Water cooling Supplies in Canada

D

DavidT

New member
Hey,

I'm looking to finally setup my computer with a water cooling system, but I'm having difficulty finding a good online retailer in Canada that has a decent selection of parts.

Would anyone happen to know of any Canadian retailers that sells decent parts?

I checked NCIX, they have a lot but none of it is in stock. TigerDirect and CanadaComputers have squat.

Any help would be appreciated :)
 
Actually, it's ok now. I managed to build a good set from NCIX and Bigfoot computers. Thanks for the offer though.

How does this look:

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock

Radiator: HW Labs Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator

Pump: Swiftech MCP655 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump

Resevoire: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Clear HI-FLOW Water Cooling Reservoir

Tubing: Clearflex 60 Tubing 1/2IN ID 7/8IN OD 10 Feet

Clamps: Stainless Steel 1/2" ID Standard Hose Clamp (x8)

Additive: 4oz Zerex Super Coolant Additive

Total: $283 CAD

($333 CAD after Tax + S&H)

I'm only interested in cooling my CPU right now as it's the only part that is starting to get hot. I have a Core 2 Duo E6400 overclocked to 3.5Ghz right now, running at about 39-40C idle. With water, I should be able to get it down to the low 30's or high 20's idle.
 
name='DavidT' said:
Actually, it's ok now. I managed to build a good set from NCIX and Bigfoot computers. Thanks for the offer though.

How does this look:

CPU Block: Swiftech Apogee GT Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock

Radiator: HW Labs Black Ice GT Stealth 120 Radiator

Pump: Swiftech MCP655 12V Industrial Water Cooling Pump

Resevoire: Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Clear HI-FLOW Water Cooling Reservoir

Tubing: Clearflex 60 Tubing 1/2IN ID 7/8IN OD 10 Feet

Clamps: Stainless Steel 1/2" ID Standard Hose Clamp (x8)

Additive: 4oz Zerex Super Coolant Additive

Total: $283 CAD

($333 CAD after Tax + S&H)

I'm only interested in cooling my CPU right now as it's the only part that is starting to get hot. I have a Core 2 Duo E6400 overclocked to 3.5Ghz right now, running at about 39-40C idle. With water, I should be able to get it down to the low 30's or high 20's idle.
Click to expand...
Looks good mate, it should keep the temps nice and cool for you
 
I'd stick with your MCP655 personally. It'll put you in good stead as you add to your loop later. The Laing D5 (MCP655) provides slightly more flow than the Eheim, but, it'll also dump more heat into your loop than the Eheim will if you run it above 12V (you will notice this wth the size of your rad). The Eheim is an AC pump, which can be painful as it uses a power cord which you'll have to accomodate. Depending on what you are going to add to your loop later, the Eheim may cope ok.

So ultimately the choice is yours, but I'd be looking at the D5 out of the two pumps you listed.
 
Maybe a 240mm rad insted of a 120? It'll cool better, let you use quieter fans and allow room for expansion.
 
Yeah I was going to suggest going 120.3 in my first post (user has 680i, SLI setup etc) but he said that he was only interested in cooling cpu atm so I left my post as is.

@ DavidT: When you decide to add to your loop just be sure to invest in a larger rad - 120.3. It'll be the only size that'll handle cpu, 2 x gpu and possibly chipset if you are that way inclined.
 
Thanks for the info on the pumps, I think i'll stick with the Swiftech.

I was going to look into a double, maybe even a tripple rad, but the only problem is that I currently have an TT Armor Jr. case, which has no room for a double let alone a tripple. So right now I'm pretty much stuck with 120.1.
 
Just a note, the pump isn't made by swiftech ;) Its the Laing D5. And yes its better than the ehiem.

Petra's Tech Shop will ship international, and their owners are very nice people. http://www.shoppts.com/ Email Quoc or Alex and I think they'll be able to sort something out for you. They have a very very nice selection of watercooling stuff at very good prices :)

Now about the rad issue. A 120.1 rad will be totally PATHETIC. I understand the Armor Jr. is small, but you should figure out a way to put at least a 120.2 into the case. 120.1 rads will give you totally pathetic water temps, esp. if you're planning to stick it in the exhaust. I suggest you buy a very cheap electric drill and a circular saw, a very cheap dremel, or a very cheap jigsaw, and cut holes into your case to fit a larger rad. Its absolutely essential that you have a lot of "radiatorage".
 
Now if you're going to do that then don't get the radbox...its a total waste of money (who the hell pays 20 dollars for a piece of plastic with holes in it???). What I would do in that case, would be to get some long screws, and attach a 120.2 or 120.3 to it. Reverse all the fans so they blow backwards TOWARDS the case.

Sorry my last post lacked some things. There are several ways to mount a rad if you don't have a case such as the mm UFO, lian li v series, or silverstone tjs, or any case that has a place where you can conveniently mount a 120.2 or 120.3 rad without any hassle. 1. Put the rad on the bottom. This requires you to put a few holes into the bottom of the case and you might sacrifice a few PCI slots. 2. Put it on the top of the case, and use standoffs to keep it away from getting smothered by the case. This way is somewhat ugly...but it can be made to look nice and if you like it go ahead. It only needs a few small holes for the standoffs. 3. Cut fan holes in the top of your case and mount it INTERNALLY. This might require the sacrifice of a few drive bays :( 4. Put the rad IN the 5.25" drive bays. This will sacrifice a TON of drive bays, but is relatively convenient (screw the rad into the holes meant for the drive bay covers or use some other method to get it in there). 5. Mount the rad in the back of the case with a radbox, or long screws. You might run into the problem of the PSU's hot air going into the rad, or not being able to easily fit cables.
 
Only problem with most of those methodes is that I don't have the tools to do it. I could drill some holes in the bottom of the case, unfortunately I need all the PCI slots I can get. Also, I just noticed that because of the stupid way the TT Armor Jr. is designed in the back (The 120mm Fan port is about 1/2" further back then the rest of the case), it will prevent me from mounting a dual Rad in the back. I would need to get uber long screws to be able to fit a 120.2 back there, and even then, I have so many cables that would be in the way it's not funny.

I think what I'll do is just stick with a 120.1 for now, and in the near future I'll purchase a new case with the proper accomodations for a 120.2 or 120.3 Rad.

Instead of getting the HW GT Stealth, I'll pick up the HW GTX instead. (At least it will be somewhat better)
 
DO NOT BUY AN HW LABS RAD!!!!!

They are totally PATHETIC. This is a FACT. The only one of their rads worth buying at all is the BIP because 1. its cheaper than any other rad that's semi-decent to decent. 2. its the smallest rad there is.

I feel your pain, my thermaltake case has a pathetic design that inhibits many possibilities for me as well. I have a thermaltake aguila...

Anyways, you said you could drill holes into the bottom of the case. What do you think of drilling holes on the top of the case?
 
It might be difficult to fit it into the top of the case simply because it's so crampped up there (The PSU is right at the top).

Also, whats so bad about HW rads? They look decent. I looked at some Thermochills, but they're super expensive (double the price of any other rads out there).
 
name='DavidT' said:
It might be difficult to fit it into the top of the case simply because it's so crampped up there (The PSU is right at the top).

Also, whats so bad about HW rads? They look decent. I looked at some Thermochills, but they're super expensive (double the price of any other rads out there).
Click to expand...

Swiftech MCR series and the Coolingworks Coolrad series are much better. BIP is somewhat poor performing, and a bit restrictive, but its tiny. BIX is fat, restrictive, poor performer, and expensive. BI GTS is WAYYYYY TOOO RESTRICTIVE. BI BTX is super expensive, not as good of a performer as PA (thermochill), makes too much noise because of the air going through the fins, has crap performance unless you throw very very powerful and super loud fans on, AND is restrictive.

Thermochills are the absolute best, and the MCR and coolrads are very very close to each other, performancewise, and pricewise.
 
Are the barbs on the MCR120 replaceable? I'd have no problem getting one of those instead of the HW GTX, but it says it comes with built in 3/8" barbs.

So i'm wondering if they mean built right in (as in irreplaceable) or as in it just comes with 3/8" barbs.
 
Well, I just placed the order for the CPU Block.

Decided to go for the D-Tek Fuzion instead of the Apogee, it went on sale for less then the Apogee.

And I researched the Swiftech MCR120 QP Rad a little bit more, and I was right, the fittings don't come off. So I have no choice but to go with the HW GTX right now. Later on I'll upgrade it when I have a suitable case.
 
You're correct, MCR120 comes with 3/8" barbs that are fixed on. I devised a simple mod that will let you throw 1/2" tubes on, or you can just use adapters. You will regret buying a GTX or GTS, because they are restrictive and are noisy (high fin density hint hint). If you're really stuck on this, get a BIP. Anyhow, a new case most likely won't solve your problems. Very few cases will fit a rad without modification. Time to whip out the handy jigsaw :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Smooth old school Corsair 600T
Replies
16
Views
7K
WillSK
WillSK
AlienALX
Planning. Opinions welcome.
2 3 4
Replies
76
Views
22K
AlienALX
AlienALX
A
Non-A RTX 2080 at 2100MHz/8250MHz and 41c
Replies
2
Views
9K
trawetSluaP
trawetSluaP
A
Project SparklePony - Thermaltake 2020 Case Mod Challenge
2
Replies
29
Views
6K
AcuteJungle66
A
tolagarf
Water Cooled GPU Crypto Mining
Replies
9
Views
4K
tolagarf
tolagarf
Back
Top