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  #1  
Old 12-04-10, 01:31 PM
rrjwilson rrjwilson is offline
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Just for a laugh :D

My mini firdge has gone up the duff and having some spare peltiers and a 360W psu means I thought it would be fun to "pimp" it from 40W to 120W

Of course with some cutting, banging, crashing and swearing it sees temps only just below ambient because the cooler is cast aluminium and tiny. More heat away from the hotside means lower temps coldside and because the thermal load is negliable because its a fridge I can get closer to the 69dT quoted. I have 18A of 12V goodness and 120W TEC so how do I cool the hotside instead of using the crappy aluminium thing, I hear you cry.

Coolermaster Aquagate R80. A "self-contained" watercooling system powered by a fan connector.

Bought some 5 years ago for my Athlon XP based shuttle it has been sat doing sod all since i upgraded 4.5years ago So now, in the timely tradition of OC3D where cooling excess is necessary I'm smacking, cutting, filing and soldering this bugger together just for poo and chuckles.

It wont be the perfect peltier system but with no thermal load it should kick the crap out of what it used to do. I will update with pictures when the dremel is charged

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Old 12-04-10, 01:55 PM
AMDFTW AMDFTW is offline
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cant wait to see it fella
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  #3  
Old 13-04-10, 07:22 PM
Pseudonym Pseudonym is offline
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Good man. This is exactly what we need more of.

Happy modding
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Old 14-04-10, 12:12 AM
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thestepster thestepster is offline
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cant wait to see this mate should be great
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Old 14-04-10, 05:44 PM
killablade killablade is offline
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This one should be worth watching
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Old 14-04-10, 07:26 PM
Ducky Spud Ducky Spud is offline
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Haha, at first I was thinking "oh, here goes anothe guy wanting to use a fridge to cool his pc", but are you actually just trying to make a really cold fridge/freezer by watercooling the pelt? Thats a quality idea if Ive got it right hahaha
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Old 14-04-10, 09:52 PM
FarFarAway FarFarAway is offline
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TTIUWP tbh
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Old 14-04-10, 09:58 PM
mrapoc mrapoc is offline
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awesome....front page plz if it works out
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Old 25-04-10, 10:18 PM
rrjwilson rrjwilson is offline
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Ok so before I put up the photos of the peltier that was so brittle it snapped upon removal and the smegtastic build I thought I'd put up links to the parts so people can see WTF I'm bodging.

Coolermaster Aquagate R80



12V/240V Mini Fridge (mine is red and at least 8 years old)



Also being used are an old shuttle PSU (yes, the standard one) and 136W peltier from the ever reliable eBay.

Now peltiers bought from reputable manufacturers come with datasheets so you can work out what is need for the best operation mine of course did not. I have plenty of juice on the 12V rail to do 136W but I doubt the 136W is rated for 12V as most peltiers are max rated at 14-18V. I'm guessing it should hit about 80-90W at best but thats ok given its in the fridge and not seeing a heatload.
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Old 26-04-10, 01:02 PM
rrjwilson rrjwilson is offline
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Okily dokily. Here are your pictures (Kempez :P).

This modification is about as difficult as braiding (time consuming only) so most will be able to do it without even a slight problem. Peltier maths and physics are all over the web so what I will say is that Vmax and Imax are what the ratings are done at so if you use less your output will be less.

My peltier is 136W if that is 12V rated (doubtful) then I need 14A to supply it properly (I have 18A). If as I suspect it was rated at 15.4V then I only need 8A so I'm well clear. The watercooling takes 3A in total (including fan) so I'm still within my PSU limits.

To connect the fan to the power supply you need to know what to connect. 3-pin fans you must connect the Red wire to your +ve, the Black wire to your -ve and the yellow wire is the RPM sensor so leave it alone. 4-pin fans you must connect the Red wire to your +ve, the Black wire to your -ve, Yellow wire is the RPM sensor so leave it and the Blue wire is a control wire for PWM signal control of the fan so leave this too.

The Aquagate pump/block has a 3-pin fan connector so do the same to it as above.

Peltiers have red and black wires, they do produce better effect when used as red to be +ve that is why they wire them that way. When using them for the seeback effect this can change but we ain't doing that so don't care. Once again Red wire to your +ve and Black wire to your -ve.

So far so good and easy, this next part you will actually have to try for. PSUs have all the information you need so you can do everything easily. Leave the PSU for a few days disconnected to allow it to discharge.

*POWER SUPPLY UNITS ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS DOING THESE MODIFICATIONS ARE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. I AND NO ONE ELSE ON OC3D ACCEPT LIABILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE, HARM, DEATH FROM DOING THESE MODIFICATIONS.*



In this picture you see the PSU PCB with all the outputs labelled nice and clearly. We only want the +12V, PS ON and Gnd so the rest can be cut off or desoldered. The PS ON wire allows you to switch everything on or off, you can add a switch or just solder it to the Gnd.



In this picture you see my wires connected to the +12V (Red) and Gnd (Black). 10A wire and 18A possible so two wires are used to create the connection from PSU to accessories. Notice two wire on both +12V and Gnd that is because there is 18A going through the entire circuit (YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED).



In this picture you see the power connections simply soldered to everything Everything that is +ve is together and everything that -ve is together. Now the only point I will stress is that before you seal you peltier down, check which way it needs to be. Power it up for 2-3 seconds then turn it off and feel (with one finger) a surface, if you luckily chose the cold side to touch well done put that side against the inner part so the chamber is cooled, if you got a stinging burn (no worse than soldering iron) sorry thats the hot side so put your cooling parts on top of that. Technically peltiers need about 200lb/in2 of pressure for optimum but as long as its tight it will work respectably.



My masking tape radiator holder.



The brittle peltier that clearly burnt out.

When i find my temp gauge I'll post a temp in this post. I used to get cold stuff but no dew or frost so here is hoping.
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