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  #21  
Old 06-04-13, 01:37 AM
airdeano airdeano is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kei View Post
Bleeding is taking forever.
the rad lower than the pump/res will make it hard to bleed. if you can pull
the pump/res out and lay the case back, it'll help a lot to relieve the
pressure in the lower rad and burp the air blockage to the GPU.. then the
upper rad...as long as the res is higher, the air will work towards the res.

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  #22  
Old 06-04-13, 09:09 PM
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Kei Kei is offline
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Cheers for the info. Gave it a lot of moving around, adjusting the pump speed and shifting the pump angles which finally dealt with the remainder of the air.

I've put it all back together now, sadly somewhere during the process my ancient enermax fan controller has gotten damaged and fan 1B no longer functions. Some sort of fault in the potentiometer. (pressing it in makes it work, but as soon as you let go it stops again) So I am a fan down on the EX rad. The other case fans need to be run off voltage reducers as the motherboard seems to want to run them all at full chat. (it is enabled in the bios, but i reckon only 2 of the headers are speed controlled) I've got a trip back into the loft now to find three speed reducers and my zalman fanmate. Gives me an excuse to get a better unit next month though. (suggestions are welcome)

Idle temperatures with two of the case fans off and the one rad fan off and the rest running silently is 37 degrees for the cpu and 41 for the gpu. Not run anything yet but I reckon load temps will be greatly improved.

Here are some better photos. The completed loop. You can now see all the connectors on the HDAV H6 daughter board hiding underneath the essence ST. (this is what uses that ugly ribbon cable)


The hidden mess of cables isn't quite as bad as it was before. Lots of green cable ties. (not sure why i chose green but just went with it. Not that you can see any of them) Coolermaster grommets for the holes will be ordered next month.


The aquacomputer aquagratix block is very smart, just wish they did a backplate for the 6970 like the one they have for the 7970.


The alphacool XT45 is a very tight fit up top. With some severe difficulty, i can just about manage to remove the memory without needing to shift the radiator.


So, next on the agenda is:

1. New fan controller as the enermax is on its way out (it is about 8 years old now)
2. 2x gentle typhoon AP-15's for the bottom radiator
3. 2x 140mm case fans. Should be BeQuiet silentwings USC's to match the side panel but they are insanely expensive. Probably end up with 3x of something else that cost less but match.
4. Braid the unbraided cables. Might consider bitfenix alchemy extensions for some of it.
5. Get a 2TB+ hard disk and migrate current drives/partitions across. Also considering getting an icybox backplane so i can fit more drives into the 5.25" bay.
6. Replace integrated reservoir/D5 top with a tube and separate top to make things tidier
7. May well consider changing the XSPC EX for a thicker unit like an alphacool UT60 or a monsta.
8. Fanless or superquiet seasonic psu
9. Replace dominator ram with another pair of hyperX genesis to match or replace the lot with something superior and give me 16GB. (got 12GB presently)
10. Migrate to an X6 thuban or steamroller when it eventually rolls out
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  #23  
Old 06-04-13, 09:11 PM
SeekaX SeekaX is offline
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please get sleeved cables, or at least black ones, the cabling makes it look so awful
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  #24  
Old 06-04-13, 10:42 PM
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andrevautour andrevautour is offline
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I like the look of all the parts used (tubing, res, blocks etc) and I like the blue. The blue fins on that deep cool fan are nice. Good looking system.
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  #25  
Old 09-04-13, 06:24 PM
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Kei Kei is offline
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Changed the TIM from arctic silver 5 to prolimatech PK1 and got a fair change in temperatures.

Before


After


Not entirely sure why, but I had similar improvement before whilst using air cooling. Thought i'd give AS5 another go this time around. The contact patch was fine too. I think I need to improve my case airflow though as ambient temperatures inside the case rise into the 30's. This is how i have the case fans set at present. Blue arrows show intakes, red show exhausts. (I know it doesn't help that no two case fans are the same, but that will be sorted, hopefully going to 140mm fans all round)
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  #26  
Old 09-04-13, 06:33 PM
airdeano airdeano is offline
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just for giggles, for better cool flow, reverse the floor fans from push to pull.
yes its pulling air into case (heated) but not as well to immediately take the front
air intake and exhaust it. plus the area under the case is too close to properly
ventilate (30mm minimum)

all lower fans to intake, all upper fans to exhaust (or delete the rear fan, all
together), all side-panel as intake.

that'd make 5 intake and 3 exhaust
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  #27  
Old 09-04-13, 08:08 PM
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badtaylorx badtaylorx is offline
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ive given up on Teflon tape tbh...ive had the stuff end up in a cpu block once and one time i had a alphacool top leak with that stuff on....

after stopping the use of that stuff....never had a leaky fitting since!!! just make sure your o-ring is o-k


Great looking for your first att. btw.
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  #28  
Old 09-04-13, 08:21 PM
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alpenwasser alpenwasser is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdeano View Post
(or delete the rear fan, all
together)
Only on a computer forum will people delete fans

Quote:
Originally Posted by badtaylorx View Post
ive given up on Teflon tape tbh...ive had the stuff end up in a cpu block once and one time i had a alphacool top leak with that stuff on....

after stopping the use of that stuff....never had a leaky fitting since!!! just make sure your o-ring is o-k
Yeah the only leaks I've ever had in 10 years were related to cracked tubing. The PUR stuff that used to be popular in German speaking circles for push fittings was stiff to begin with and would become brittle over time. Once cost me 4 brand new HDDs (shorted out a SATA controller circuit on my M/B ). Luckily, I could RMA 3 of them (4th had private data on it, couldn't risk that).

But the O-Rings on my fittings have always done their job.
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  #29  
Old 10-04-13, 12:09 AM
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Kei Kei is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdeano View Post
just for giggles, for better cool flow, reverse the floor fans from push to pull.
yes its pulling air into case (heated) but not as well to immediately take the front
air intake and exhaust it. plus the area under the case is too close to properly
ventilate (30mm minimum)

all lower fans to intake, all upper fans to exhaust (or delete the rear fan, all
together), all side-panel as intake.

that'd make 5 intake and 3 exhaust
Will give this a go once i sort out which fans to go with for the case. I'm going to sort another pair of scythe AP-15's for the bottom radiator. The case fans will be 140mm for the front and side panel. I intend to have a matching set of 140mm fans all round, but not sure on what to choose as scythe still don't make a 140mm GT and slipstream/kaze fans are sleeve bearing.

Any suggestions for a decent 140mm case fan? I've been looking at Noctua NF-A14 FLX (£19.25), Gelid Wing 14 (£15.75) and the corsair AF-140 (£9.91). I already have a bequiet silentwings USC which is no longer available, superceeded by the silent wings 2. (18.99)
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Seasonic Prime 750W ⁞⁞ Polaris 961 256GB ⁞⁞ 850 Pro 512GB ⁞⁞ M500 240GB ⁞⁞ WD Se 4TB & 1TB x2 ⁞⁞ HP LP2475w + Dell 2408WFP
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  #30  
Old 10-04-13, 04:36 AM
airdeano airdeano is offline
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if you are looking to the Ap-15, swiftech has a helix 140 that is a match to the
AP-15.. here is the link--> LINKY
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