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Old 22-02-18, 06:15 PM
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Layer Cakes Layer Cakes is offline
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SLI connector disaster

So.. This happened.


System was running fine, literally happened while I was downstairs making a sandwich, this is what I came back to. System had continued to run until it shut itself down.

It's all just push fit, so I can see how it could just pop off with enough pressure but surely this shouldn't happen?

Obvious not tried anything yet, but water got all under the back of the GPUs and in the PCI-e sockets, so I really wouldn't be surprised if atleast something is dead.

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Old 22-02-18, 06:20 PM
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That is bad... Dry everything the best you can. You can wash it with isopropyl alcohol, and leave it for at least 2 days to dry out before trying to start again. I hope nothing died. Good luck.
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Old 22-02-18, 06:22 PM
Bartacus Bartacus is offline
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I can't see the pic from work, but that sounds awful. Hopefully we'll be calling you Lucky Lucy from now on, if nothing fried! Fingers crossed!
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Old 22-02-18, 06:31 PM
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AlienALX AlienALX is offline
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Really sorry to see this Lucy. I absolutely hate seeing things like this.

Just another reason for me to avoid Alphacool. How can you have a GPU link that doesn't screw onto or into the cards, FFS?

This is also why I won't go hard line, because I don't buy this push fit nonsense. It's like those old snap together models, they were crap too.

I would be straight onto Alphacool in all honesty. This shouldn't happen to any one, at all, even if they were a pure 100% noob. Stuff like this can be dangerous and really needs to be completely fool proof. I'm not calling you a fool or a noob, I'm just saying this stuff should be over engineered to s**t so stuff like this can not happen.

Seriously if I could help you out I would, but I haven't ran SLi since Titan Black in 2014 so never water cooled more than one card.

It reminds me a lot of my GPU block tbh. It has a port thing that bolts on with two long bolts..



I remember reading the manual and it showed you how to do SLI. Bolted on, of course.

I also remember once looking at some Alphacool stuff and tbh? it was identical to Phobya crap. That is why I avoid them now. I am not paying top dollar for budget WC parts.

Edit. In fact, looking at my card again you wouldn't even need a SLI block. You would just link those end blocks through in/outs.
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Old 22-02-18, 06:38 PM
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Layer Cakes Layer Cakes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlienALX View Post
Really sorry to see this Lucy. I absolutely hate seeing things like this.

Just another reason for me to avoid Alphacool. How can you have a GPU link that doesn't screw onto or into the cards, FFS?

This is also why I won't go hard line, because I don't buy this push fit nonsense. It's like those old snap together models, they were crap too.

I would be straight onto Alphacool in all honesty. This shouldn't happen to any one, at all, even if they were a pure 100% noob. Stuff like this can be dangerous and really needs to be completely fool proof. I'm not calling you a fool or a noob, I'm just saying this stuff should be over engineered to s**t so stuff like this can not happen.

Seriously if I could help you out I would, but I haven't ran SLi since Titan Black in 2014 so never water cooled more than one card.

It reminds me a lot of my GPU block tbh. It has a port thing that bolts on with two long bolts..



I remember reading the manual and it showed you how to do SLI. Bolted on, of course.

I also remember once looking at some Alphacool stuff and tbh? it was identical to Phobya crap. That is why I avoid them now. I am not paying top dollar for budget WC parts.
My previous EK blocks used a similar connector, but with a bolt go g through it to hold the connectors on.

Even if you aren't using SLI but want the in and out to come out the sides rather than the top, you nerd to use one of these push fit connectors. So not just an SLI issue. I've sent a message to Alphacool on facebook as they seem to be pretty responsive there. I'm not expecting much more than a sorry and maybe a 10% off voucher or something naff though.

I'm pretty sure the CPU and RAM is ok, but potentially £500 of hardware may be dead here.
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Old 22-02-18, 06:57 PM
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Kei Kei is offline
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I had a similar level of water leaking all over my cards after having a hose pop off a barb on the cpu block which dowsed my gpu, motherboard sound card and power supply with about half a litre of coolant. Like you, I was also briefly AFK at the time it occurred. This was taken after I'd dried most of it off. There was a lake in between the backplate and the gpu pcb. Most of the PCIe sockets on the motherboard were filled too.


Mine was running unigine heaven, stress testing at the time too. Luckily, all of my hardware survived and is still running to this day. I stripped it completely bare, rinsed off the coolant using a small quantity of IPA and then put all of the parts into the oven at 50 for an hour. (plate warming mode)

Do not dry it off using towels and reassemble as it still sits underneath surface mount components, particularly BGA parts like memory modules. The IPA helps shift it and the baking ensures that what little may remain has definitely evaporated.
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Old 22-02-18, 06:59 PM
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I would probably have a stroke if that happened to me lmao. God, I'd so be boiling

This is why I avoided water cooling completely until two years ago (42!). I know disasters are rare but I am a friggin disaster magnet ffs lol. Dianoga leaked three times before I got some decent fittings.

Edit. You guys do realise that you need a pressure release fitting in your res, right? Air expands when it gets hot..



See that clear plug with what looks like a hole in it? that is a pressure release valve. I didn't know this until my mate Gareth educated me.
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Old 22-02-18, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layer Cakes View Post
So.. This happened.


System was running fine, literally happened while I was downstairs making a sandwich, this is what I came back to. System had continued to run until it shut itself down.

It's all just push fit, so I can see how it could just pop off with enough pressure but surely this shouldn't happen?

Obvious not tried anything yet, but water got all under the back of the GPUs and in the PCI-e sockets, so I really wouldn't be surprised if atleast something is dead.
Welp.. f**k. Looks like everyone is having bad luck this week Time to get it all stripped down, cleaned and in the oven. Hopefully it's not RIP for anything
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Old 22-02-18, 07:18 PM
MadShadow MadShadow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlienALX View Post

Edit. You guys do realise that you need a pressure release fitting in your res, right? Air expands when it gets hot..
Eh pressure relief valves are mostly seen as unnecessary, considering that manufacturers take this small amount of pressure into account when designing watercooling gear. Also, a valve in the loop would help reduce the pressure when the system is warm, but create a vacuum when the system cools (as the air cannot reenter), so you'd just have the same problem with pressure but reversed. So the idea that all loops require such a pressure relief valve isn't exactly correct.
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Old 22-02-18, 07:22 PM
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AlienALX AlienALX is offline
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Eh pressure relief valves are mostly seen as unnecessary, considering that manufacturers take this small amount of pressure into account when designing watercooling gear. Also, a valve in the loop would help reduce the pressure when the system is warm, but create a vacuum when the system cools (as the air cannot reenter), so you'd just have the same problem with pressure but reversed. So the idea that all loops require such a pressure relief valve isn't exactly correct.
My (you guessed it) Alphacool bay res leaked all over the place. From the top cap.. I never knew, because it was hidden under another res but when I did some maintenance on it last year there was red powdery residue all over the top of the res. Problem with bay res is that you can't put in a pressure valve because there is nowhere to put one where it would not just squirt fluid out.

That was cooling a stock Fury X. Nothing else in the loop, monster 120 rad about 70mm thick.

It will also depend on the coolant you use and etc. Now? I leave my res cap off for a few hours. Just to make sure there are no bubbles, because obviously if you purge them into air space that is already full you are going to create pressure. More than just normal pressure. Wait until all of the air is purged, it's had a chance to expand and contract and then put the cap on.
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