Need tips - i7 970 OC

Ralm

New member
Hi there people,

Im starting to have fun in overclocking. At the beginning I just did it for performance, now I actually do it as an achievement.

So Im trying to get a good 4.2Ghz OC on my i7 970.

I manage to have it 15min stable, although I will ask you not to care too much at the temps since Im using the stock cooler in Silent mode (only spins up to 1800RPM, in Performance goes to 2400RPm and I will use it next time):

Intel_i7-980X_Cooler.jpg


So, this is my results:

J19qn.jpg


The first time I started running it I got 1 error on worker 1 so I stoped and put the voltage a notch higher.

So, Im using HT, the boost thing, so the processor throttles when not in use, but I disable the one that goes beyond the defined speed.

I have 6 sticks of memory and Im running it at stock 1600Mhz speed and CL8.

In TurboV, all the advanced stuff is Auto, since I dont know what they are or what values to put on it.

LLC is on.

Im looking for tips in getting a lower voltage and keep it stable.

Thanks,
Ralms.

P.S.: Im saving for a watercooling loop, so they think about the cooler =)
 
Last edited:
I can get you a hint.You are about to kill your i7-970 if you proceed testing at these temps.If vcore(cpu voltage) need small adjustments in an upwards going spiral,it has started to degrade.Please do yourself a favour and get some decent cooling.
 
I know that, it was at those temps for 10 min.

As I said multiple times, dont look at the temps. The cooler in performance mode can hold it at 70C easy and not 85.

And above all that, Im not running that 24/7, I just want to try and see what I can get and then use this clock with watercooling set-up.

Thank you for your consern anyway and I wont raise the volts anymore because it looks stable, altough I didnt test it that much. What I want is to lower the volts and keep the same clock.

Ralms
 
I would say do the overclocking once you have the watercooling setup and running, simply because if the temps start to get out of control when you bump the voltage if it's, not stable with the current voltage then you could kill your chip due to heat.

I never try overclocking on the stock heatsink and fan simply because of the temps, and you never really get a good idea what the chip is capable off using the stock cooler simply because you cannot really push them, which is why I always do the overclocking once I have the cooling setup running.
 
I would say do the overclocking once you have the watercooling setup and running, simply because if the temps start to get out of control when you bump the voltage if it's, not stable with the current voltage then you could kill your chip due to heat.

I never try overclocking on the stock heatsink and fan simply because of the temps, and you never really get a good idea what the chip is capable off using the stock cooler simply because you cannot really push them, which is why I always do the overclocking once I have the cooling setup running.

Hi there,

I didnt want to raise the voltage anymore. I wanted to get it lower. And about the temps I will stress it later tonight with the fan at 100% because its a massive diference. The only problem with it is the noise, it sounds like a jet plane lol. So freaking loud. Now Im on windows 8, lets see if windows doesnt crash when I close prime looool.

But yeah, Im aware of the problem with the temps and those temps was on a 15min run and I was like stop, dont stop it, but my mate wanted to go play so I left it so I could take the print to ask help here.

I will try see what temps I get with the fan on 100%, if I get more then 75C I wait for Water Cooling.

Thanks for the warning.

Note: This OC is not for 24/7, not until I get the Water cooling. Im running 4Ghz for 24/7 at 200/20 with 1,26v or something around that.
 
QPI volts are too high for 1600mh, you only need to touch that when trying for 200 BCLK and 2000 memory.

So if you can get it stable at 4.2 fine but you are just trying to lower the voltage but cant surely you see you have found the lowest voltage point right?

If you are having it watercooled then tbh Ive be looking for a 24/7 4.4GHz overclock as a minimum.

I used to run mine at 4.6 and it wasnt working up that much of a sweat.
 
QPI volts are too high for 1600mh, you only need to touch that when trying for 200 BCLK and 2000 memory.

So if you can get it stable at 4.2 fine but you are just trying to lower the voltage but cant surely you see you have found the lowest voltage point right?

If you are having it watercooled then tbh Ive be looking for a 24/7 4.4GHz overclock as a minimum.

I used to run mine at 4.6 and it wasnt working up that much of a sweat.

Hi there Tom,

About the QPI Im not sure if I touch it or if its on auto, but I will check and bring them down. I dont understand too much about some of the paramenters yet that is why I asked for tips so I wouldnt mess up in the process. Do you think 1.2v is a good target?? or lower?

About the voltage, well, yeah. Before that 15min run I had it at 1,35v at Prime95 gave me an error at worker 1. So I stoped and got it up a notch to 1,36v and then it was stable for those 15min in Prime, didnt test anywhere else for now since Im not looking for a 24/4 stable OC yet.
With this system I kinda learnt a lesson, to as less sticks of memory as possible. I really feel that 6 sticks is making it harder to get the CPU stable, that is why I up the memory a notch to 1,62v.

Now what you said about 24/7 kinda left me happy XD 4.4Ghz in WaterCooling. That is awesome. But for 4,4Ghz dont you need like 1,45v? isnt that too much for the CPU? wouldnt it reduce the lifespam of the CPU over time?

Thanks for the tips,
Ralms.
 
Hi there again,

As I though, the QPI volts were auto.
Anyway, now Im using windows 8 so I dont have that Asus program with the stuff.
On top of that, I finally sent my brain to china and wasted 450€ on the watercooling loop which will run the CPU only for now, and as Tom said, is SO OVERKILL lool But I want to add a graphic card when I upgrade my system next year or so.

I got XSPC parts, RX360, D5 vario, Combo Bay res for the single D5 and a Raystorm CPU Block. Note the leds that come with the block are pure crap. I broke one of them instantly as I put it on.
For fittings Im using Bitspower limited edition white compression fitting for the Thermochill 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD tubing. And I bought the SP120 Performance although they are a bit loud with fan reducers but push a lot of air.

Forgetting all that, now Im overclocking the CPU more because I can and Tom mentioned 4.4Ghz but Im afraid because of the voltages. Im not experienced with overclocking and I dont know how far can I push it.

This is my results in 50min Prime95 with 4.2GHz at 200*21 with 1.356v on bios:

2m6o3ux.jpg


Any ideias?

Thanks.
 
You temps are very healthy, I can't foresee any drama up to 1.4v :)

Ok so I was trying to reach the 4.4Ghz, which is my goal and Im starting to have a hard time with it.

The ratios are the same, 200 x 22 for 4.4GHz.

I was watching a bit earlier the ammount of volts that tom needed to oc this processor on the rampage. I know they are all diferent but was to have an ideia.

Ok so I tried with 1.403v on bios, Blue Screen when starting Prime95
1.418v on bios, Blue Screen 5min into prime95

1.425 and the step above they are giving error in prime and I really didnt want to push the volts this high for a 24/7 Overclock.

So I saw some options in the bottom of the AI tweaker that left me curious if that would help, but since I dont know what it mean/does I left it on auto as it was before.

Here is some pictures of my bios when testing:

This are the options I was talking about.
15yewm1.jpg


This is was 1 of the attempts:
19mbli.jpg


Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
You want to disable both spread spectrums.

Set IOH voltage @~ 1.2 to be super there's no problem there, and you can bump the qpi/dram voltage all the way up to 1.4 if that helps. Disable C1E & eist too. It doesn't makes sense to play with the PLLv, since you allready have 200bclk stable.

Having all the above sorted, it's all about vcore from there on, and yes, 4.4GHz won't come within an "efficient" voltage spot. It's between 3.8-4.2 when most of those chips get the best wattage/performance ratio :)

But have fun finding the limits of your chip, you have great temps and 1.45 vcore won't kill it either. You have to really try to degrade those gulftowns. Play, get yourself the scores you are after and then settle to a frequency @ ~ 1.35v that will enable you to even lower those fans for 24/7 usage ;)
 
You want to disable both spread spectrums.

Set IOH voltage @~ 1.2 to be super there's no problem there, and you can bump the qpi/dram voltage all the way up to 1.4 if that helps. Disable C1E & eist too. It doesn't makes sense to play with the PLLv, since you allready have 200bclk stable.

Having all the above sorted, it's all about vcore from there on, and yes, 4.4GHz won't come within an "efficient" voltage spot. It's between 3.8-4.2 when most of those chips get the best wattage/performance ratio :)

But have fun finding the limits of your chip, you have great temps and 1.45 vcore won't kill it either. You have to really try to degrade those gulftowns. Play, get yourself the scores you are after and then settle to a frequency @ ~ 1.35v that will enable you to even lower those fans for 24/7 usage ;)

Hi there,

Well that was some in-depth help.

I just was trying to reach 4.4GHz because of what tom said.
"If you are having it watercooled then tbh Ive be looking for a 24/7 4.4GHz overclock as a minimum."

So I was going for the 4.4Ghz but I want my chip to last at least more 2 years.
I really not trying to see what is the max for bench, Im just looking for the best 24/7 clock taking in account that Im using watercooling.

So you dont recomend higher then 1.35v for 24/7?

Thanks a lot for the help and I will try what you said.
 
Don't get me wrong, you can certainly go higher that 1.35v if you want to, since your temps are that good.

If you don't care about power consumption, go for that 4.4GHz. I know a couple 980X's that do 1.47v MM'd (1.489v shown @ cpuz) since day one and they're still just fine. Both of them idle in that voltage too, due to the disabled energy saving features, but that's not such a big deal since the current (A) is relativly low while idling.

Things to avoid while testing: extreme core temps (90C++), extreme LLC settings that skyrockets the vcore on load, and zero airflow around the socket and the VRM circuitry. If you follow the above, you check the maximum temps and you remain under 1.5v (load) you can go for whatever 24/7 freq & voltage cobinations that makes you happy.

Will a 1.5v o/c shorten you cpu lifespan? Sure.
Would it matter if your cpu lived for 10 years as opposed to 15 years? Don't think so :)
 
Back
Top