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  #11  
Old 11-01-20, 06:58 AM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excalabur50 View Post
This is really bloody clever might have to steal this idea for my HOTAS!
Go for it. Copy with pride

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  #12  
Old 11-01-20, 09:27 AM
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Excalabur50 Excalabur50 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warchild View Post
Go for it. Copy with pride
Thanks buddy I shall!
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  #13  
Old 03-08-20, 04:19 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Originally Posted by NeverBackDown View Post
That's what I was thinking would be next. A way to put them a little more out of the way.

I'm wondering to if maybe making it from a 3D printer would work as well... Not sure if it would be strong enough
Was browsing my old posts to find some info i needed for another person then remembered this comment.

Gave me a lightbulb to give it a go. One downside to my current mounts are the space they take up. Very annoying to try and tuck them away. So decided inbetween changing the layout of my pc, id give this a shot.

Now I have a 0.2nozzle and 0.4nozzle, I can toy with accuracy.

One thing in the past I noticed is that precision with the default nozzles can be very hit and miss. Especially since PLA when cooling contracts and can pull things out of alignment. Often models walls will prevent that, but when you are building 2 models which should align, it can be a pain.

Spent last few days chatting with Dice about this and putting something together. I wanted to opt for a desk clamp but all my ideas meant it became to large and bulky or just not strong enough. PLA is strong for sure, but with enough force it will still flex "slightly" meaning your strong clamp on the desk can come loose over time.

That means, I will go for a permanent mount underneath the desk as before, but small, light weight, and allow the main hotas mount to be removable.

Draft 1 ended up looking like this.

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  #14  
Old 04-08-20, 03:16 PM
NeverBackDown NeverBackDown is offline
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Glad my comment sparked that lightbulb. Looking forward to your projects as always
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  #15  
Old 04-08-20, 07:19 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Originally Posted by NeverBackDown View Post
Glad my comment sparked that lightbulb. Looking forward to your projects as always
Going to try to drop the idea of pins and switch to magnets.
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  #16  
Old 05-08-20, 08:45 AM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Just did a basic magnet test. Printed two blocks and inserted magnets half way through the print.

My plan is to replace nearly all the pins above with some good Neodymium magnets. The guesstimate now is how thick to build the PLA walls between the magnets. I don't want it too strong as this will probably do soft damage over time with the contacts. But also can't be too weak that they fall apart from navigating the hotas stick to its extremities.

So far a 2mm wall seems to be ideal.

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  #17  
Old 08-08-20, 04:45 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Well the design is now finished. Next step is the printing phase. I need to check which layers will cover the magnet holes, so I can pause the print, drop the magnets in and let the printer continue with the models like before.



In the wireframe view, you can see the interior sections where the magnets sit. I opted to put a 3mm wall between each model so the magnets are not too strong.




My only issue now is the hotas plate. its slightly more than my printer max size
225x185 vs 220x220 of the printer

I picked up Simplify3D and i was able to create a custom print bed allowing me to get the full dimensions. I just need to learn how to script the slicer to pause at a certain layer now.


Its strange that Ender quote the Ender 5 pro only allows 200x200x300 when I have already printed a frame that was 235x235. It wasnt even a stretch. It handled the excess size very comfortably.
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  #18  
Old 18-08-20, 04:29 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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Its been really fun printing the parts for this. Its not quite its final form though but
certainly getting there.

Added a script into the print code so that it paused at two specific layers allowing me to drop two magnets in. Then it simply continued to print over them.


This one will be used for the top plate that will come later as soon as I can figure out how to print it efficiently


Once I got to my second pause, I popped in the magnet that will attract the main body



Moving on to the rear main body. I had to print everything in sequence, in order to make sure that the magnets were orientated in the correct direction for strong attraction.



This one shows a single layer of plastic printed over it. Didnt stick hence the low quality layer, but it did not have any issues with laying it down luckily, so later layers simply corrected any flaws.







After many many hours of tweaking and adjusting, I finally finished one side. I went over the top on accuracy i.e. printing slow, with very thin layers in order to ensure all the holes aligned. Next time I will push it faster, but here are the results.


All of these can literally be thrown into a small box and stuffed in a drawer. And take up "far" less space than my original wooden mounts.

I also designed my own Gnurl grip head which I left blank so I can reuse for any future projects I want and add different lengths and/or threaded type variants.




These are the only pins that I had to print. The two long ones are to attach the shaft to the desk itself, and two shorter ones to adjust the height of the hotas body.

I also added two blanks, that I can insert above and below my chosen height. It allows me to remember the same position next time I reassemble it. Saves time fiddling trying to find what height I had it at before.



And here it is assembled


I was dreading alot of flex given the weight and length, but I am surprised its very rigid! It would be a problem if the body is mounted much lower. The shaft does flex a bit too much, but I have a fix for that coming later.

The four recesses are magnetised ready to attach the plate to the top, and 4 smaller holes are to allow a longer bolt to attach the Hotas to the mount itself.
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  #19  
Old 18-08-20, 04:34 PM
Warchild Warchild is offline
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To put in perspective the time for this (excluding design and refinement)

Desk Shaft - 11hours
4 corner wings - 5 hours each
Rear body - 9 hours
Front body - 10.5 hours
Rectangle blocks to fix to desk - 2 hours each.
Pins - about 40mins each

These done at a 0.1mm layer, 40mm/s speed and 0.2mm nozzle for accuracy.

I think switching out to a 0.4 nozzle and doubling print speed could easily have this made 200% faster. My worry would be accuracy of hole alignment and hole diameter.
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  #20  
Old 18-08-20, 11:25 PM
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Kleptobot Kleptobot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warchild View Post
To put in perspective the time for this (excluding design and refinement)

Desk Shaft - 11hours
4 corner wings - 5 hours each
Rear body - 9 hours
Front body - 10.5 hours
Rectangle blocks to fix to desk - 2 hours each.
Pins - about 40mins each

These done at a 0.1mm layer, 40mm/s speed and 0.2mm nozzle for accuracy.

I think switching out to a 0.4 nozzle and doubling print speed could easily have this made 200% faster. My worry would be accuracy of hole alignment and hole diameter.
I have done some 3D printing but am more familiar with mills and other CNC cutting systems.
Don't 3D printer tool path generators do 'tool diameter' compensation for the nozzle size so that the accuracy doesn't change with the nozzle used? I would have thought that nozzle size would be fairly easily compensated for.
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