Should I be concerned when my prometeia reads a temp of -40 and the motherboard reads a temp of -11. Would this indicate a dodgy motherboard temp sensor or poor contact between prometeia and cpu? Also on a side note anyone ever had problems getting voltages above 1.6volts core on an asus p4c800-e deluxe motherboard, mine refuses to boot at higher voltages which is annoying since at 1.6v the motherboard sensor only indicates a vcore of 1.48v.
Motherboard temps!!!
- Thread starter alansd
- Start date
So does +14degrees temp reading off an asus p4c800-e deluxe motherboard temp monitor sound reasonable for a 3.2prescott clocked to 4.075 ghz with my voltage reading at around 1.42 according to motherboard (damn this motherboard sucks, its ridiculous that its unstable at voltages above this and that this is the voltage I get from setting 1.58volts in the bios, undervolting normally and then drooping even further under load.) That is at full load running prime95. I have a mach 2 st cooler and the evap temp is at -23 when running that, cpu 100%load. That doesn't seem reasonable to me surely a prometeia can cooler the cpu more than that?
T
Thickbrit
Guest
What revision is that mobo and what bios do you have on it,my setup is very similar to yours and some of your readings dont seem right,and yes i hate this mobo too,aint stopped cussing it since i got it,i miss my max's.
Not sure what revision the mobo is, I cant really see it on the board now, its pretty packed out in my computer now with the prommy, and tec gpu cooling + meanwell psu and water cooling system, including two rads mounted in the case. I just flashed to latest version bios 1019. I'd be interested in hearing what you got with that mobo, and whether you are having the same voltage problem i'm having being unable to use voltage settings above 1.6v(1.6v really being equal to 1.48 + droop at load.) This really puts the brakes on with my overclock. I really need to get a new motherboard, anyone got any suggests for a good socket 478. I had two max3's which i blew up a while back, but i think i know where i went wrong now, I think I was pulling the mosfet heatsinks of the mosfets when i was mounting the board, so I never really got to see what these boards where capable of. When i rebuilt the computer with upgraded cooling on the weekend i did try and do a droop mod, which wasn't successful, i broke off two of the solder points on the board, so went for the alt location on that resistor. Managed to get it on a couple of times but it kept falling off when i insalled the prommy head unit, sinces it sits over the point where the resistor is on the mobo 
However this issue is nothing to do with my board mods since this issue existed before, I just didn't pay much attention to it before, since the water cooling wasn't enough to justify these high voltages.
Actually cpu-z says revision 1.xx is there a rev 2 or something?
Anyone else on this forum using a prommy on a socket478 board if so which one and hows it working out on that board. I used to swear by asus but this voltage thing is really annoying, i'd like to know if its a common fault or just my board.
I'm thinking that I should undo the prommy head and check to see if theres any as ceramic on cpu spreader since i applied it to the prommy head, then clean it all off and apply a thinner layer, what do you think? Then when i recover from the ridiculous sums of money that i've spent recently I might buy a new motherboard, i'm just not sure whether i should go for the same one or a different one. I think if I got the same one i'd be able to do the droop mod now since I have had practice, I cant do it on this board now cause any more contact with a soldering iron would probably kill it (all the droop mod contact points have seen better days)
However this issue is nothing to do with my board mods since this issue existed before, I just didn't pay much attention to it before, since the water cooling wasn't enough to justify these high voltages.Actually cpu-z says revision 1.xx is there a rev 2 or something?
Anyone else on this forum using a prommy on a socket478 board if so which one and hows it working out on that board. I used to swear by asus but this voltage thing is really annoying, i'd like to know if its a common fault or just my board.
I'm thinking that I should undo the prommy head and check to see if theres any as ceramic on cpu spreader since i applied it to the prommy head, then clean it all off and apply a thinner layer, what do you think? Then when i recover from the ridiculous sums of money that i've spent recently I might buy a new motherboard, i'm just not sure whether i should go for the same one or a different one. I think if I got the same one i'd be able to do the droop mod now since I have had practice, I cant do it on this board now cause any more contact with a soldering iron would probably kill it (all the droop mod contact points have seen better days)
T
Thickbrit
Guest
P4C800's have ovp when used with a prescott,i don't know if it is all revisions,(there are 3 revisions),but some boards definately do,this is what prevents you setting higher than 1.6v in bios,there is a mod.Droop mod is an absolute must on any p4c.Also the st wasn't designed for a display,maybe it reads wrong. Software monitoring of vcore and cpu temps is useless,vcore flux is nowhere near as bad as software says,when measured with m/m.+14 @ cpu,-23 @ head,do not look right and you should check your contact.There are few viable options instead of p4c800 or max3,possibly an ic7 or ic7g,p4p800 or a dfi 875p.The previous loss of your max's had nothing to do with the sinks not contacting the mosfets,had to be something else.If you stick with the asus for a bit,be sure to sink up all the mosfets.I cant get my mobo to do beyond 264 1/1,yet my ram and cpu can do 280 stable,i knew i'd hate it before i got it too.
Just powered up the prommy again for first time today mb temp is at 22degrees was at about 18 when i started up which shows that the room temp is quite low at the moment. Anyways the prommy is saying -45 degrees cpu is saying a more healthy -16 obvious no load at the moment. CPU clocked at 4GHz 285mhz fsb with 14 multi using asus pentium unlock. I'm going to check the stability on this, but this may be my limit for a while. FSB isn't bad ive got corsair ddr550 so memmory is never really an issue. I would like to go higher on the cpu but that might have to wait for a new mobo. The ovp sounds very feasable because its very suspicious how it suddenly cuts out at 1.6v, I may have to go for a less advanced mobo, I really wish asus would let the user decide their own voltages with complete freedom, instead having an option to unlock the safeties so to speak. I would definetly be interested in trying another max cause they have a good rep for clocking, still unsure why two of mine blew up though, one of them almost set on fire, I had sparks and smoke coming out of it lol when I clocked it and then used cpu burn on it. I'm about to complete my computer installation now with last tidying of wires, extra side window, and installation of relay for tec psu, I think i'm gonna have to check the contact on the prommy now just for my piece of mind. If the board wasn't in the computer now i'd probably risk doing the droop mod again, but noway im removing the board now to have another go at it.
Out of curiosity can starting and stopping the prommy a lot as you do when overclocking cause it to heat up above normal levels?
I'll have to post some pics of my rig when its all done, it may not be the fastest computer in the world considering the amount of cooling in their, but at least it looks cool with all the uv and watercooling, prommy, etc.
Out of curiosity can starting and stopping the prommy a lot as you do when overclocking cause it to heat up above normal levels?
I'll have to post some pics of my rig when its all done, it may not be the fastest computer in the world considering the amount of cooling in their, but at least it looks cool with all the uv and watercooling, prommy, etc.
I've took the computer prommy head off and remounted with a copper heat shim to ensure that its making good contact idle temps are now down to -18 which is a definete improvement. Still my motherboard is limitting overclocks and with the water cooling system it would be very hard to get the mobo out for another attempt at droop mod, as well as dangerous because my previous failed attempts have not left the contact points for the mod in good condition. The two on the resistor I have left anyways, the two solder points broke off, lol, and the resistor would surely break off if I tried it again on this board. Oh well i'm out of money now so that'll have to wait a while.
Oh quick tip dont use a criticool power plant ii relay to switch on a meanwell psu, the 30amp in rush current at cold start will blow the fuse on them. I know cause I've blown up two lol.
Oh quick tip dont use a criticool power plant ii relay to switch on a meanwell psu, the 30amp in rush current at cold start will blow the fuse on them. I know cause I've blown up two lol.
D00d 4 things:
First: please split your posts up in to paragraphs as theres so much to read and with it being one block it makes it difficult to read...
Second: Stick your rig into your sig
Third: Is that a prescott your using?
Fourth: If thats -16c load or idle? With a prescott at 1.6v I think -16c is damn good!
First: please split your posts up in to paragraphs as theres so much to read and with it being one block it makes it difficult to read...
Second: Stick your rig into your sig
Third: Is that a prescott your using?
Fourth: If thats -16c load or idle? With a prescott at 1.6v I think -16c is damn good!
I'll have to get round to maiking a sig with my rig specs in, i've been more concerned about putting the thing together recently.
-16 is idle temp for a prescott does fluctuate a little with room temp of course. normally between -20 to -14 it would appear at the moment.
Anyways i've finished my rig now it does look nice i've seen tidier of course but still i think i've made a good job with wires, lighting and fitting in all the components. This is where i'm at now i'll get some pics later.
Hardware
thermaltake shark full tower computer cases modded
asus p4c800-e deluxe mobo
antec 550watt true power with control panel.
3.2 prescott @3.95Ghz prime 95 stable (fsb@282)
asus p4c800-e deluxe mobo
corsair ddr550 xms4400
asus x800xtpe graphics
core@620 mem@605 (-16 to -8 idle depending on fan speed)
2*160gig maxtor drives (raid 0)
sound blaster audigy 2 zs with front control panel
dvd-r (slot loaded) and liteon 8*dvd-rw
Cooling
Mach ii st with usb connection and lcd screen
40mm fan on chipset
80mm uv reactive fan aimed across graphics card and towards mobo on zalman bracket, controlled by antec rheostat
graphics card cooled with copper heat shims on mem and Q172 watt tec on gpu operating at 17.3volt (vmax=24.8)
peltier powered by 150watt meanwell psu
peltier cooled by water cooling system consisting of:
2 thermochill 120.1 radiators
tygon tubing
danger den pump
Tank-O-Matic resevoir
3*120mm fans controlled by rheostat on antec psu
maze 4 gpu tec block and sealing kit
Lighting
4 uv strip lights & 1 uv fan
dark blue uv water die
uv leads and wire sheaving
-16 is idle temp for a prescott does fluctuate a little with room temp of course. normally between -20 to -14 it would appear at the moment.
Anyways i've finished my rig now it does look nice i've seen tidier of course but still i think i've made a good job with wires, lighting and fitting in all the components. This is where i'm at now i'll get some pics later.
Hardware
thermaltake shark full tower computer cases modded
asus p4c800-e deluxe mobo
antec 550watt true power with control panel.
3.2 prescott @3.95Ghz prime 95 stable (fsb@282)
asus p4c800-e deluxe mobo
corsair ddr550 xms4400
asus x800xtpe graphics
core@620 mem@605 (-16 to -8 idle depending on fan speed)
2*160gig maxtor drives (raid 0)
sound blaster audigy 2 zs with front control panel
dvd-r (slot loaded) and liteon 8*dvd-rw
Cooling
Mach ii st with usb connection and lcd screen
40mm fan on chipset
80mm uv reactive fan aimed across graphics card and towards mobo on zalman bracket, controlled by antec rheostat
graphics card cooled with copper heat shims on mem and Q172 watt tec on gpu operating at 17.3volt (vmax=24.8)
peltier powered by 150watt meanwell psu
peltier cooled by water cooling system consisting of:
2 thermochill 120.1 radiators
tygon tubing
danger den pump
Tank-O-Matic resevoir
3*120mm fans controlled by rheostat on antec psu
maze 4 gpu tec block and sealing kit
Lighting
4 uv strip lights & 1 uv fan
dark blue uv water die
uv leads and wire sheaving
standin wave
New member
I is GREEN with envy m8! Not so much a sys spec as a letter to Santaalansd said:
sw
D00d I would say those temps are great for a prescott becuase they are so much hotter than a northwood!
iirc Asus reads temps too high as well so it could be lower.
Sounds like your getting good contact. How many washers you using? I generally add some washers ie add an extra 3 on to the standard ones as this increases down force on the head
Would love to see some pics please
iirc Asus reads temps too high as well so it could be lower.
Sounds like your getting good contact. How many washers you using? I generally add some washers ie add an extra 3 on to the standard ones as this increases down force on the head
Would love to see some pics please
Ok i'm having problems posting the pictures of my new computer on extremeprometeia forum. Very strange surely on the gallery section of the forum you should be able to post a few pictures, perhaps someone can look into that because I would like to post them on the forum. Keeps saying I can't post so many pics but it is a gallery section after all, lol. Anyways you can see my pics posted on this forum page, I think you can view them without being a forum member, its posted on my planetside clan website.
http://www.betas-blockers.com/html/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1277&sid=874ef78c4ffbe54c0605d1f4f50746b8
http://www.betas-blockers.com/html/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1277&sid=874ef78c4ffbe54c0605d1f4f50746b8
