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Old 11-05-19, 12:44 PM
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AlienALX AlienALX is offline
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USB overload?

I don't use my PC very much now. I've come to realise that the meds are making me lose interest in things that I would normally be completely obsessed with. I don't game much any more either, and I now have a plethora of ways to game when I feel like it and the PC is the least comfortable (even though it's very comfy).

Any way, I kinda did this build as my last hurrah really. I've not really upgraded the low down hardware in almost two years and I can't see myself doing so any time soon. But, I do have a problem.

OK, so when I did the build I was put off of buying anything new hardware wise due to the lack of sparkle. IE, even 18 months after I last upgraded (14 core BE Xeon and Titan XP) there was absolutely no point in replacing a single piece of it. In fact, I bought a 16gb quad kit to upgrade it to 32 but ended up removing it as I didn't even need the RAM.

As such I decided then that I was going to stuff as much techy stuff into the build as I could. However, it didn't all go smoothly because I am left with an issue that I can't seem to fix.

When I initially booted the PC for the first time as it looks now nothing was working on the USB at all. I hot plugged the main connector for the USB to the mobo header and I got a message in Windows stating that my USB bus could not provide enough power. This was no surprise, given I have at least 6 internal USB devices that were split over two USB hubs (AC Hubby 7). In order to get the USB to work I needed to disconnect the clock (and power it from the 5v rail) and something else I have forgotten now. That got it to recognise the internal USB stuff OK. I also bought a large hub but that does not work properly. In fact, if I connect my keyboard to it (Huntsman) I end up getting about 20 letters for each one I type. It absolutely has to be connected to the PC. The same goes for the mouse...

Any way, as I said I removed a load of stuff (like DACs, Blue Snowball etc) and it behaved well. The keyboard has settled nicely and in about 40 hours of using the PC has ghosted once.

However...

I now have a boot issue. I press the power button on the PC and the USB system inside the case (vents, lighting etc) flares up the vents and does its show off thing. However, I then get a white light on the monitor indicating that it has a signal. Problem is? it then sits there for about two minutes before I get my BIOS splash screen. I have noticed that the sound card (external USB Xonar U7 MK2), keyboard and mouse all light up immediately. The things that do not light up immediately are the mouse pad (Steeseries RGB ) and the Asus Centurion 7.1. It then sits there, as I say, for about two minutes and then finally the mouse pad and headset do their thing and I am then in Windows instantly. No surprise there, as I have a Intel NVME drive.

The thing is? last week it booted immediately. There was no hold up over the USB.

Is there any way to fix this? I highly suspect that the entire USB system is woefully overloaded, thanks to me basically adding asses to my monkey. Like, lots of asses.

I just wondered if there was a BIOS setting or what not that could aid? or a way to add power to the bus to take the strain off the mobo? The Hubby 7 hubs have SATA power going to them, but it's obviously not enough. Once I am in Windows? the PC is a flying machine.

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Old 12-05-19, 10:11 AM
robbiec robbiec is offline
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Perhaps try swapping out the Hubby's temporarily and see if you nail it to them, then a chat with AC?
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Old 12-05-19, 10:16 AM
tgrech tgrech is online now
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You could maybe try using a USB multimeter, you can often grab them for £5 or less on Amazon or eBay, I recommend getting one with a bit of cable though as they're quite awkward and oversized. This way you can check the current load at each point, remembering a normal USB2 max draw is 0.5A and for USB3 0.9A. You could also check the voltage for drops, technically the minimum voltage allowed from a USB powered hub is 4.35V but then it's 4.5V for a standard PC port, though any really dips from its non-load state could indicate issues.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/YOTINO-Volt...JH6AEZXXST796Q
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Old 12-05-19, 11:36 AM
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AlienALX AlienALX is offline
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I did the calculations for it when I built it. The Hubbys have a rating but are power assisted.

I think I may be following the wrong trail tbh.

The reason I say that is because since posting this I remembered something from ages ago. I used to have a Crosshair Formula Z with an FX 8320 and it too used to take an age to boot. Not only that, but nine times out of ten it would boot into BIOS. It's a good thing the board had a "boot now" option (I forget what it was called) where instead of resetting when you exited it allowed you to boot on.

Any way I tried everything I could think of and in the end gave up. I then gave the PC to my ex's daughter's BF (nice kid) and ran him through getting it to boot. Any way he phones me and says it's not doing it any more since he got it home. The only difference? He wasn't using the Alienware TACTX USB keyboard I'd been using. Which was, as chance would have it, the only thing I didn't try because it just never dawned on me that a KB would cause the issue.

I'm starting to think now that I'm not seeing an overload issue but more of just something that drags its heels when booting. Possibly because it's in need of a firmware update (ROG headset is my main suspect) or, that quite simply it "is what it is" and there's nothing I can do about it.

Thankfully win 10 seems to monitor the bus voltage, and as I saw before will simply drop devices when it senses an overload. And besides, it's never happening in Windows.

I think the next time I'm at the PC I just need to suck em and see, and remove them one by one until it doesn't do it.
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