Contact problems? - Best way to fix?

Stoned

New member
Just checking but after speaking to brwmogazos I wonder if I had contact problems

My Abit IC7-Max3 is reading the CPU temp as -4oC (latest BIOS) while my evap temps are -41oC

I'm using the extra washers as suggested and contact appears reasnoble judging by the white heatsink compound on each side of the chip. What do people suggest I do now?

 
well first off m8 ic7 boards do read high, u should b lookin at around -22/-25 idle, the best way 2 get good contact is 2 thin the seal string b4 u apply it 2 ur evap head. then line up the evap head and gently apply it 2 ur cpu kit then wen it's lined up apply more pressure till u c abit of the seal string cumin out from the side of the evap head. once u ave done that apply another layer of seal string around the outside of the evap head 2 make sure that no air can get thought due 2 the thin layer u applied 1st. once u ave done this use all teh washers on the evap screws and apply seal string over the screws and ur ready 2 go m8 ;). once u get more confident u can file about 2/3mm off the cpu screw mount thingys :p and improve contact even more. in the with my 3.0c at stock i get -33 on a asus p4c800-e deluxe and with cpu @ 4.280 i read -25 in the bios :cool:. hope that helps u out m8

$H!Gs
 
OK. File what down? :)

I think I just have a crap P4 chip tbh. Just doesnt want to hit even 4gig :/

Can you use Artic Silver with the Mach coolers instead of that white stuff provided?

Wasnt sure so I stuck with the white stuff.
 
warlord, when do say thin the seal string what do you mean?

I always squeze it together to make it a bit higher (if that makes sense)

and stoned you want artic ceramiuq stuff really, its muh beter than using reg AS3/5 as its optimised for like -160-140 or something (so its ideal for negative temps)
 
Some piccies would really help here tbh, but someone may know a link to where they are. I didnt follow the filing bit either. There seems to be 1001 ways of doing this from just seal string to coating the whole motherboard with all sorts of crap - doesn't seem there is just one answer

sw
 
Isn't there the whole theory of the cut up zip tie pieces slid inbetween the metal bracket and the plastic surround on the kit.... stopping the movement of the metal bracket...
 
i think he means stretching a line of seal string so it becomes thinner...smaller radius...less mass...then puts some proper seal string layer arround it...

I would say if your cpu doesnt clock well at all get rid of it...then get another one...dont bother sealing the socket really well :)
 
Does burning in CPU's really work?

I'm trying it on mine with Prime95 to see if I can get my 3.2 to run stable at 4gig
 
Brwmogazos said:
i think he means stretching a line of seal string so it becomes thinner...smaller radius...less mass...then puts some proper seal string layer arround it...

I would say if your cpu doesnt clock well at all get rid of it...then get another one...dont bother sealing the socket really well :)
thats exactly wat i ment. sorry for not makin myself clear :(
 
Stoned said:
Does burning in CPU's really work?

I'm trying it on mine with Prime95 to see if I can get my 3.2 to run stable at 4gig

tbh im not sure on that 1 either, as i neva ave the patience 2 let prime run for over 12 hours, everytime i go 2 do it, i seem 2 ave a clan match :p so i ave 2 cancel it anyways
 
On my max3 and 3.2C,i had poor contact at first,even after applying sealstring correctly,and using all the supplied washers.I ended up removing the front plate (the black plastic rectangle that goes on front of mobo),putting it feet first on a a sheet of co**** sandpaper and sanding about 1.5mm off all 4 feet.Then i discovered that the modified cover now fouled a small component on mobo (in upper right area),so i used my indispensable dremel with a 3mm milling bit to notch out the cover to clear the component on mobo,now i get good contact.Here's a little tip (from a man who has lost 3 max's to prommies),i now always completely pack my cpu socket with DC4,squish it through the pin-holes with a credit card,then squish the chip down into it,i even force it into to void under the cpu heatspreader,to totally eliminate any air pockets in the socket.So far (fingers crossed) i seemed to have stopped killing em.
 
name='Thickbrit' said:
On my max3 and 3.2C,i had poor contact at first,even after applying sealstring correctly,and using all the supplied washers.I ended up removing the front plate (the black plastic rectangle that goes on front of mobo),putting it feet first on a a sheet of co**** sandpaper and sanding about 1.5mm off all 4 feet.Then i discovered that the modified cover now fouled a small component on mobo (in upper right area),so i used my indispensable dremel with a 3mm milling bit to notch out the cover to clear the component on mobo,now i get good contact.Here's a little tip (from a man who has lost 3 max's to prommies),i now always completely pack my cpu socket with DC4,squish it through the pin-holes with a credit card,then squish the chip down into it,i even force it into to void under the cpu heatspreader,to totally eliminate any air pockets in the socket.So far (fingers crossed) i seemed to have stopped killing em.

i am doing the same thing myself with my P4C800E....after 2 dead boards due to condensation

using loads of dielectric grease myself with my finger covered with a nylon bag to spread it inside the pin holes and arround the socket area...

seems to work from what it seems :)
 
Stoned said:
Does burning in CPU's really work?

I'm trying it on mine with Prime95 to see if I can get my 3.2 to run stable at 4gig

no mate

it doesnt...

it does work with memory though mate over time...

you have to burn in your ram well though...if you want to get the best out of it

with my bh 5 sticks i just wasnt bothered...i got them to 255fsb @ 2 2 2 5 turbo etc... when i still had them by using an 80mm fan blowing on them....after months i tried again...255fsb was still the max but no cooling was needed...last time without cooling they were running like 4-5 mhz less...and i didnt even bother burning them in...just normal use :)
 
name='Thickbrit' said:
On my max3 and 3.2C,i had poor contact at first,even after applying sealstring correctly,and using all the supplied washers.I ended up removing the front plate (the black plastic rectangle that goes on front of mobo),putting it feet first on a a sheet of co**** sandpaper and sanding about 1.5mm off all 4 feet.Then i discovered that the modified cover now fouled a small component on mobo (in upper right area),so i used my indispensable dremel with a 3mm milling bit to notch out the cover to clear the component on mobo,now i get good contact.Here's a little tip (from a man who has lost 3 max's to prommies),i now always completely pack my cpu socket with DC4,squish it through the pin-holes with a credit card,then squish the chip down into it,i even force it into to void under the cpu heatspreader,to totally eliminate any air pockets in the socket.So far (fingers crossed) i seemed to have stopped killing em.
1st question is there some bad language editor on here , cos you meant rougher than medium grade sandpaper - or was it you? 2nd dya have any pics cos I'm shortly gonna be doing the same as I have 3.4c and max3 and regassed Mach II?

sw
 
Hmm well it certainly seems too!

Before I couldnt get into windows at 4gig, but now after a day of running Prime95 and turning the fans onto Turbo I'm running the torture test at 4gig!! :D
 
1st question is there some bad language editor on here , cos you meant rougher than medium grade sandpaper - or was it you? 2nd dya have any pics cos I'm shortly gonna be doing the same as I have 3.4c and max3 and regassed Mach II?
Dodgy editor methinks,it should have said course(with an a),i actually used p80 grit anyway.I'll try to get pics up here later today.
 
Back
Top