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  #31  
Old 04-04-19, 08:27 PM
tgrech tgrech is offline
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If you wanted to could you sound proof a pump(Wrapped in material)? Never watercooled myself so no idea if those things get quite hot or something.

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  #32  
Old 04-04-19, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Bartacus View Post
Oh I know, not hating the DDC dude. I just prefer the reliability (and lack of PCB that needs to be cooled) on the D5. I also don't mind the hum of D5's running at full blast. You can't really lose with either pump.
Both are designed to run in professional 24/7 applications. They should last for years, given that they pretty much float without friction in water. The impeller has a water bearing basically, so there is pretty much no wear.

Very clever are water cooling pumps, just don't run them without any water in them lol.

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If you wanted to could you sound proof a pump(Wrapped in material)? Never watercooled myself so no idea if those things get quite hot or something.
The top side is water cooled. The back of the motor does get hot though, hence the alu body kit thing. That has a heat pad that goes onto the back of the pump's PCB. The D5 doesn't run anywhere near as hot, but as stated the DDC will perform better in high wattage variants so with the performance comes the heat.
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  #33  
Old 04-04-19, 08:44 PM
Bartacus Bartacus is offline
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The heat generated by the D5 gets put into the coolant (mostly), where the heat generated by the DDC is mostly externalized via the controller PCB, and needs a heat sink, good air flow, etc.

I don't think anyone has tried sound dampening a pump these days, since you can get PWM variants now that make them quiet enough for even the pickiest noise freak. Heck even an old school D5 'strong' fixed speed pump isn't that noisy, creating more of a vibrating 'hum' than a loud whine. But it's a hum you can hear across a quiet room.
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  #34  
Old 04-04-19, 08:45 PM
FTLN FTLN is offline
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Just had a little scribble in my notepad, trying figure how many fittings and also I want a drain tap, so if my counting is up to scratch I need :



12 x fitting (counted 10 + 2 extra just in case )
1 x T fitting to make a drain plug, any ideas how to do this ?

Any recommendations for tubing size ?

Also, I cant for the life of me find anywhere the size of the fittings I need for the GPU Block:

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  #35  
Old 04-04-19, 08:50 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Originally Posted by Bartacus View Post
Hmm, interesting, but that bolded stat is only a head measurement and doesn't take into account loop restriction, so I find that a bit odd. I've only ever used D5s, and have never seen a flow rate that high even in a simple loop. But I'm also using impeller-based flow meters, so I don't know how accurate they are.

Either way, sorry if I came off like a d!ck ther Warchild, I just re-read my post and I didn't mean to come across so adversarial. Having a cranky day.
Nah you never come across like that. Debate is all it is even I get this wrong too. This is why I love the DDC. And I use two lol.




That GPU block is probably G1/4 as are nearly all fittings now.

Depending on the Tblock, you may need additional fittings to screw in each side. If Alien doesnt beat me to it, I'll try and scribble something tomorrow. but do you plan on using a basic block with stopper to drain, or do you plan to use a proper valve like this?



Already the money is mounting up hehe.
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  #36  
Old 04-04-19, 09:01 PM
Bartacus Bartacus is offline
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What you need for the GPU is stop plugs for the unused ports (not sure if that's what you mean by fittings). Or did the Barrow block come with some of those?

All fittings have a G1/4" thread on them, and that thread pattern is common in every piece you buy (rads, pump tops, blocks, etc). You just need to pick your tube size, and get the same size fittings. Warchild mentioned 10mm/13mm on page 1, that's the size I use (also listed as 3/8" x 5/8" for other brands fittings). You can bend the heck out of that size tube since it has a nice thick wall.

Just be sure of something, if you go with EK tubing, get EK fittings. If you get other brand fittings (Barrow / Bitspower / XSPC), do NOT buy EK tubing. EK tube won't fit on those other branded fittings *properly* since they do their sizing in metric, while Bitspower, XSPC and others aren't. I have a mish mash of 3/8 5/8 fittings that won't work with EK soft tube. It will fit, but you won't be able to tighten the compression collar. FYI, just ran into that recently.
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  #37  
Old 04-04-19, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by FTLN View Post
As this thing sits vertical in my Thermaltake View 71 its litteraly 7mm from the side panel and this as we all know temps suck with GPUS pushed right up against the tempered glass.
Have you taken into account that you are going to have to turn the water direction? like, fit both fittings into the back of the GPU where there is not much space?

I think you'll find you need more fittings than you allocated. This is what I mean....



See how both of the fittings in the GPU have to be in 90' rotaries? so not only do you need a fitting per hole, but you also need a 90' rotary.



You also need two plugs for the back side, if Barrow didn't provide any.



Now you could just buy 90' rotary fittings (that go straight onto the tube) but yeah, you now need to move onto phase 2 of planning and that is direction. Remember, a fitting just literally sends the hose out straight and the chances are you're going to need to turn it. You are never, ever going to fit that into 7mm. So you now need to take tolerances into account. IE - measure the back side of your GPU to make sure you have enough room to fit a 90' fitting behind the card. You're also going to find that a sod, because the back part of the card will likely get its flow from the CPU block, and if it's tight back there you could even find yourself ordering a new case..

That's the thing with water cooling. In the rare case that people buy a "kit" and throw it all in it looks like ass with hose running all over the place. Doing it tidy? that's the art.

Personally I would order what you listed, but just know you'll be spending at least another 100 euro on top of that to make it actually work.

The more homework you put in now? the easier it will be. As I said though, do totally expect to get stuck and be ordering more parts and waiting for them to arrive. I ended up using a buttload of fittings to make my loop look so tidy. I also had an issue where this.



Was running into a fitting due to the way I decided to use the pump top (side load)



So the solution was this, costing me a whopping £18.



Which handily goes around the T shaped bulb part (like they didn't know when they designed it lmao)

You will no doubt end up with a pile of spare fittings at the end. I also wanted my hose to curve up before going to the GPU, so that meant another 90' fitting.

It was worth it though, I will say that.

Edit to add. I also used about five 45' fittings to make sure that the joins between the rads and res were as clean as possible.



That is from another one of my rigs. I was using 19mm hose, so it had to be aimed perfectly or it kinked.



See what I mean? it's things like that which cost you the cash dude. As I said though, totally worth it. It will last through every upgrade you ever make.
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  #38  
Old 04-04-19, 09:28 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgrech View Post
If you wanted to could you sound proof a pump(Wrapped in material)? Never watercooled myself so no idea if those things get quite hot or something.
They get incredibly hot. Some pcbs are known to melt



Anyways. Alien made a good point. Your GPU is vertical so you will need rotaries to help you.
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  #39  
Old 04-04-19, 09:44 PM
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I would personally turn the rads around so the fittings are closer. That way you don't have to run a big long hose all the way along the rad itself. It's cleaner to go from the rad output to the CPU block.
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  #40  
Old 04-04-19, 09:46 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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I would personally turn the rads around so the fittings are closer. That way you don't have to run a big long hose all the way along the rad itself. It's cleaner to go from the rad output to the CPU block.
Yep, also helps bleeding.
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