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  #11  
Old 30-07-14, 12:55 AM
RadeonHDx RadeonHDx is offline
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Originally Posted by Wraithguard View Post


Or add in a separate block into your loop
Unfortunately I'm using a H60 however I could rip out the tubing and just set it up as a custom loop as I don't really mind that because it only cost me £35 .

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Originally Posted by Xrqute View Post
In no way being an expert on the subject but it sounds somewhat similar to a phase changer.

Am I thinking along the right lines?

Gotta say this stuff is pretty cool I like learning about some of the more obscure approaches other enthusiasts experiment with.
I'm not actually too sure other than they're both in the same kind of region of extreme cooling.

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  #12  
Old 30-07-14, 01:07 AM
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I know a phase change suffers from the same condensation issues.

I'll look up the particulars one sec.

Also I made a few edits to my last post you may not of seen.
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Old 30-07-14, 01:26 AM
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I'm sure that using lacquer would actually work well I would have thought and I know that someone here on the forum (really sorry, it was a while since I've been on) has spray painted a full mobo in white paint and not even had any problems with heat!
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  #14  
Old 30-07-14, 01:40 AM
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I couldn't find details on how a phase changer works exactly but I did find instruction on how the recommend you insulate your board. Hopefully they are some help.












Phase change cooling is an interesting concept -- A phase change is a change of the state of matter, like water to steam (or ice), or amorphous (non-crystalline) to crystalline, or vice versa. But how can this change of state be used for cooling, you might ask.

Vaporization requires the input of heat energy. Our bodies use this as a mechanism to remove excess heat from ourselves. We sweat, and its evaporation requires heat input, i.e. the excess heat from ourselves.


Diagram showing the three states of a matter


The Prometeia use the evaporation of Freon, and more specifically Freon r134a, to remove heat from the processor, where the Freon is condensed in the condenser in a process, which releases heat energy.


There are four steps in the cooling cycle of a Freon compressor based solution -- compressor, condenser, capillary tube, and finally the evaporator that sits on top of the processor.


The four-step cooling cycle

What actually happens is that the gaseous Freon is sucked from the evaporator, into the compressor. The compressor increase the pressure to the condensation pressure of Freon, and the phasechange takes place –- the Freon changes state from gas to liquid.

The condenser, an inline radiator, gets rid of the heat generated by the evaporator and during the compression of the Freon. By now, the Freon is completely liquefied.

The capillary tube is a small diameter copper tube acting as a valve to lower the pressure. This capillary tube is important for the refrigerant to evaporate at such low temperatures.

When the refrigerant has passed through the capillary tube, it reaches the evaporator. The pressurized liquid expands inside the evaporator and changes state from liquid to gas. Now, remember what I said about vaporization requiring input of heat. The vaporization process inside the evaporator “consumes” the energy from the processor, and the processor is cooled down.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Peltier Cooling- to much info to link

http://ixbtlabs.com/articles/peltiercoolers/
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Old 30-07-14, 02:03 AM
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Thanks for all the info! I'm going to start off by messing around with the peltier just playing and seeing if it will freeze water and how much heat/cold it creates as I have one ordered and scheduled to be arriving tomorrow. I'll first try with an old 755 system that just barely still runs and experiment with temperatures and voltages to see what makes it cold but not too cold so that it creates loads of condensation.

I was also wondering if I could just use something so simple as blu-tac to insulate the mobo and possibly just make the whole of the block and socket area completely insulated from the rest of the board.
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  #16  
Old 30-07-14, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by RadeonHDx View Post
Thanks for all the info! I'm going to start off by messing around with the peltier just playing and seeing if it will freeze water and how much heat/cold it creates as I have one ordered and scheduled to be arriving tomorrow. I'll first try with an old 755 system that just barely still runs and experiment with temperatures and voltages to see what makes it cold but not too cold so that it creates loads of condensation.

I was also wondering if I could just use something so simple as blu-tac to insulate the mobo and possibly just make the whole of the block and socket area completely insulated from the rest of the board.
Well blu-tac is puttyish..... But i don't know how it'll stand up 1. to the cold 2. the constant water.

you seem like the type who likes to experiment, So test the blu-tac first soak it the freeze it rinse repeat half a dozen times and see what sort of condition its in. i think it would completely lose its adhesive properties and maybe go crumbly. but try it and report back ill be interested to see your results.
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  #17  
Old 30-07-14, 12:58 PM
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Ill get some blu-tac, a bowl and make a little pool of water and make the blu-tac as a kind of barrier to simulate ho well it will prevent leakage from around the socket and report back with my results later .
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  #18  
Old 30-07-14, 01:13 PM
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You might want to watch this.

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  #19  
Old 30-07-14, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wraithguard View Post
You might want to watch this.

I had actually seen this video already which was where I got the idea of putting grease around the socket but he didn't really provide any sort of resolution to the problem of the condensation forming. In addition to this I have noticed that next to noone has a peltier in a normally orientated case meaning that I will most likely have to either buy a new case, run my rig on the desk again (would rather not tbh) or find a permanent solution to the condensation problem.

An idea that I have had recently is that I could just use some grease or neverwet to isolate the socket and then build a wall of silicone around the socket area which will force the peltier aswell as the H60 to be permenantly attached to my motherboard with my 8320 underneath!
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