cheaper to produce as it doesn't use as much metal in its construction. It's a very cheap / low cost block.

Here is a picture of the blocks underside so you can get a sense of what is cooled by the water and what isn't

5q4DOeG.jpg


The EK blocks are full coverage in that they cool the power and the gpu die and the memory using one piece of metal and the water travels through the whole thing. So it does provide better cooling.

But lets be honest the VRM's are unlikely to need water cooling anyway and the piece of metal on the EVGA hydrocopper is going to be adequate or they wouldn't sell it like that.

As for the EK nickle plating, they fixed that like two years ago it's not an issue anymore. I believe the last series of card to be affected were the NVIDIA 580 series it was that long ago.

And just to touch on the full coverage block situation. When the card is in the system upside down you can't even see the blocks length honestly. The cables that connect for power obscure the end of the board when looking at the card in the system so it makes no difference.

What does make a difference however is the backplate which will be fully visible so get a nice one from EK if you decide to go that way or use the EVGA one which isn't to my taste but it is full length.
 
The 780 Ti Hydrocopper waterblock only has water go through a chamber over the GPU Die. The rest of the waterblock uses a separate heatsink that isn't cooled by the water to transfer heat from the VRM's

This means it's cheaper to produce as it doesn't use as much metal in its construction. It's a very cheap / low cost block.

Here is a picture of the blocks underside so you can get a sense of what is cooled by the water and what isn't

5q4DOeG.jpg


The EK blocks are full coverage in that they cool the power and the gpu die and the memory using one piece of metal and the water travels through the whole thing. So it does provide better cooling.

But lets be honest the VRM's are unlikely to need water cooling anyway and the piece of metal on the EVGA hydrocopper is going to be adequate or they wouldn't sell it like that.

As for the EK nickle plating, they fixed that like two years ago it's not an issue anymore. I believe the last series of card to be affected were the NVIDIA 580 series it was that long ago.

And just to touch on the full coverage block situation. When the card is in the system upside down you can't even see the blocks length honestly. The cables that connect for power obscure the end of the board when looking at the card in the system so it makes no difference.

What does make a difference however is the backplate which will be fully visible so get a nice one from EK if you decide to go that way or use the EVGA one which isn't to my taste but it is full length.

THX Vicey that really helped me a lot much appreciated. I've already watched a video on the EK and how to fit it, due to the size of the EK waterblock it seems kinda fiddly and hard to position it right when you mount the waterblock but I'm sure I'll find a way to manage it so EK block it is.
 
I've fitted four EK blocks, two GTX 480 and two GTX 780 ones. It's really easy to do, it took me about 10 to 15 minutes to disassemble, clean and assemble each 780 with the EK blocks. Fun too!
 
I've fitted four EK blocks, two GTX 480 and two GTX 780 ones. It's really easy to do, it took me about 10 to 15 minutes to disassemble, clean and assemble each 780 with the EK blocks. Fun too!

Just watched another video on the EK block where he sinks the PCB down on top of the block to fit and align with screw holes and it hit me that I might be able to use matches (they might be too thick) or toothpicks in the screw holes on the waterblock to better be able to align the PCB :-D

since this is my first time doing a watercooling build I'm really looking forward to get started on it. It has been 6 very long months waiting for the Devils canyon and Z97 chipset
 
Aligning the board with the block is really easy. Simply place the block on the box and stand up over the top and lower the board while matching the holes up. It's like the easiest part of assembly to be honest.

Back in the day EK didn't used to even put the standoffs into the blocks and you had to put them on yourself using thermal paste as glue. Now that was hard to align the holes haha but these days it's so easy.
 
Aligning the board with the block is really easy. Simply place the block on the box and stand up over the top and lower the board while matching the holes up. It's like the easiest part of assembly to be honest.

Back in the day EK didn't used to even put the standoffs into the blocks and you had to put them on yourself using thermal paste as glue. Now that was hard to align the holes haha but these days it's so easy.


Cool I'm looking forward to it.


Thank you so much for your help Ill update this post sometime in July when I'm done with the rig and everything is sorted. :D
 
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