Buy which custom waterblock ? 2600k needs 1.52v for 4.5Ghz!! thats 62C over ambient @ 50% load

[robtmathias]

Ok do I get $270 EK CPU Kit with EK-Supreme HF - Nickel block, 800 liter per hour pump, and EK-CoolStream RAD XT (360) radiator w/Yate Loon D12SH (2200rpm)fans

-OR- $259 Swiftech CPU kit w/ Apogee XT waterblock and 1200 liter per hour pump and MCR220 radiator & fans with pre-installed Radbox?

Does pump performance go beyond liters per hour ? Which waterblock is the best on the market, or is it not mentioned in these two ?

Tom or someone else who knows, can you pick me out a better block/radiator/pump than whats in these kits ?

I am fighting what is !! 75C !! on my $70 Thermaltake SpinQ air cooler AFTER ONLY THE FIRST 2 SECONDS OF ONLY 70% LOAD in 12.7C abient

 

[SieB]

Tim or someone

*cough* Tom *cough*

 

[wotevajjjj]

go with the corsair H50, it's the nhd14 of liquid cooling XD

just kiddin, got n,o idea about watercooling but i'll have a look

 

[robtmathias]

*cough* Tom *cough*

Yes, typo, I corrected it thanks. And thanks for the replies.

I recall a post where Tom said that the NHD-14 was the first cooler that got him to stop messing around with custom waterblocks.

But I need to find out if I can even get a mere 20C cooler than the NHD-14 it will be worth the $300-$500 and time spent.

I need to find the ABSOLUTE BEST waterblock, pump, and radiator though.

I know sometimes an H50 is about 7C over ambient hotter than an NHD-14, and one of those kits I posted a frozencpu.com buyer reviewed that it got 20C cooler than his H50.

So that means without upgrading any part of the water kit, one of them is at the very least 11C cooler than an NHD-14, but probably more like 13C cooler ?

But with this chip of mine, I need to take it further, and try to get at least 20C cooler than an NHD-14, because full loads I would be looking at 100C with a cooler that averages 12C hotter than the NHD-14.

My SpinQ got me 72C @ 70% load in the first 2 seconds, I had to stop Medal Of Honor 2010 as soon as I saw it load a map.

This makes me wonder, could there be another reason I needed 1.52V to be stable with my 2600k @ 4.5Ghz ?

If I buy a more stable power supply, and switch out my GA-P67A-UD3 for an ASUS P67 Sabertooth, could this solve anything ?

Could it be my Vdroop setting, or the fact that my CPU pll was only set to 1.92v ? Someone also suggested check cpuid val?

Is anything other than the vcore and pll relevant in a sandy bridge overclock with no base clock changes ?'

But the focus of this thread is still to find out the absolute best waterblock, radiator, pump, reservior, fluid, and paste, from people like you guys and Tom

 

[SieB]

1.52v

HOLY S***, dude, the limit set by Intel is 1.38v you are seriously risking frying the chip at those volts. You are doing something wrong, I don't know what, but those volts are way to high, check out this thread http://forum.overclo...68-2600k-5ghz/. No wonder you are getting high temps.

I can't advise you on Watercooling because I don't know anything about it apart from H50/70s.

 

[robtmathias]

HOLY S***, dude, the limit set by Intel is 1.38v you are seriously risking frying the chip at those volts. You are doing something wrong, I don't know what, but those volts are way to high, check out this thread http://forum.overclo...68-2600k-5ghz/. No wonder you are getting high temps.

I can't advise you on Watercooling because I don't know anything about it apart from H50/70s.

Indeed. I am upgrading to a $200 Corsair single 12v-70A 850Watt gold certified psu that has over/under voltage protections on it.

And I am switching out my GA-P67A-UD3 for an Asus P67 Sabertooth board, unless anyone knows an even more stable one.

I am considering that low quality psu and mobo capacitors and mobo power delivery structure are a possibility to blame for instability at anything over 3.6Ghz.

However,

I am also wanting a thread on the absolute best waterblock, radiator, pump, and reservior combination.

I know Tom once said that a good waterblock/setup can be $500, but he didnt say if that included extra blocks and pump strength for vga and chipset cooling. These $270 - $340 kits appear to be between 11C and 16C cooler than the NHD-14, if i'm not wrong. But I need someone who knows the best waterblock, radiator, pump, and reservioir combo.

 

[SieB]

Indeed. I am upgrading to a $200 Corsair single 12v-70A 850Watt gold certified psu that has over/under voltage protections on it.

And I am switching out my GA-P67A-UD3 for an Asus P67 Sabertooth board, unless anyone knows an even more stable one.

I am considering that low quality psu and mobo capacitors and mobo power delivery structure are a possibility to blame for instability at anything over 3.6Ghz.

However,

I am also wanting a thread on the absolute best waterblock, radiator, pump, and reservior combination.

I know Tom once said that a good waterblock/setup can be $500, but he didnt say if that included extra blocks and pump strength for vga and chipset cooling. These $270 - $340 kits appear to be between 11C and 16C cooler than the NHD-14, if i'm not wrong. But I need someone who knows the best waterblock, radiator, pump, and reservioir combo.

Try the Liquid Cooling board i'm guessing you are more likely to find a answer there than you are on this board.

http://forum.overclock3d.net/index.php?/forum/8-liquid-cooling/

 

[Xochielt]

A few mates and I have tested about twenty waterblocks for CPU.

So when you want the VERY BEST waterblock, go for the

Cuplex Cryos .925 Silver Edition.

HERE is a link for you.

The official manufacturers homepage says, that it is for

1366, 1155, 1156 and 775, so you can go with it, but ask your

reseller.

If you think it is too expensive, you can go for a smaller

version of the Cuplex Cryos. Even the cheapest one ( delrin )

is better than all tested ones from EK and so on...

IMHO the best pump is the Laing DDC-1T/Plus. And you

can go with two, when you use a dual-top.

And if you really want to freak out, go for the MO-RA3!

Put nine NF-P14 FLX from Noctua on it, and you can cool

your CPU with 5GHz and additional a blast furnace

You can also go for the 9x120mm version of the MO-RA3

and equip it with nine Scythe GentleTyphoon. They are

the best performing fans I have ever seen. We changed a

lot of our fans in the datacenter-servers to these.

They can go up to 5400rpm and about 150CFM, but they

are a little bit louder than the Noctuas. About +30dB

Fast calculation about the price... uuuh...

With nine Nocutas, the MO-RA3, a Laing DDC-1T Plus and

the silver edition you are at about 570 pounds.

So when you do not go for the silver-edition you have enough

spare money to get your second Laing and the dual-top.

So - now you know the best cpu-waterblock, radiator, pump

and fan. Now some tips, how to outperform even these:

You could install more pumps and more radiators, until you

reach ambient-temperature during 100% load. After that

you have to go for TEC-Modules. Oh - and you could move

to Canada and remove all windows and make some holes in

the wall to lower the ambient-temperature. If nothing helps

you can move to the moon, equipped with some LN2 and

a few boxes of internet and energy for your PC

-Xoh

 

[robtmathias]

Appreciate it much!!!

I needed that!

This is WAY higher performing than what I had discovered!

I will buy your recommended waterblock and radiator,

Is the top plate material just decorative or does it have to do with conduction? Just curious. Ill probably get the HF version then the Silver one in a bit.

This was exactly what I had been looking for!

The best I had found was:

Apogee XT for waterblock over the SK and other common brands,

Black Ice GTX Extreme 480 Radiator, equipped w/ 4 120mm 38mm thick 5400rpm 250cfm fans, b/c the fins are so dense,

Pondmaster 2840 lph pump for 60Pounds ($80), its 110v instead of 12v, that would be your 220v pond/fountain pump, but they have ones double that output for not much more money,

Thanks again for saving me from getting stuff that doesnt work! I think the silver one is the best bet, I'll definitely put this advice to use. That radiator is far better than any I had discovered before!

On the other end I just bought a power filter/conditioner to plug my power supply into, and a corsair HX750 power supply, and tomorrow I am upgrading to a motherboard with much more stable voltage.

 

[adicool96]

Where in the world can you place the mo ra rad. That ones huge.

 

[ciksas]

The best : EK-Supreme HF CPU block, Laing D5-Pump. EK doesn't make the best rads but the are still better then the rest cheap sshhh. Anything else is on you to pick it.

 

[Gus]

OMG, with this stuff, if you don't push to 5.5ghz you can forget about overclocking...

You must be doing something wrong, I saw many OC at 5ghz with less than 1.40v... which you should be your absolute maximum. Higher than that voltage it is just useless and dangerous for your chip/MB. You're wasting your money imo. :x

 

[Xochielt]

I am glad that I could help you - that's what we

are here for, isn't it?

But you really have to think about what [member=adicool96]

said. The radiator is not mountable inside the case

for sure. And when you want to carry your PC around,

you have to use somebody's help or implement these

connectors to your waterloop which allow you to remove

a part of the loop without caring about removing all

the water and refilling it later. Maybe you can make

a small mod to your case, which fixes the MO-RA3 to

its sidepanel. Quite a lot of space of freedom here

Yeah - the top plate is just there for looking good.

I would go for the XT, HF or silver edition ( when money

allows ).

The only difference between XT and HF is the different

top-material. According to performance they are equal.

We have also tested a Apogee XT. We got two different

numbers for each waterblock. Horizontal with Laing-DDC

and horizontal with Laing-DDC/Plus. Some waterblocks

we've also tested vertical, but not the Apogee XT.

The Apogee XT scored ( H|DDC, H|DDCPlus ) :

40.5K, 40.3K

For you to compare, the Cryos scored:

35.2K, 35.3K

The values represent the difference from the water-

temperature to the ambient-temperature ( delta-T )

in Kelvin, regulated by our QuadCores average

core-temp. Luckily 14K difference to the ambient-temp

is equal to 14°C difference, so you do not have to

convert the values.

I also have some numbers from the MO-RA3 for you.

Again the delta-T thing here.

This time we have three different numbers for 500,

800 and 1200rpm.

Phobya G-Changer 240:

29.5K, 21.1K, 15.5K

MagiCool SLIM TRIPLE 360:

25.1K, 17.3K, 13.0K

MagiCool Xtreme 360:

25.4K, 15.7K, 11.8K

Watercool MO-RA 3 9x120 PRO

5.2K, 4.6K, 4.4K

The Numbers are gained with a Laing-DDC/Plus. Values

for Laing-DDC are also available.

The heating components for the radiator-tests were

an i7-920@3.8GHz 1.46V and two 8800GTX reference

clock. So the MO-RA3 should be able to simply blast

your CPUs heat

Oh yeah - and for these quick disconnection

couplings, we use ones from HERE.

Hope I could answer some questions

 

[robtmathias]

I am glad that I could help you - that's what we

are here for, isn't it?

Thanks!

I appreciate all that so much!

I was down for a few days getting the system working right.

New mobo, capable of stable voltages and all around better components, ($190 one vs the old $130 one)

New power supply, a good corsair capable of very stable voltages,

A power conditioner, it makes the AC Sine wave perfect again, gets rid of distortions, and stabilizes voltages

I spent alot of time tweaking the voltages perfect for my equipment,

RESULTS:

I have over 3X the frames per second, and 3X faster load times.

I am not exaggerating, you can have a chip run so poorly when things arent perfect, that appears "stable", and runs at the same clockspeed,

Or you can have 3X smoothness in game and also when loading things, or whatever you are working on

This is WITHOUT overclocking, It's just true stable

Not "clocks without crashing and things run kinda fast"

Chips don't work with unstable voltage, they smooth out completely with stable voltage, thats the end of it )

I am literally way more than 3X smoother.

200FPS in Medal of Honor 2010 @ 1920x1080, It was the most demanding game by far.

I am very happy with the decision I made, it's a whole new thing, it actually works.

The overclocking will come when I have money for that 9 fan rad and a cuplex kyros block.

THANKS for those numbers! That benchmark is great!

I will always know what to do from now on, just saving the money for the setup

That delta-T, you said it was the difference from the water over ambient, is this effectively the CPU core temp over ambient ?

4C over ambient with 1 of the radiator units

I see dual modded Laing DDC plus's will also have about 3.3gpm as their maximum flowrate completely unrestricted. (~500GPH, ~2000 lph), and cost under $100, and only a wattage rating of 18 watts. But still couldnt that cause oscillations in the power supply ?

I had found some 750GPH ~3000lph Pondmaster 110v (standard wall plug) fountain pumps that some people are using, that cost the same, but it would keep oscilations that a pump might cause from touching the computer's power supply, think it will perform as good in this 9x rad/kyros? Can there be too much pressure ?

They have a 500GPH same rating in that regard as DDC+ that has been dual modded, not sure head pressure or rise.

Thanks so much for that info!