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Old 04-01-10, 06:16 PM
Hemicuda Hemicuda is offline
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Need to identify a psu !

Maybe not as straightforward as it might seem....

A little while back I picked up a system at auction-mostly packed with parts from the same timeframe

EVGA 680i SLI, nVidia 8800 Ultra, Barracuda 7200.7, E6750 cpu, Gigabyte 965P-DQ6 (toast) with Crucial RAM.

And a power supply....that someone had attempted to mod...badly

The PSU case has been removed (crappy unfinished plexiglass sort of enclosed it when I got it)

The psu has very little in the way of stenciling or identifying marks

Its (fixed) connectors seem pretty standard - 1 x 24pin (with breakaway 4 pin), 1 x 4+4 EPS 12V, 1 x 4pin EPS 12V, 2 x 6+2 pin PCIe, 2 x 6pin PCIe, 6 x SATA, 6 x Molex, 2 x Fdd. Cables are mostly sleeved black mesh and have blue UV plugs attached (looks like a kit as is only 24 pin and molex).

The main capacitor is branded TK ( Google says Toshin Kogyo) LG (series?), 450V 2E (working voltage?), 82,0 micro farad- dimensions are roughly 25mm diameter x 50mm height.

I took a chance and hooked up the PSU to a throw together system and ran OCCT. Voltages all tested ok (3.3/5/12v) in test and in mobo BIOS. Ripple is a little more pronounced than I have in my Corsair HX1000 but not to bad.

The only other markings of note I can see in the PSU are on the rectifiers but I would need to remove the heatsink assembly (2 plates-1 full length of PSU, other is 3/4 of the length shaped like a comb with very wide "teeth") and move wires around to view them.

Does anyone know how I could find out what this PSU is using the combination of cables, capacitor and if need be, rectifier bridges?

Cheers in advance for any suggestions.

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Old 04-01-10, 06:21 PM
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Rastalovich Rastalovich is offline
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Ugh, tricky thing about this is that many psus are badged by 1 manufacturer but made by another.

Jim is the in-house expert on these things atm, but he's gonna be pretty much up to his eyes in site stuff right now.

I'd be trying to source the pcb more than the components, particularly something like an fcc number, model number, serial or similar.

Ofc for a forum, pics will help a bunch.
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Old 04-01-10, 06:40 PM
lasher lasher is offline
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There a particular reason why you need to identify the psu?
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Old 04-01-10, 07:45 PM
Ki113r Sp00n Ki113r Sp00n is offline
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you never gonna find out what that is cuz the specs on it are pretty much standard unless you can get model num of pcb board
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Old 04-01-10, 09:33 PM
killablade killablade is offline
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I'm guessing you want to know the wattage it can handle?
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Old 04-01-10, 11:58 PM
Hemicuda Hemicuda is offline
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Thanks for the replies.

The PCB itself does have some very small numbering but nothing definitive-unfortunately whoever tried to mod (butcher) it has laid what appears to either UV or holo lacquer or paint on the edges and area's of the pcb are are easily accessible-complete with paintbrush hairs!

Yes, killablade, got it in one. Looking to find out how I can determine it's rated output. I can probably measure it's power draw from the wall socket but I don't fancy risking a shedload of components in the attempt.

I figure with the 4 PCIe connectors that the PSU is likely SLI/Crossfire capable (if not certified) so would be of a reasonable wattage/amperage, and to be honest the main reason for finding out would be to use in a system build for sale- but I won't be doing that until I find out what I've got- I'm an amateur system builder (around 40 systems) but have learned by the mistakes of others regarding using unbranded no-spec PSU's.

Many thanks, and I'll try to get some detailed pic's up of the PSU.
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Old 15-01-10, 05:16 AM
Hemicuda Hemicuda is offline
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Success!

After some considerable time, a bottle of enamel thinners and a LOT of cotten buds I managed to clear enough of the PCB to make out the model number OP-850 which corresponds with a Silverstone model of the same name (Olympia series). Now all I have to do is make sure I've neutralised all the thinners I've applied and search for a defunct PSU so I can rogue the casing.

Many thanks Rastalovich- I was planning to leave the PCB as removing the lacquer was going to (and proved ) a royal PITA.
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