Water cooling
- Thread starter lamboman
- Start date
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nick25
Guest
When are you planning on buying? You may wish to go down the intel conroe route instead of AMD. Where you after a complete system from ep-uk or just the watercooling parts? Fell free to ask Phil for advice at enquiries@extremeprometeia.com
You say you're currently running a Mac, if you're new to computer building and extreme cooling it might be best to buy a complete system from Phil such as the 'Storm' which you can configure however you wish.
You say you're currently running a Mac, if you're new to computer building and extreme cooling it might be best to buy a complete system from Phil such as the 'Storm' which you can configure however you wish.
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nick25
Guest
Hi again, you can't really go wrong as far as watercooling goes with something like this:
Thermochill PA120.3 rad either with three 120mm fans in pull or six 120mm fans in a push/pull config. Which fans depends on whether you're going with performance or noise in mind and whether you're using a rheostat.
G5 Storm CPU block if you can get one of Swiftech G4 version named the ‘storm’ is currently the best performing waterblock I believe. The Cooltechnica MP-05 LE is also a good contender.
Danger Den Maze4 Acetal GPU block is widely available and a great performer. There is also the new Cooltechnica MP-1 which is similar or maybe slightly better performer than the Maze4. If you're running SLI then you can get two Maze4 low profile GPU blocks, which blocks exactly depends on what motherboard you plan to use as the spacing varies between the two PCIe16 slots. You can also get GPU waterblocks which cool the memory as well however they add restriction and ramsinks + low speed fan offer similar performance.
As for the pump - a dc pump will be much more convenient. Something like an Iwaki or Eheim pump will be robust and probable last longer but also be much bigger, dump more heat into the water etc I've had a couple of AquaExtreme50z (otherwise known as mcp600) and have been very happy with them. You plug it straight into your PSU and it only draws around 8 watts, it can also be overvolted to 13.8v resulting in increased performance although I wouldn't recommend doing this.
Other bits - I've always used a T-line as I personally find it easier but there are a number of reservoirs around, no doubt DangerDen make some. Use 1/2" tubing as anything smaller is too restrictive, tygon and primoflex is popular although fairly pricey. You can try DangerDens offering or alternatively buy some from B&Q and the likes. You'll need two 3/8" BSP barbs for the thermochill rad and a couple more if you have a res (size depends on res). I'd buy a handful of hose clips to secure all the connections. Don't use tap water as it can corrode and cloud watercooling systems, De-ionized water is also a no-no as it corrodes the blocks. Distilled water would be your best bet, you can additives if you like - some work better than others. There are also fluid replacements such as fluidxp, PCIce etc but they are expensive and results vary.
Cheers, Nick.
Thermochill PA120.3 rad either with three 120mm fans in pull or six 120mm fans in a push/pull config. Which fans depends on whether you're going with performance or noise in mind and whether you're using a rheostat.
G5 Storm CPU block if you can get one of Swiftech G4 version named the ‘storm’ is currently the best performing waterblock I believe. The Cooltechnica MP-05 LE is also a good contender.
Danger Den Maze4 Acetal GPU block is widely available and a great performer. There is also the new Cooltechnica MP-1 which is similar or maybe slightly better performer than the Maze4. If you're running SLI then you can get two Maze4 low profile GPU blocks, which blocks exactly depends on what motherboard you plan to use as the spacing varies between the two PCIe16 slots. You can also get GPU waterblocks which cool the memory as well however they add restriction and ramsinks + low speed fan offer similar performance.
As for the pump - a dc pump will be much more convenient. Something like an Iwaki or Eheim pump will be robust and probable last longer but also be much bigger, dump more heat into the water etc I've had a couple of AquaExtreme50z (otherwise known as mcp600) and have been very happy with them. You plug it straight into your PSU and it only draws around 8 watts, it can also be overvolted to 13.8v resulting in increased performance although I wouldn't recommend doing this.
Other bits - I've always used a T-line as I personally find it easier but there are a number of reservoirs around, no doubt DangerDen make some. Use 1/2" tubing as anything smaller is too restrictive, tygon and primoflex is popular although fairly pricey. You can try DangerDens offering or alternatively buy some from B&Q and the likes. You'll need two 3/8" BSP barbs for the thermochill rad and a couple more if you have a res (size depends on res). I'd buy a handful of hose clips to secure all the connections. Don't use tap water as it can corrode and cloud watercooling systems, De-ionized water is also a no-no as it corrodes the blocks. Distilled water would be your best bet, you can additives if you like - some work better than others. There are also fluid replacements such as fluidxp, PCIce etc but they are expensive and results vary.
Cheers, Nick.
maverik-sg1
New member
The new pumps with variable flow can be found at www.ep-uk.co.uk - and wil help you find the best balance of performance and turbulance - some of the new pumps are so pwerful - it's realy hard to bleed the system.
Having a variable flow is a dead good not just for set-up but for moise control too.
I agree with everything else Nick said above - the push-pull is great coz you can use 6 low speed 120mm fans, be near silent and get great cooling - but also for benching you can turn them up and get those few extra mhz (noisey as hell but decent score improvements).
Mav
Having a variable flow is a dead good not just for set-up but for moise control too.
I agree with everything else Nick said above - the push-pull is great coz you can use 6 low speed 120mm fans, be near silent and get great cooling - but also for benching you can turn them up and get those few extra mhz (noisey as hell but decent score improvements).
Mav
Nicks advise is pretty much spot on, except MasterKleer 7/16" ID is a better choice of tubing as:
low cost, ID matches the ID of most 1/2" hose barbs giving a smoother flow path, it provides a snug tight seal generally abolishing the need for hoseclamps due to marginally smaller ID and has a very nice bend radius for tight bends without kinking, oh and it looks smaller and less cluttered and if UV floats your boat it doesnt have UV filters so maximised your UV effect.[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][/FONT]
low cost, ID matches the ID of most 1/2" hose barbs giving a smoother flow path, it provides a snug tight seal generally abolishing the need for hoseclamps due to marginally smaller ID and has a very nice bend radius for tight bends without kinking, oh and it looks smaller and less cluttered and if UV floats your boat it doesnt have UV filters so maximised your UV effect.[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][/FONT]
Phil Stanbridge
New member
I'm going to be stocking the MasterKleer tubing now I have found a supplier 
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nick25
Guest
Unreal - thanks for the heads up dude, sounds rather good will check it out.
