Pissed Off!

Stoned

New member
P***ed Off!

Computer isnt working again, same symptons as last time

Who wants to put money on the back off the board suffering from condensation damage again despite all the care and effort I put into ensuring a perfect seal. I also sprayed the new board with PCB laquer.

I'm going to be extreemly angry if it turns out to be condensation death. Makes you wonder just why nVentiv went bankrupt!!

Will find out tomorrow.
 
Stoned said:
Computer isnt working again, same symptons as last time

Who wants to put money on the back off the board suffering from condensation damage again despite all the care and effort I put into ensuring a perfect seal. I also sprayed the new board with PCB laquer.

I'm going to be extreemly angry if it turns out to be condensation death. Makes you wonder just why nVentiv went bankrupt!!

Will find out tomorrow.

lmao, u cnt ave a pop at nventiv m8, if u own a promie u jus ave 2 relax and take ur time, get sum dc4 (dielectric grease) and put it on the underside of ur mobo and over the cpu socket and around the socket. u wnt ave any more boards dyin on u :D

shigs
 
Stoned said:
Computer isnt working again, same symptons as last time

Who wants to put money on the back off the board suffering from condensation damage again despite all the care and effort I put into ensuring a perfect seal. I also sprayed the new board with PCB laquer.

I'm going to be extreemly angry if it turns out to be condensation death. Makes you wonder just why nVentiv went bankrupt!!

Will find out tomorrow.

In all honesty mate it must be condensation caused by an air gap in the seal string. I personally have built up around 160 Mach II's - in that time I have had about half a dozen instances of condensation - its not always a killer, so there must be something seriously wrong with the way you apply it.
 
I dont want to sound touchy but I am certain there are no gaps when im done. I use torches and carefully inspect ever seal. I *really* took my time a few weeks back when the last board went.

It just annoys me that you do everything they say and these things go wrong. If you need a grease then fine, I have no problem with that but they could have supplied it and said you should use it.

When you get home from work the last thing you wanna be doing is taking your PC apart again.

What else could be wrong. How can I check that heat pad is working. If I turn it on it wont get really hot I assume, just warm?

Thanks for your help
 
You dont have to use grease but it is highly recommended. Its like applying a turbo-charger in essence, things can and do go wrong if you dont know what you're doing - please dont take it personally, its just a LOT of condensation problems are user related.
 
try and calm down mate...

try :p

i know the feeling...my first board lasted 3 months...the second a week...

both dead from condensation...

i then used some dielectric grease...

it seems that it worked great....both in the front and the back of the board....

i now have bought a MAX 3 to try mate...as it might have been something in the asus design that might have caused it...

2 layers of seal string etc...is what i am using this time...

and i got some neoprene which i havent used yet...but i will

Take your time...i know its a PITA but...u cant do anything else...before leaving the UK a week? ago i though why shouldnt i sell the GT mach 2 and get some watercooling gear off phil for piece of mind...but phase change is another world...

seriously if i lose another board from condensation cos i run then 24/7 i will surely be leaving phase change for a while...who knows i may get a Vapo LS dunno...but watercooling is surely something i had in my plans...

they say condensation...no matter what WILL find a way to go through your insulation every single time...

use some grease and give it another chance...make sure you apply loads in the areas you should...
 
standin wave said:
Notice how the top level title cant be 'cleaned up' but the actual post title can

Does it catch p!$$3d as well:D

sw

yeah the only way to do it would be to delete it, but I'd rather not go deleting people's threads.
 
Does anyone know where I can buy DC4 grease and the relevant degreaser from online?

Someone suggested Farnell but you have to create a minimum order of £20 :(

Many thanks

Chris

p.s. was a faulty board from condensation damage again *sigh*
 
Hey.... I think I have a load of all that stuff laying about spare at home.... think aXer gave me a load wen I bought me mach II off him... aXer will be able to verify what's there....as I haven't unwrapped it yet :P
 
Ah it's OK I have some now, and a new motherboard.

3rd time lucky I hope...

Can I just confirm with the grease I should

1) Put it in the cpu hole and fill it up

2) cover the rear of the motherboard

This wont affect anything I hope?

Many thanks

Chris
 
Yep,squirt it through the pin-holes first (force it in with an old credit card or similar), then fill up the socket totally and level off with credit card.Clean any excess around socket with plain cotton bud.Personally i dont put grease on the back,as i'm convinced the problems start in the socket somewhere.I was gonna do a guide for this stuff,.....but then i got high (yeah,sing it),na seriously will do a guide soon.Good luck.
 
Right, on my 3rd board now. I did what you said but I put DC4 everywhere :)

It's in the socket, the pins, around the socket and on the back. I'm not taking any chances this time.

I really hope it works. If it doesnt then back to watercooling for me.

Cheers
 
Vaseline works superb as a Dielectric / Luberex / DC4 alternative... s'all I use these days, and SealingString can be purchased from the baths & showers section at B&Q.

If you've put DC4 anywhere where sealing string normally sticks, then clean it all off or (obviously) your sealing string won't stick and therefore won't seal, the CPU will sweat, and you'll be right back to square one. Keep all grease at least 3mm away from sealing string on the board as it "settles", and avoid handling sealing string with greasy fingers or you'll ruin however much you handle...
 
as phil knows the last few weeks ive been havin some condensation probs and as of yet i aint been able to fix them...

thing is ive take some of my time today to read alot of posts on this board and i see alot of ppl suggesting some DC4 grease.. whatever that is but well anyway why are ppl using this and if its something that is needed why did nventiv never supply any..?
 
its dielectric grease used for condensation proofing electrical contacts, i beleave on farnell they give examples such as air craft and specific operating temperature ranges.

Nventiv didnt ship it with the kit i assume because they thought it wasnt needed, and/or wasnt deemed necersarry to the failure rate of excluding its use compared to the cost of shipping it with each unit, that or they misssed it ;)

But this equipment is profession kinda so i guess a level of knowledge might have been assumed, even though its sold in a nice package.

I finally got some luberex today (originally ordered from farnell canceled due to there lack of abillity) got it from over-clock.co.uk they have DC4 as well.

the box says it is :-

-----------

Luberex

The modern white lubricant.

Calcium stearate base grease.

Ideal all purpose lubricant.

Excellen dielectric properties.

Superior calcium stearate base grease compound for general use in industry, the shop or at home. Provides excellent lubrication for bearings, appliances, handtools, bycicles, fishing reels,and automotive uses, Excellent Dielectric propoeties make luberex ideal for all types of electrical contacts.

-------

when it comes to any form of condensation related problem from pelts to um well prommies and vapo's every post i have read said get the grease and every thing will be good.
 
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