Originally Posted by name='Toxcity'
I don't quite understand how heating up the GPU fixes it... :eh:
But I don't think you would see me opening the new Gen consoles.. not yet..
Basically, the GPU is a surface-mount device. It's a sub-assembly of components mounted on carrier. The carrier is a bit like a c2d processor, no pins underneath, just pads. The pads are tinned during production, as is the main board, then they are wetted together, usually with hot air, but it would probably be one of the earlier components fitted.
The fault arises when the whole lot gets too hot and the main board warps.
This can crack the solder joints, causing the 3 lights of doom.
The hot air gun re-works the joints together. You just have to be careful that you don't over do it and also protect the bits that melt. I had a close call with the sync button that started to melt (need more foil!)
Lots of people have fixed their 360 by chucking the x-clamps and bolting the heatsinks on in a more conventional way. The x-clamps do not place enough pressure on the heatsink, but the bolt down method does, plus in most cases, it's forced the broken connections together again.
I arctic silvered the h/s and then bent the x-clamps to give a bit more pressure, and that sems to have done the trick.
The other big problems is that most of the cooling air is sucked through the processor, not the gpu. This is caused by the air taking the least path of resistance. Although there are two exit fans, the duct is common and so the gpu gets very little air flow through it. A simple divider between the fans, in the duct, fixed that. The air exiting the case is now very hot and as they say, 'better out than in now'.