What up...just got my stuff together and its running right now in the bios. The mach started up and cooled to -50 before turning the pc on before climbing to -56....check. In the bios the processor temp (fx60) reads -17. After about 5 min the gt reads -53 and the bios reads -13. Is the processor temp too high? I know the mobo might not be that accurate but that seems low at idle. I also know that the mach takes its readings from the cap tube which is why the temps differ so greatly but Im just worried that the proc temp is high. If this seems normal please let me know asap. Also, under full load and overclocking does that mean the temp may go positive if this current reading is normal? thanks in advance.
Ok...just a little info on temps please
- Thread starter BOA279
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maverik-sg1
New member
If thats standard GT then its right, good nearly, FX60 is the hottest AMD CPU out there right now and that seems to cope admirably with it.
Also, knowing the cold bug issues with FX60 your are in the right range to max out your overclock.
Cheers
Mav
Also, knowing the cold bug issues with FX60 your are in the right range to max out your overclock.
Cheers
Mav
CRAP!!! I just tried to go ahead with the windows install and as soon as it left the bios I got the blue screen. A few seconds later the screen started to shake and I tried to turn her off with the power button.the mach said "no shut down" and the computer kept running so I turned the power off. ANy help please
maverik-sg1
New member
Sounds like another day in teh world of computing.
Best to list your system specs here, it makes it easier for us to help you
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If it's a DFI mobo I assume you have updated your BIOS, in fact most mobos need a BIOS update to be FX60 compatable? I also assume that your doing the basics with just one stick of ram in?
Mav
Best to list your system specs here, it makes it easier for us to help you
.If it's a DFI mobo I assume you have updated your BIOS, in fact most mobos need a BIOS update to be FX60 compatable? I also assume that your doing the basics with just one stick of ram in?
Mav
Ok here goes...Its an a8n32-sli, fx60, 2 gig (matched pair) OCZ plat. edition 2-3-2-5 and a single 7900 gtx. Just got everything together for the first time about 30 minutes ago. Also, just to let you know I bought this mach on ebay and it came with a the 939 kit (used also). Who ever the guy was that had this amd kit, he cut all of the support feet of the front bracket so it sat completely flat. I could'nt use it like that because there are too many little components around the socket. So, I made 4 little feet from an old antec case (plastic front bezel). I applied the mach head to the bracket to see how the arctic 5 transfered to the proc to the cooler and it was pretty good coverage concidering I didnt apply all that much pressure. I was also a little nervous about tightening the 2 screws that hold the head to the proc after reading some stories in the forums so they are tight enought the head wont move around but not tight tight. Anyway, i used LOTS of seal string and a little silicone grease to both the front and back of the mobo and socket (its not touching the seal string though) Don't know if this is that relevant but the plastic top of the cooler head as its attached to the board is much warmer than either side or bottom...any suggestions?
just something else thats getting to me...the lcd on the mach has never turned off since ive played with it. Before everything was here I played with it by itself and as soon as the power cable is installed the lcd comes on in "standby". Ive never seen it off with the power applied to the back...is this normal?
Phil Stanbridge
New member
The Standard GT is the Mach II GT - they are one and the same. It goes like this:-
Mach II ST
Mach II
Mach II GT
Mach II r507 (modified)
EP-UK Extreme Chilly1 (modified)
Mach II ST
Mach II
Mach II GT
Mach II r507 (modified)
EP-UK Extreme Chilly1 (modified)
Phil Stanbridge
New member
It sounds like you may have possibly corrupted the controller firmware - but just let it settle down and try it again. If you get the same problem, ie, NO SHUT DOWN then you could try flashing the firmware on the controller via the supplied software.
Phil Stanbridge
New member
The LCD is always on - it is powered directly by the 240v.
Yep, try it again and report back.
Yep, try it again and report back.
ok...just tried again and it went to -50 computer turned on and went to bios. Looked at hardware monitor and saw the special stand alone fan for the a8n32-sli heatpipe chipset was N/A. It was working the first time so I need to play for a minute and figure out why its not running. just a minute. The board read -20 but it was only on for 1 or 2 minutes....be right back
ok...got it back...i had it plugged into the cpu fan slot thinking the motherboard would freak out with no fan signal...and it did but i set it to ignore and put it in a normal case fan slot...must not have been spinning due to the temp....found out that the pc shut down this time when button pushed from within the bios....gonna try to install windows now and see if it locks up again....back in a minute
Ok....now another probelm. I only got the blue screen the very first time. Since then the only crazy thing is the screen thing. Random crap comes up on the screen so i can't read anything but I can see that windows is still partitioning the drive during install....doesnt freeze just displays crap. Do you think this could have something to do with the firmware on mobo (512 7900gtx card) or something else....I can sit in the bios as long as I want and screen is normal. Bootup and post is also normal...only does it (so far) during windows install. (about 2 minutes into it) Thanks.
maverik-sg1
New member
Well even when mine is swtiched off the display is on.
Cutting the feet has its advantages - for starters it allows you to get a better contact on the CPU, hence my comment saying temps are pretty good. The disadvantage is that soemtime to get a nice level seat you need to dremel out parts of the black plastic as to accomodate some of the surface mounted components on the board. it's okay to do this as long as you still put the seal string over the cut-out bits.
The heat on the head is due to a heater installed on mach units to prevent condensation in the mach unit head itself - if it's nice and warm then it's good.
The A8N-32 sLi is a good board to use (layout is not everyones ciup of tea mind). the otehr components are great too.
If you look on the sticker at the back of the mach it will tell you if it's a GT or not - what it wont tell you is if it's been re-gassed (check with supplier). A standard mach is tuned to around 150w and uses r134 gas, a GT is tuned to 180w and uses R404a gas.
The reason why u got that message on the mach is that machs have a built in timer so you cant just switch off and restart - it's safety feature to allow the gas to settle before the compressor starts up again, the timer is 2 or 3 minutes delay before start-up.
The bolts need to be reasonably tight to ensure that under load the CPU gets the best possible contact - don't use AS5, use either alumina or preferably Ceramique (all artic silver porducts).
You know if you got good contact coz when you remove the head it look as though where the heads was is all speckled in a nice square (dots of compound and you still see the metal of the CPU).
What PSU do you have?
Mav
Cutting the feet has its advantages - for starters it allows you to get a better contact on the CPU, hence my comment saying temps are pretty good. The disadvantage is that soemtime to get a nice level seat you need to dremel out parts of the black plastic as to accomodate some of the surface mounted components on the board. it's okay to do this as long as you still put the seal string over the cut-out bits.
The heat on the head is due to a heater installed on mach units to prevent condensation in the mach unit head itself - if it's nice and warm then it's good.
The A8N-32 sLi is a good board to use (layout is not everyones ciup of tea mind). the otehr components are great too.
If you look on the sticker at the back of the mach it will tell you if it's a GT or not - what it wont tell you is if it's been re-gassed (check with supplier). A standard mach is tuned to around 150w and uses r134 gas, a GT is tuned to 180w and uses R404a gas.
The reason why u got that message on the mach is that machs have a built in timer so you cant just switch off and restart - it's safety feature to allow the gas to settle before the compressor starts up again, the timer is 2 or 3 minutes delay before start-up.
The bolts need to be reasonably tight to ensure that under load the CPU gets the best possible contact - don't use AS5, use either alumina or preferably Ceramique (all artic silver porducts).
You know if you got good contact coz when you remove the head it look as though where the heads was is all speckled in a nice square (dots of compound and you still see the metal of the CPU).
What PSU do you have?
Mav
maverik-sg1
New member
name='justin' said:
Can't believe I am doing this :O
I actually agree with justin here that has all the signs of the card being broken or underpowered.
I am assuming to installed it in the primary PCI-E slot, and that it is correctly seated and that the card has teh power cable connected to the back of it.
Again what PSU have you got, please say a FSP700w or higher :O
Can you drop in some pics of your rig?
Mav
GREAT INFO MAV! First let me say I fixed the crazy graphics thing...seems like the bios that comes with the a8n32-sli has compatibility issues with all 7900 series cards. The A8n-sli has no problem at all I guess. So a quick bios flash and its working like a champ. (might be a good sticky for others...had me going crazy for an hour) Anyway, ATM I have a 700 watt robanton powersupply a got a year or two ago...thats next on the menu.
Good to know the heat on the head is normal
Have to order some ceramique I guess...its working at the moment but your the man
The sticker says GT on the back but the compressor says R134A..what gives? Just been re-gassed like you mentioned?
One new question: At approx. what temp would you expect to see the mach read under mild overclocking and full load. What's a temp range that's a good warning sign something is not right? If you happen to know, whats the "don't go above this" temp for the FX-60.
Your info is invaluable...thanks for slowing my heart rate
Good to know the heat on the head is normal
Have to order some ceramique I guess...its working at the moment but your the man
The sticker says GT on the back but the compressor says R134A..what gives? Just been re-gassed like you mentioned?
One new question: At approx. what temp would you expect to see the mach read under mild overclocking and full load. What's a temp range that's a good warning sign something is not right? If you happen to know, whats the "don't go above this" temp for the FX-60.
Your info is invaluable...thanks for slowing my heart rate
