cleaning watercooling loop.

[Permafrost]

hi guys and girls, as some of you know i'm doing a case change from a 750D back to a switch 810 and need a few tips when it comes to cleaning out the loop, the coolant i'm using atm is mayhems pastel ice white.

now what i need to know is deionized water or distilled water for cleaning?

and what clear water to use for the loop as i might add a red dye in later or leave it as it is??

the theme ii'm thinking of going is red and white or just leaving it all white.

if there is anything anyone can think of that will help please let me know
I'm not a pro at watercooling and I would appreciate any tips or help

the loop is:

250mm x 50mm tube res
18w DDC pump
GTX 780 waterblock (not sure what one i'm getting)
EK XTX 360mm rad
Heatkiller V3 in white (might change it....)
EK XTX 240mm rad

 

[Vicey]

Make sure to get some tubing that doesn't have plasticizer in it like PrimoFlex Advanced LRT - This tubing will last much longer and prolong the time between loop cleanouts.

It doesn't break down as fast, it will not leave plasticizer in your loop (visible powdery goop that clogs things).

As for cleaning a loop, I usually change tubing every time due to staining, then I use a new clean tooth brush to scrub my blocks. I'll use both De-Ionised AND distilled water (both in one). You can buy it from most places: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/3508...f11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 very cheap.

Hope this helped

 

[Permafrost]

Make sure to get some tubing that doesn't have plasticizer in it like PrimoFlex Advanced LRT - This tubing will last much longer and prolong the time between loop cleanouts.

It doesn't break down as fast, it will not leave plasticizer in your loop (visible powdery goop that clogs things).

As for cleaning a loop, I usually change tubing every time due to staining, then I use a new clean tooth brush to scrub my blocks. I'll use both De-Ionised AND distilled water (both in one). You can buy it from most places: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/3508...f11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0 very cheap.

Hope this helped

ok so you use both to clean the loop, i'm lucking i can pick up De-Ionised Water for £3 for 5L of the stuff.

EDIT: I've been told to change the hose every year or when i need to clean the loop and that PrimoFlex Advanced LRT is top dog for hose.

 

[Vicey]

It is the best tubing in my opinion. And honestly you could probably run a system for three years with that tubing and not have any problems but even so I usually drain and change my tubing and clean my blocks every 12 months when I upgrade.

 

[pogitangkad]

if I can ask an additional question, what is the preferred cleaning process for acrylic? I would hope changing tubes annually is also recommended.

sorry to cut in, and thanks in advance

 

[Vicey]

That's okay, questions are how we all learn!

With acrylic it usually doesn't stain beyond the surface so simply rinsing it with water is enough to clear it. If you get some stubborn grime build up then simply use a wash cloth (not kitchen towel or paper as they leave fibers) then flush it with water after and dry.

 

[SuB]

Personally, I always clean components (radiators mostly) using warm clear vinegar, outside of the loop and flush with di- water. Then for things like blocks they get a good flush with di-water, tubing is always new for me, no question about that.

For coolant, Feser one has never done me wrong, I'll be trying their clear stuff soon had the purple version of this in a loop for around 4 years without so much as an issue.

 

[Vicey]

I've used Feser One in the past for 12 months, never had an issue with it. I was using the clear one that was UV reactive.

Last several builds I've been using EK's premix (Blood red) also had no problems with that. Been using it (several bottles, several loops) for four years.

 

[pogitangkad]

when you do clean parts, is it a soak then flush, or constant flushing without re-running the de-i water through the parts again?

 

[Permafrost]

if I can ask an additional question, what is the preferred cleaning process for acrylic? I would hope changing tubes annually is also recommended.

sorry to cut in, and thanks in advance

it's cool dude I didn't even think about that lol

That's okay, questions are how we all learn!

With acrylic it usually doesn't stain beyond the surface so simply rinsing it with water is enough to clear it. If you get some stubborn grime build up then simply use a wash cloth (not kitchen towel or paper as they leave fibers) then flush it with water after and dry.

good toknow and keep in mind

Personally, I always clean components (radiators mostly) using warm clear vinegar, outside of the loop and flush with di- water. Then for things like blocks they get a good flush with di-water, tubing is always new for me, no question about that.

For coolant, Feser one has never done me wrong, I'll be trying their clear stuff soon had the purple version of this in a loop for around 4 years without so much as an issue.

cool, i'll get for some vinegar and di-water it is to clean and use Feser it is then

I've used Feser One in the past for 12 months, never had an issue with it. I was using the clear one that was UV reactive.

Last several builds I've been using EK's premix (Blood red) also had no problems with that. Been using it (several bottles, several loops) for four years.

might as well look in to EK's premix stuff too

 

[SuB]

when you do clean parts, is it a soak then flush, or constant flushing without re-running the de-i water through the parts again?

for rads, soak shake and sit with vineger for 5 minutes, then repeat inverted and then for the di-water, it's a fill, shake and empty, then flush. I tend to hook up a really short loop using a bucket to run water through the loop for a while, say from one bucket to another sometimes as well. depends how anal you are, or how potent the last dye you used was

 

[Vicey]

when you do clean parts, is it a soak then flush, or constant flushing without re-running the de-i water through the parts again?

When I clean out my radiators I connect them using tubing to my sink. Then I literally run normal tap water from the sink through them until the water runs clear with no contaminates from the manufacturing process present.

Afterwards I disconnect them from the tap, take all the water out as much as possible, then I will put deionized-distilled (two in one) through the radiators and swash it about by hand and pour out. I'll do this a few times until I'm satisfied, then I'll try to dry them by leaning them up so that the water runs down to where the outlet/inlets are.

For other parts (Blocks) I don't flush those. They are already flushed at the factory when they do a pressure leak test. You'll probably find more bacteria on them after flushing than if you just used them as-is.

Visually inspect all your parts, especially any pre-assembled parts like Pump+Res combos. Make sure all the rubber seals are fitted correctly and not broken or twisted. Make sure all the screws/bolts are nice and tight.

You may want to leak test outside of the case and if you do that I'd recommend running deionized-distilled water, no point wasting expensive coolant when you'll need to drain it anyway.

Personally I just do leak tests in the case with all the components, I of course do not power anything on when I do this except the pump and I use a separate power supply to run the pump.

 

[pogitangkad]

for rads, soak shake and sit with vineger for 5 minutes, then repeat inverted and then for the di-water, it's a fill, shake and empty, then flush. I tend to hook up a really short loop using a bucket to run water through the loop for a while, say from one bucket to another sometimes as well. depends how anal you are, or how potent the last dye you used was

ok. I was planning on using clear liquid in colored acrylic tubing.

 

[SuB]

Personally I just do leak tests in the case with all the components, I of course do not power anything on when I do this except the pump and I use a separate power supply to run the pump.

I've found using an airsoft battery to fill the loop so the psu is out of sight, out of mind a VERY good idea

It can run the loop for a while as well for testing

I believe it's a 3800mAh 9.6v'er but I can't remember off hand, speaking of which it needs charging!

Edit: here we are, this is similar to the one i use

 

[Vicey]

I've found using an airsoft battery to fill the loop so the psu is out of sight, out of mind a VERY good idea

It can run the loop for a while as well for testing

I believe it's a 3800mAh 9.6v'er but I can't remember off hand, speaking of which it needs charging!

I got a way better way of doing it. You know when you buy one of those IDE/SATA to USB adapters. Not the cased kind just the cables needed. They always come with an AC to Molex power brick like this:

http://i.imgur.com/th3NXrA.jpg

And that's what I use. Price? £3.99 - No charging and can turn it off and on at the plug socket.

 

[SuB]

I got a way better way of doing it. You know when you buy one of those IDE/SATA to USB adapters. Not the cased kind just the cables needed. They always come with an AC to Molex power brick like this:

http://i.imgur.com/th3NXrA.jpg

And that's what I use. Price? £3.99 - No charging and can turn it off and on at the plug socket.

I need me one of those, that's excellent.

I was just using a not-attached-to-mains option that was portable

 

[Permafrost]

thanks for all your help guys, i've got a lot to read up on now

so what about using silver kill coil with copper and brass?

as the EX XTX rads as the material's are Copper fins 90% copper tube (H90) Brass chambers

or is there anything else i should use?