IC-Diamond 24 Carat

It the only thing I have used for person rigs. It can't be spread by normal means just drop the block on it an tighten Er down. Cleans up ok. Stained my raystorm. It has fantastic thermal conductivity according to the stats but it seems to be very limited in stock all the time
 
Be careful when cleaning it off from chip dies such as GPUs and delidded CPUs as it'd been known to scratch them. It's the little (microscopic!) diamond shards that does it. It doesn't break anything, but does leave those tell-tale marks. I use a liquid TIM cleaner to loosen it before lifting with a paper towel.

It's my preferred TIM at the moment, second only to Coolaboratory Liquid Pro, but that mental stuff only goes on lidded CPUs for me!
 
somewhere in the wohle Internet theres a Page to find where People submitted there Experience with that TIM.

I prefer this because this is a very good one...and the only Method you should apply the TIM is the "Drop in the Middle" Version...let the Block do the spreading and all will be good :D
 
somewhere in the wohle Internet theres a Page to find where People submitted there Experience with that TIM.

I prefer this because this is a very good one...and the only Method you should apply the TIM is the "Drop in the Middle" Version...let the Block do the spreading and all will be good :D

Yeah that's what I do but I'm never sure exactly how much to use, Pea size, Rice grain size etc... :confused:
 
Yeah that's what I do but I'm never sure exactly how much to use, Pea size, Rice grain size etc... :confused:

i usually just unload

ZQQ9er4.jpg
 
in fact that this spreads like the Devil S*t i give him what he needs to. So Rice Siced i wouldn do it...go with more so that the TIM spreads nice and even..hopefully^^

Oh and Picquote: In another Fact with this TIM...if you ever get the Ammount of this on the CPU...you definitly need a new Hand or something like an anDroid device ^^
 
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Knowing how much TIM to use comes with experience; applying and removing lots of heatsinks and water blocks.

The Coolaboratory Liquid Pro needs to be spread around, and a lot of patience. If you've ever messed around with mercury you'll know what I mean :)
 
I've always had a kind of 'procedure' for Tim'ing stuff and it's never failed me with AS5 (will explain in a sec), I've since moved to Coolaboratory liquid ultra, scary stuff but god damn is it good, so long as it never, ever ever touches Allu it's fine :)

With regard none 'diamond' Tim's, Back in CM's heatsink *hayday* I followed one of their techniques and it's never failed me :) It's based more towards none-lapped surfaces.

Step 1 ) apply very small amount of paste and spread it, rub into all the nooks and crannies, wipe off but don't *clean* the surface, you'll see it's tinted (grey in most cases) that's good, that's EXACTLY what you want the stuff to do, fill all the microscopic inperfections

Step 2) do the same on the cpu

Step 3) Apply a small amount to cpu and spread evenly/thinly, granted, there's an art to this so you don't create pockets of air but I find it to be better than chucking a blob on and hoping it spreads properly.

Step 4) Chuck the CPU through a few heat cycles to bed-in the paste, that was always key to AS5 and sorted out any imperfections as it would effectively re-seat itself I guess?

Why don't I follow the 'grain of rice size blob and squash it' method?

The viscosity of most TIM's means it takes quite a lot of pressure to make that little blob spread out to the entire surface it's required to cover, and I've always been cagey about pressure on CPU's since I came into the game in the bare core days of Athlon cpu's.

I know some people think you don't need to cover the entire top of the cpu lid, due to placement of the cores, which is fine. But if there's contact area to be had, I'm sorry but I'm using it. The more contact you have between *smaller surface* and *bigger surface area* heatsink the better, creating any kind of 'hotspot' on the CPU lid to me just seems daft. *shrug*

All my opinion, but maybe I'm a bit oldschool... *shrug* it's never failed me up until now!
 
Wow SuB now that's an in depth way of applying TIM ^_^

My own personal method is heating up the TIM by putting the tube half submerged in a glass of hot water, Not boiling though.

While that's heating up I clean both CPU and heatsink once more with Arctic Silvers ArctiClean kit and then once more with iso, Then wipe it once more with a microfiber cloth.

After 5 minutes of the TIM heating up I then spread it out using my finger in the corner of a clean fresh zip lock bag and then clean up the edges using a very thin piece of metal very carefully.

The end result is always akin to this picture although mine tends to look a little neater :)

Tahna-1.jpg
 
Well I have used the 7 carat tube of this thermal paste and yeah it does scratch if you just apply your TIM cleaner and wipe.
Apply a few drops or more of your TIM cleaner and then wipe, also there is no point using this stuff on old consoles as there is not enough tension between the chip and the bog standard cheap-o heat sinks that they used in the old Xbox's.
In my experience as this is now my htpc running a Western Digital 1TB green hard drive. :)
But the temps are great, I've also used this on my xfx radeon hd 5870 and it gave me a nice drop in idle and under load temps.
 
This is with Arctic Silver 5, I re-applied it every week to see if I could get any better temps and this time left it on for 8 days, This was the best result I could personally get -

vbLhw8M.jpg



And this is with IC-Diamond 24 Carat after 6 days -

5ihtQ2u.jpg
 
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Why are you comparing IDLE temps? And AS5 has a break-in period of about 200 hours, so you would probably see a drop of a few more degrees.
 
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