5 pin power switch

[Ac1d]

New member here. Looking for some help on wiring in a power and reset switch.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10991/ele-739/UV_Illuminated_Vandal_Resistant_Momentary_Switch_-_16mm_-_Black_Housing_-_Dot_Illumination.html?tl=g52c343s1181


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8733/ele-399/UV_Illuminated_Vandal_Resistant_Latching_Switch_-_16mm_-_Black_Housing_-_Ring_Illumination.html?tl=g52c343s894


These are the switches I purchased. Ones a latching switch and the other is a momentary switch.

I was planning on using the latching for the power button and the momentary for the reset.

I honestly have zero idea of what I'm doing and read that if improperly wired it can blow the led. I've scoured the net , forums, youtube and still can't figure out how to wire it. As well as how to make the leds only be on when the computer is.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AlienALX]

You can't use a latching switch for the power button unless it's an old AT computer. latching means it stays latched in one position. If you did that the PC would start, then shut down (because in theory it is being held down). That will will need replacing.

The ad states that the max voltage is 12v. This must have some sort of resistor inside or outside the switch because LED voltage varies but is usually around 3v. Thus if you want them to live a happy life then you will need to run a 5v feed and ground to the LED pins. That is how I have mine wired (even though they said 12v) because IMO mine were far too bright at 12v and looked watered down (the colour).

Look down to the bottom right. Those are latching, but they are for lights on/off. You can't use latching on a PC though as I said.

Good news is that those switches you bought are pretty much the same ones you can buy in China for peanuts (about £4 each tops)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartSwit...349861&hash=item1c852511aa:g:PGAAAOSwR29ZFdh8

 

[Ac1d]

Alright I ordered a second momentary switch.

Now on to the wiring. I'm doing all this from my phone so I'll try my best with pictures / drawings.

 

[Ac1d]

 

[Ac1d]

 

[AlienALX]

OK well twisting my head around it looks nothing like the actual switch.

This is when you need a 3v line from a test PSU and a multimeter.

 

[AlienALX]

Right, now looking at the instructions I will rotate your switch and mark it. Why they couldn't have done it more simply IDK. Usually NC means not connected. Idiots.

This is your switch type here. Look at the leg pattern.

OK, so V+ = voltage plus (whatever you decide to feed it)
v- = voltage minus.

PS = power switch. Using these two should close the circuit and start the PC. If not then you are going to need a multimeter and set it to continuity and buzz the switch yourself (it's called buzzing because the multimeter will buzz when a completed circuit is made and the ground returns to it.

 

[Ac1d]

I uploaded images, but none of them seemed to come through. Any ideas I used the image link in the reply section after uploading them to a site.

 

[Wraith]

I uploaded images, but none of them seemed to come through. Any ideas I used the image link in the reply section after uploading them to a site.

Rather than copying the web addy and inserting it between IMG tags, right click your images and copy image location and set that between the links instead.

 

[Ac1d]

Not sure why my images weren't uploaded. I'll give it another go here.

I put a picture of the jumpers and wiring diagram. Just have no idea where to put what. I also don't know where a 5v power source is. There's a 4 pin cable that I was thinking of using. I'll have to check the voltage though.

Should I wire the switch for normally close or normally open?

 

[AlienALX]

A molex carries a 5v, GND GND and a 12v. 3v wire is orange, and comes out of your 24 pin.

This is why even though people hate Molex I still use them all the time. Especially as you can make 7v with one.

OK I just clocked.. In the top of the pic you just uploaded is a floppy power connector (in case you were wondering what that thing is). See the red? that is 5v. See the black next to it? that is ground. Use those to power your LEDs.

 

[Ac1d]

So what about the switch wiring? Is it normally closed or open?

Does it matter how the wires get connected to the motherboard? I noticed on the connector provided that there is an arrow. Not sure if it matters which direction I plug it in.

I just am nervous and don't want to blow anything.

 

[AlienALX]

So what about the switch wiring? Is it normally closed or open?

Does it matter how the wires get connected to the motherboard? I noticed on the connector provided that there is an arrow. Not sure if it matters which direction I plug it in.

I just am nervous and don't want to blow anything.

Normally closed means that when you press it it will break the circuit. IE - not what you want. If you do that you will wire the power button as if it is always pushed down. Then when you press it it will break the circuit.

I would imagine it is classed as "normally open" and then when you press it it closes the circuit and thus turns the PC on. If the LED lights up with the power (do that first) then it should not cause any damage to the mobo. It will either spaz out and keep turning on and off or it will turn on, then off, then stay off.

I suggest if you are getting into electronics that you buy a multi meter. Turn it to the setting where it beeps or buzzes when you connect the two prod rods together, then you will have the ability to test for circuits. They only cost about a fiver. Essential bit of kit.

 

[Ac1d]

Now it's time for cable management....

One thing I noticed is the led on the dot switch is far brighter than the ring.

They both worked. Although I didn't try to press the button in and hold it ( keep it submerged / depressed the latching switch).

It runs!!!